MY wife will not let me make my own Bio. She did 2 hours of research today and said one it will void the GM warranty and I have 92,000 miles left on the warranty.
Second, she says the longterm affects on all hoses and seals will ware faster cause of the methonal.

Comments please.....

As long as you wash the bio it takes the extra methanol and lye out of the finished fuel. I have been running homebrew for 32K now and no problems. I say go for it, $.70 :)is alot better then $4.50:eek:

Suggest you do more research on it yourself.GM does allow up to 5 percent.Will not affect hoses or lines on newer vehicles.:)

TUX, I'm interested in how you make your bio diesel.

I don't have a processor. I'm stuck on the part where you neutralize the acids in the Used cooking oil. Lets say I have a 55 gal drum full of oil thats been heated and has been sitting and the impurities have settled to the bottom. I now have clean oil, but need to do the next step of getting the acid out of the oil if there is any. What chemical do I use and what is washing exactly? I hear some use 1 gallon of gas for an additive for every 55 gallons of oil. Thats one part I understand. It acts like a thinner right? Is this gas added to the finish product?

Help

Get your man card back.....

The most significant ling term effect that bio has had so far.........






More money in my pocket!!!!

yamadooski - do more research. GM does allow up to 5% on newer trucks. Fill out your signature so we know what you drive. And as said before the newer vehicles have the updated hoses and as long as it is washed and properly made you won't have a problem. If been running B100 for the last 35k miles.

GET IT RAG - you never want to add gas in oil or diesel on these new high pressure system. Gas is not used in making biodiesel.

Get_It_Rag,
I will try to make it short and sweet. You titrate the oil using a ph indicator, distilled water, and methoxide. Methoxide is methanol and either NaOH or KOH. The titration tells you how much NaOH or KOH you will need for the reaction. You then measure and mix your chemicals and add them to your oil. You do not need to add gasoline at all. Your oil will separate out to biodiesel and glycerine. You can then either "dry wash" the fuel with a catalyst or water wash it. This separates the remaining methanol/lye from the biodiesel. If you water wash, you will then want to dry your fuel until it is clear.
That is sort of a thumbnail sketch of how it works.

After I wash the fuel with water, will the oil and water seperate if I let it sit for a week or two?

On average, how much Lye do you add for every liter of oil? 6 or 7 grams for every liter of oil? And whats the average for adding the methanol? 100 liters of oil needs 20 liters of methanol? Is that a close average?

There are several web sites that give detailed instructions. One that I like is journeytoforever dot org. They will tell you everything you need to know.
The amount of lye depends on the condition of your oil. That is why titration is necessary. If you don't use the right amount you end up making soap instead of fuel.

After I wash the fuel with water, will the oil and water seperate if I let it sit for a week or two?

On average, how much Lye do you add for every liter of oil? 6 or 7 grams for every liter of oil? And whats the average for adding the methanol? 100 liters of oil needs 20 liters of methanol? Is that a close average?

Click below for the simplist videos there are which explains the entire process using a BioPro 190. It's a great machine and will have mine in a few weeks. I'll be able to make it for @ $0.92 a gallon. This machine is pricey but you get what you pay for:

http://flowplayer.sourceforge.net/video/FlowPlayer.swf?config=%7BvideoFile%3A%27BioPro190o verview%2Eflv%27%2CinitialScale%3A%27fit%27%2Cbase URL%3A%27http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eutahbiodieselsupply%2E com%2Fbiopro%2Fvideos%2Fbp190overview%27%7D

http://www.utahbiodieselsupply.com/tutorialvideos.php