My goal for sometime within the next 20,000 miles or so is to find an injection pump core and have it rebuilt for about $210 and keep it on hand until i need to replace the existing one, and then do the work myself.
A friend of mine with lots of mechanical experience, especially working on p-30 step vans like mine, often walks me through repair work over the phone. But he keeps telling me forget about trying to replace the IP pump myself - forget it! he says over and over, it's worth the $400+ in labor costs to have someone do it He says if you drop a certain bolt while taking the old one off, then you have to remove the whole front of the enigine, etc.
Anyway, am i a fool for thinking, every time he tells me forget it, that i will learn how to do it anyway? Bascically, is this a do-it-yourselfer type project or something for a skilled mechanic?
any advice?
thanks,
Paul

You're talking about a regular step van right? Big doghouse that you could nearly pull the engine out through? If this is what you have, go for it. These are almost easier than the trucks are. I can't even think of a hard part. If this is your first time, put a full day aside just in case, and take your time, but I can't see you having any problems. It can be done in ~2hrs, but don't try and set any records ;). Who are you planning to get the pump from anyway?

If your talking about a regular van, then you don't want to mess with it, trust me!

Hey texas, thanks again!
yes, regular step van with big doghouse.
So you would remove the IP from inside of it, rather than from the hood?
I don't know where i am going to get the core from just yet (do you know where to get a deal?). I believe the IP i have was rebuilt some time before i bought it, so i think i have some time. But i do know that i put some abuse on it while converting to run on svo, do to some miskakes i made,etc. So i am planning ahead a bit here.
thanks,
Paul

Replacement would be a simple job for me, but I sure would not trust one or maybe two of my four son-in-laws without standing over them. Re-installing the injection lines on the pump is the hardest part and it is critical since if they leak it is very difficult to tighten them after the manifold is installed. It can be done, but difficult!!!!

I would suggest you get a 6.2L shop manual, tools, and a good torque wrench. And there is not a magic bolt to fall in unless you are careless after removing the pump from the mounting. Just follow the manual instructions!!!

You might find a used pump for $210, but you will not get a quality re-built pump from a quality rebuild shop for that amount. I believe in the old saying "if it is not broken then don't fix it". On the other hand, I do perform preventive maintence, i.e., I replaced my mechanical fuel pump and water pump before I headed to Alaska since we were going to Deadhorse, Alaska over the Dalton Highway.

$400 in labor is ridiculous for a step van, hell even a passenger van I don;t charge that much, only a few dollars more than a regular truck.
But I doubt you will find any rebuilt pump for $210, did you just pull that amount out of a hat and say 'thats what I'll pay and not a penny more'?
They sell for close to $500 around here, rebuilt and calibrated.
Now if you want to poor boy it, and build it yourself on the kitchen table, I will tell you the BASIC kit is only around $30, but you will not make a good working pump with just that kit, there are tons of other 'hard parts' that need to go in it, and it won't be calibrated. but I have seen it done plenty of times before.
Brian.
(damn, come to think of it, the one on my 6.2 was done a few eyars ago, and never calibrated, maybe thats why my mileage dropped to just under 20 recently)

My goal for sometime within the next 20,000 miles or so is to find an injection pump core and have it rebuilt for about $210 and keep it on hand until i need to replace the existing one, and then do the work myself.
A friend of mine with lots of mechanical experience, especially working on p-30 step vans like mine, often walks me through repair work over the phone. But he keeps telling me forget about trying to replace the IP pump myself - forget it! he says over and over, it's worth the $400+ in labor costs to have someone do it He says if you drop a certain bolt while taking the old one off, then you have to remove the whole front of the enigine, etc.
Anyway, am i a fool for thinking, every time he tells me forget it, that i will learn how to do it anyway? Bascically, is this a do-it-yourselfer type project or something for a skilled mechanic?
any advice?
thanks,
Paul

thanks for the replies.
what i meant was that there is a place that charges $210 to do the rebuilding service of the IP - it is called accuratediesel.com and i believe they are good. That would not include of course the cost of finding a used one to use as a core for rebuilding.
Paul

Here's a core for you... good price.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7953852893&category=33553&sspagename=WDVW

Re-installing the injection lines on the pump is the hardest part and it is critical since if they leak it is very difficult to tighten them after the manifold is installed.Easiest way to solve that problem, and the easiest way to do the job period is to remove the pump with the lines on it, swap them to the new pump and then put it in.

Texas diesel guy:

What I am talking about is getting the unions torqued on the pump before installing the manifold. I don't know how I could tighten the lines before I installed the pump unless I had a jig replicating the engine as those lines do not like to move. A beginner will have more problem with the unions using a crow foot socket than an experienced mechanic. And once the manifold is on then the problem is compounded if a leak develops.

I replaced a pump without any sign of a leak on the lines. We left on a trip and 125 miles later I smelled diesel when we stopped. I got out my flashlight and there was the top injector line leaking at the pump. I backed the union off and hand tightened the union with no more leaks during the trip. The bottom line would have been much more difficult and even more so in the dark!!!

Grease Fire, the bolts your friend is referring to are the three bolts that hold the IP driven gear to the pump shaft flange. If everything is right in the engine, the bolts will have a hard time falling down inside the engine and ending up in the pan. Remove the rubber grommet that seals the oil fill tube and you will have the best access. If you are careful when taking them out and "catch" them in a magnetic 13mm socket, no problem. I've found them in the pan upon disassembly of engines over the years and they didn't cause damage, but I wouldn't bet on it. Be careful, Fred