Why is it that you have to install the studs before installing the head?

Is it going to hurt anything if I set the head on the gasket and pins and then install the studs?

Studs or bolts? If you're talking bolts I only put 1 bolt in the head (the passenger side rear one)you cant remove it or put it back in usually, it hits the firewall and didnt want to smash the firewall. I used a piece of rubber hose with a slit in it about 1 1/2 " long to hold the bolt flush with bottom side of head to install the head and just used the pins, then just took the hose off the bolt.

Usually installing the studs before the head allows you to set the installed length of the stud easier. Studs should have a minimum depth of the threads that go into the block. Bolts that length is pre-set 'cause of the bolt head. You could install studs with the head on, double-nut on the top and measure the installed length to get the proper thread depth to screw it in.
Don

Obviously he must have the motor out. Although I've only done the heads on my 94 3500hd stock , I can't imagine putting the heads on with studs in first.

Engine is still in the truck.

I am putting in head studs - hence the title.

Its just that every time I have seen installation instructions for head studs it seems as though the studs must be installed before the head.

Like I said, atleast with my truck I don't see how there can be enough clearance to get the head back on. Maybe the directions are assuming the motor is out?

Chris,. remove 1 head bolt at a time,. use plenty of sealer and install the stud,. i,ve done it twice,. a sbc,. and a 5.7 olds diesel,. both times were successful,.some studs come with allen key to install them,.torque each one down as you do them,. no need to for new gaskets,.
nick

You can do that Chris, but various other engines are blind-hole - the deck-holes in the 6.5 are open-ended into the water jacket, so you'll need to get the exact depth of the several stud-lengths by:

- comparing each to the head-bolt from that location so you'll have the general depth of the hole thru the head, see if the studs are meant to thread-in up to where the threads stop on the shank

- then installing each stud to correct depth in the deck, marking each so you'll know it's location and so you'll know the correct depth with the head on

- lay the studs out so they're generally positioned as installed to prevent any mix-ups

- install the head, seal the block-end threads if not pre-sealed, run each stud down to the premarked depth, let the sealer set-up so the stud will not turn during torquing

- then go on with the oiled head-washers and nuts

- take your time, do it right the first time, cause it's gonna be a bear to get it back apart without moving the engine forward

Chris, I'm sure you're aware of this one, but on the odd chance your not - on the pass. side the bottom bolt in the back don't want to come out to easy as in not much clearance. In fact when I pulled the head, thats when that particular bolt came out. Some thing to concider with the studs. Personally I would rather yank the engine out, do the work and then put it back in.

So - if the headbolt measures 5" for argument's sake from the end of the bolt to where the head starts then I need to have at least 5" of the stud screwed into the block?

I don't have time to screw this up and do it again.

Thanks.

So - if the headbolt measures 5" for argument's sake from the end of the bolt to where the head starts then I need to have at least 5" of the stud screwed into the block?

I don't have time to screw this up and do it again.

Thanks.
I think your on the right track.
When you pull a head bolt out, use the double nut method to make the stud the same length as the bolt you remove.

measure the top of the head where the bolt goes to the bottom then the gasket thickness that is basic bolt length that you have to have to make it to the block. put that much head bolt in the block now you will know how much thread you must have in the block see how you studs compare they should be long enough that they bottom out on the threads and still get a full nut on them. thats the way I have always seen studs anyway.

make sure you put them in the right way most of the time the nut end is longer and the other end is tighter or more thread contact area

you sure can put the head on first if you where the studs have to be for length.

There are two holes on the passenger side rear that will give you problems, rear bolt on bottom row and middle row. After you remove your head bolts, before pulling the head, just take one of your studs and see which holes give you problems. On those hole
I started the nuts on the two studs and stacked about six washers under them to keep the stud from hanging out the bottom of the head.

HTH