Ok now i know i dont have a pic, but its night out and i dont have a flash on my phone. right next to the t stat there is this thing that looks like a bleeder valve. i was thinking that it was for bleeding out the coolant. i let the truck run until it got warm and then opened it. turns out it has nothing to do with coolant. im thinking its for the fuel. when i crank the truck no white smoke. now the truck wont start. it stalled out after i opened it. i have no way of repriming the system as i crawled under the truck and seen that the lift pump has been bypassed when the new fuel lines were put in. any ideas would be great. im think of just spraying it with starting fluid, and hoping it starts back up..................thanks:eek:

Yep, it's an air bleed. Your '91 has a fuel filter mounted behind the air intake, and an auxillary fuel bleed valve. Since your lift pump is not operational opening it caused your fuel lines to fill with air.

You only have two options really: You can fix your lift pump (good idea - while the engine runs fine without a lift pump, injection pump life goes down somewhat). Or you can attempt to bleed it out using a combination of air pressure and cranking... Look in the FAQs for information on how to use air pressure to bleed the system. It may take quite a bit of cranking to finish the bleed procedure without a lift pump though...

ok everything i typed in to search in the faq keeps coming up no results. i dont think its working right now, how do you use air pressure ? just pressureize the tank???

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=87582

that should be the one your looking for. high sierra is right, fix the pump when you can and you'll save yourself alot of headaches

Change the lift pump, if ya wanna read a bunch of threads on it search in the 6.5 section, same concept.

dont you have a electric fuel pump on it stock not a aftermarket from factory my 91 2500 c code extended cab has one on drivers side by door inside frame rail where fuel lines run it is a inline electric fuel pump if you have that set up to bleed air out of lines and filter it is very easy you dont hafto pressure bleed it. under hood on passingers side firewall there is a black cover with 3 nuts holding that cover on the inside there is a yellow fuse i think it is a 20 amp it is in a black plastic cover take fuse out of black holder and with fuse still hooked in wires. take and look where the number on the fuse is where it reads 20 on each side there is a little hole where a little bit of the fuse pokes out take that part and ground it to any of the stud in that area and that will turn on the electric pump let it run for a few seconds then stop. crack open bleeder on filter housing and you will get a little air out close bleeder ground fuse again you may hafto do this 3-4 times until you get all air out you will know when all the air is out when you crack open bleeder it will be under pressure and it will shoot a streem of fuel out when it does that you are thruogh. get in and start it up leave key off when doing this it dont hafto be on either. that is how i bleed my filter when i change it. i wish i had pictures to show it would be easy to understand what i am saying. hope this helps

mine's still has the mechanical pump on it. I think is has to do with what they were in more than anything. '91 with the '87 engine design.

When I ran out of fuel (one time!) I just took the line off of the tune can filter, and primed it from a cup. Hooked the line up, and she fired right up. I did crack the bleeder valve on the top of the filter.

Tee in the front is for water drain from the bottom of the filter . Air bleed should be on the top on the filter housing .

I'm assuming the"tuna can filter" you mean the CDR. than would be the same as putting fuel right down the intake

i did get it running, i ended up using starting fluid to do it though. i think that im missing some stuff, i dont even se were the fuel filter should be like everyong is talking about. as far as the lift pump on the frame rail , it bypassed when the new fuel lines were put in. can anyone shot me a pic of what the fuel filter looks like and where it should be. thanks

Depending on your year , it should be rectangular on the firewall or round and right behind the intake manifold down between the cylinder heads .

Actually, in this case it would be the box style, but in the engine valley behind the intake where the early round style filter was. It looks like metal box, pull the air cleaner and you can't miss it.

Replace that inline lift/transfer pump-my '93 had a dead one when I bought it due to a bad oil pressure switch-it became EXTREMELY hard to start below 50 F.-now it starts almost instantly, even below 10 F.!

like some others said my 91 gmc the filter is a box style mounted in the valley of the engine mounted on the back of the intake under air cleaner there is 2 snap clips that hold it on my old 85 chevy was a box style mounted on firewall passingers side and we also have a 81 chevt that had 2 filters they were round like a oil filter one was mounted on firewall passingers side and the second was mounted on back of intake in valley and that was a small round filter that one was a real s.o.b. to get off "serviceonsite" you were saying that the pump on the frame was bypassed is there another pump somewhere or did they bypass it because it stopped working when my electric pump stops working i change the oil pressure switch and the pump is back the oil pressure switch turns pump on. your pressure guage in your dash may work just fine but it wont turn on electric pump. if you dont have some kind of pump pushing fuel to inj. pump you are putting stress on inj pump it will draw fuel through lines and run but it will be a little slugish and when electric pump is working you will feel the difference at least i can on my 91 my trans also shifts a little funny not smooth hope this helps