I am in the process of installing the co-pilot module. I was just wondering were everyone runs the wire inside the cab that connects to the co-pilot module? I have a 2003, and the connector is so big that I don't know where to fit it through the fire wall at? I was thinking about drilling a new hole to run it through, but I don't have a groomet to seal it up.

If anyone has pics or advice I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks

Best way, but time consuming, that I have found is too carefully label the pin locations and then remove them from the body, shove the harness through and then reassemble, this will keep the hole smaller

hi eric: do you feel we need to add the co pilot with our suncoast level 4, i was told the co pilot will add close to 300psi to any of the cpacs when told to and holding them together better when serious power is made(like in the higher 700hp)

i was also told the suncoast raises the psi pressure as well, any idea how much pressure on the c4,c5s , thanks fred




Best way, but time consuming, that I have found is too carefully label the pin locations and then remove them from the body, shove the harness through and then reassemble, this will keep the hole smaller

Crank it Up Diesel pushed the big grommet out of the way and just ran it in beside it. Works fine for me.

Crank it Up Diesel pushed the big grommet out of the way and just ran it in beside it. Works fine for me.
:exactly:

grommet idea works, but it wont seal back up and water will follow down that harness and right through the firewall..

Its easier then the hole in the firewall though....

Fred, co-pilot testing is underway. Suncoast only changes overall line pressure, trans go changes the clutch pack pressures, co pilot changes.......?

grommet idea works, but it wont seal back up and water will follow down that harness and right through the firewall..

Its easier then the hole in the firewall though....

Fred, co-pilot testing is underway. Suncoast only changes overall line pressure, trans go changes the clutch pack pressures, co pilot changes.......?
Oops there's my SoCal roots showing through again. I have no clue what it is like to live in real weather.

Hasn't Joe figured out what the CoPilot does yet?

You mean he didn't have one on display at his open house?

There is a snow plow grommet that can be purchased from GM. You just drill the hole and then you can run all your go fast wires through it too. PM me and i'll send you the p/n for the grommet, if you do a search you can find pics of the hole location and possibly the p/n too. I can't give you the p/n tonight as I am at work and the grommet is currently sitting on my desk at home.

You mean he didn't have one on display at his open house?If he did, nobody paid any attention to it as we were all huddled around the TTS convereter):h :lol: :joke:

If he did, nobody paid any attention to it as we were all huddled around the TTS convereter):h :lol: :joke:
:lol: Good one!

Okay, I have another question about the co-pilot now. I basically have it hooked up except for the wires that are for removing the speed limiter, and the wire that is soldiered on to the back of the dash gauges. Is the light on the co-pilot suppose to blink the whole time it is one? It is not the slow blink like when it is in the sub leve, it is a faster past blink and is kind of annoying. Also I couldn't get the co-pilot to go into "drag race" mode. Is that because I don't have the wire hooked up on the dask gauges?

Thanks for the help

Yes on the dash hookup and you dont need the speedo if you are planning on doing some other programmer method. The dash hookup is how it knows it is T/H mode. Dash install is easier than it sounds but you will need a souldering iron. The blink is line pressure it goes away when you put your foot into it. How is the tranny prepped?

I did not plan on hooking up the speedo override, I already have a programmer for that. I do have an iron I can hook the wire up to the dash, I just haven't had time to yet, and it said in the insturctions you don't need it installed unless you want the drag race mode to work correctly.

So the light will only blink at an idle? Does it blink no matter what settings it is on? That little light is pretty annoying at night cause it is so bright, I might have to put the co-pilot in a hidden location.

What year is your truck. The 01-02 clusters are much easier to solder than the 03 and later. Basically in the 01-02 clusters you actually have a pin to solder to. The 03s only have a drop of solder on a circuit board.

I ruined my first one.:eek:

Trippen, glas to see I wasnt the only one!.. I tried on an 03 to solder it.. didnt work. A simple switch to ground that wire works just fine for me

Trippen, glas to see I wasnt the only one!.. I tried on an 03 to solder it.. didnt work. A simple switch to ground that wire works just fine for me
Wait, so just grounding that wire will lock it and rock it? :eek:

So instead of soldering the wire to the gauge cluster you can just wire it through a switch ground source? Flip the switch on and it works the same way as pushing the tow/haul button? I have an 03 so I dont really want to accidently mess up the gauges. I think I might try your switch method if it works the same.

Thanks

yes, much easier for me at least

yes, much easier for me at least
So basically, activating the switch will lock it. Does it work in both normal or tow/haul? Will it kill the engine if you forget to flip the switch and come to a stop or is it speed dependant?

the switch would be just like hitting the t/h button

I think a switch for it would look great in a SoCal Diesel O/H mount!

So if you switch the gauge cluster wire then do you even need to put the truck in tow/haul if you flip the switch on by itself? Say like when you want to put the co-pilot into drag race mode, what would switching the tow/haul on as well have any advantage of fliping the switch and leaving tow/haul off?

tow/haul and switch should be used togather.