MarvelFan
05-14-2008, 03:19 PM
i have noticed recently that braking is not what it should be and any time i touch the pedal its acompanied by a nice howling. i know i drive hard and brake harder, but 50k miles seems a little unexpected to me. i called up my local parts dept. and they wanted $300 for pads alone!! i checked and i can get pads for around $150 from an aftermarket company. i checked ebay and they have a set of rotors and semi metallic pads for 3500 trucks for just over $300 but i think they are for the dually trucks...
if i was to order the 2500 set would it be the same components i need for a 3500 SRW??
Would you guys replace the pads only or replace the pads and rotors??
ap_coach
05-14-2008, 03:21 PM
replace pads, have rotors turned at the local shop...
MarvelFan
05-14-2008, 03:30 PM
if i have to turn the rotors i'll just replace them because the cost is close... might as well go new.
heres the ebay item:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy-Silverado-2500-03-04-05-D-S-Rotors-Brake-Pads_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQihZ012QQite mZ220232836047QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy-Silverado-2500-Drill-Slot-F-R-Brake-Rotors-Pads_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQihZ014QQite mZ330234721705QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
and the 3500 set...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy-Silverado-3500-Drill-Slot-F-R-Brake-Rotors-Pads_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQihZ011QQite mZ320249609973QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
mule21
05-14-2008, 04:07 PM
If you are going to repalce pads use the factory ones , pay a little more but better in the long run... Ive got 70% left on the front and rears @ 68k , im still trippin.
good luck
ray4224
05-14-2008, 09:38 PM
i just did a brake job today at 36k. the fronts were fine but the rear rotors were destroyed. all the chrome came off and the look like scrap...dunno what happened.
heymccall
05-14-2008, 09:44 PM
For all of you with 2500's and 3500's with brakes worn out or wearing funny before 100k miles, read post #7 here http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146597&highlight=another+soft+brake.
This is all you need to do to inspect the brakes for maintenance (at least once a year) and the steps to prevent premature failure again. Don't let the title of the thread throw you. It is "how to maintain proper brake function, and prevent noise, rotor delamination, rusting of the sweep contact area, and lastly, a soft brake pedal feel".
MarvelFan
05-29-2008, 10:41 AM
so i threw a new set of rims and tires on and noticed its both rear rotors making noise for some reason... seems coincidence that both rears would be siezed... ideas?
foreman00081
05-29-2008, 10:58 AM
so i threw a new set of rims and tires on and noticed its both rear rotors making noise for some reason... seems coincidence that both rears would be siezed... ideas?
not uncommon at all, siezed slide pins are your problem, did you read the post above your last one? heymccall gave you a link to all the info you need, go read it, he knows what hes talking about when it comes to these brakes.
MarvelFan
06-04-2008, 02:03 AM
so... on the highway tonite and the petal goes right to the floor with just a light touch. tried pumping them and light as a feather. i was able to downshift and come to a stop to inspect and see my resivoir and master were completely drained. the passanger side rear caliper exploded and leaked all the fluid out. not sure if it was a heat related failure sue to the siezed piston or what but a bad situation got even worse. luckily i was the only one in the vehicle because it could have ended much worse.
ANY idea if GM Powertrain covers calipers?? Powertrain is described as entire system of transmitting a system of travel to the surface... braking would be an integral part i would think. I have 50k miles... im hoping it can be warrantied... thoughts??
MarvelFan
06-04-2008, 12:22 PM
upon further inspection the back side of my passanger rotor completely desinigrated and the drivers is down to about 1/16"...
heymccall
03-11-2009, 11:39 AM
upon further inspection the back side of my passanger rotor completely desinigrated and the drivers is down to about 1/16"...
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=277348&highlight=rotor
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c201/john_bud/Truck/CIMG3710.jpg
BTW, I do not endorse the use of slotted rotors, but Cougar GT-E picture kinda REALLY shows us why proper fit and lube of the hardware and pads IS VERY IMPORTANT.
Especially with all those buses running around full of nuns (if your brakes are questionable, what else would you have pull out in front of you?)