Hi guys,

<o:p> </o:p>I’m putting my manifold back on and my manual makes no mention of the torque required for the bolts that hold the upper intake to the lower. Anyone know?
<o:p> </o:p>
Also, is there a tightening sequence for same?
<o:p></o:p>Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

<o:p> </o:p>Thanks for your time.<o:p></o:p>
-John
:ro)

I pretty sure my Chilton manual says 31 ft/lbs for the intake. You should be able to do a search on this forum and find out for sure.

Don't tightnet hose upper bolts to 31ft/lbs, they will probably strip.
i can lookl up a spec if you like, but I just go snug, been doing that way for years.

31 ft/lbs is probably for the lower to head bolts....dont know, but it sounds like way too much for the upper to lower.....

I did search here and could not find it. I always try searching before I post. But I have to wait until the wife goes to sleep before I get on the computer, so sometimes I'm soo tired I'll miss a post....LOL ;)

-john

You guys are right 31 ft/lbs for the lower intake. Come to think of it, when I did the upper intake a couple weeks ago, I think I tightened to 20 ft/lbs at most. Man I hate getting old, and forgetting about something that I just did.):h 15 ft/lbs would probably work just fine.

Might as well get the old Heli-Coils ready, I had to do 4 of mine.

Torque to 17 lb. ft. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/grd.gif http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif

Might as well get the old Heli-Coils ready, I had to do 4 of mine.

Yup I eat one and not even close to tight,...it stripped out on hand tightening...... :mad:

now I've got to take the whole F---ing thing off again and Heli-coil the bad one.....I think I'll stud all of them while I have it off this time.

Crap, another week goes by............

Thanks all for the info.

-john Censored

Yup I eat one and not even close to tight,...it stripped out on hand tightening...... :mad:

now I've got to take the whole F---ing thing off again and Heli-coil the bad one.....I think I'll stud all of them while I have it off this time.

Crap, another week goes by............

Thanks all for the info.

-john Censored A much simpler way in a pinch is to get new bolts formt he hardware store. The factory bolts have hardly any thread engagement. A bolt 10mm longer or more will go in the hole, and catch the threads at the bottom of the hole.
I see trucks come in here all the time with the bolts siliconed in place, since the owner stripped them, then found out they will blow out under boost condidtions, so they silicone them in the holes. then bring the truck to get the timing set.I normally just get some longer bolts for them and put them in, works fine.

Maybe do what Brian suggests but use studs bottomed in the hole filled with locktite, or some JB weld if there aren't that many threads left to grab in the bottom 3 threads should be plenty for 17' of torque, many nuts only have 3-5 threads in them and hold torque in excess of this. Thread pitch & material also impact on the ability to hold torque.

(JB won't replace the helicoil for a permanent fix but something you can do for a quick repair/test use sparingly you don't want a glob of it to break off & go into the intake or impede draw up of upper & lower intake),

Use a depth mic to measure where the bottom of the hole to top of upper intake is so you get the proper stud length, use a washer or spacer under the nut if you can't find the stud that meets exact length requirements

.I think I'll stud all of them while I have it off this time.

-john Censored

A much simpler way in a pinch is to get new bolts formt he hardware store. The factory bolts have hardly any thread engagement. A bolt 10mm longer or more will go in the hole, and catch the threads at the bottom of the hole.



Yup you're correct. There is much more thread and the stock bolts are really short for some reason. I recommend that anyone removing the upper intake to go get longer bolts before re-installing them. One thought though, what about leakage past the bolts? I guess they should have flanges like the stock ones.

Another idea I had was, in the event its an emergency situation, that you could get a bolt and run it up from the inside. It would act as a temporary stud. Just make sure you glue it in really well and use a jam or nyloc nut on the top.

What do you guys think of that idea.???

Thanks for all your guys help,

-John

You won;t get a long enough bolt up thru there from underneath inside the intake, if thats what you are syaing.
PS, i sent you the specs, check the PM.