I know this is the wrong area, but no one seems to repond on the forsale forum. Does anyone have a turbomaster setup for my '95 they want to sell? Thanks, Bob

I know this is the wrong area, but no one seems to repond on the forsale forum. Does anyone have a turbomaster setup for my '95 they want to sell? Thanks, Bob


We have a forsale forum?:joke:

I know this is the wrong area, but no one seems to repond on the forsale forum. Does anyone have a turbomaster setup for my '95 they want to sell? Thanks, Bob

Make your own. Mine cost less than $4 and only about a hour counting the trip to the hardware store. Just do some searching on hear for home made Turbo Master there are lots, many with pic's. One of these days I will get pic's posted in my garage.

I recently installed the heath unit on my 94. it only took about an hour for removal of old vaccum unit and reinstall new mech unit. Set up was just as easy as turning the lock nut to the proper stud bolt length and walla. Even tho it cost $100, to me its was well worth it.

I have the heath unit and i found that a 1/2 hour of time was all that was need to install it on the 94 sub I have. It did take about an extra hour to get o the vacum pump off the truck but well worth the time it took to do the process have scene alot better performance than i had before i replaced it well worth the price. great mod with the addition of the gauges drop me a line i can send you the web page i used for cheap guages

I'm gonna make my own. How do you set the spring tension without overboosting? I have a boost gauge and I shouldnt need an egt, right?

I'm gonna make my own. How do you set the spring tension without overboosting? I have a boost gauge and I shouldnt need an egt, right?

The spring needs to be pretty strong. I used two a inner and a outer. The outer fits over the bushing in the center of my old vac can after i removed the outer half. Then you just fire it up and watch the boost pressure and bring you wrench so you can tweek it as you go. I had mine set to 11 and then one day I hooked up to my boat. I had to back it off about a turn and a half to keep it at 11 with the load, so the first time you tow something make sure you bring your wrench again:D.

I've built 3 of these thus far, i used one of the drum brake "retaining" springs. Got a 2' length of 1/4" round stock and couple of locknuts from Home Depot. Bent the end to go through the lever on the waste-gate. Drilled a small hole in that for the retaining pin and threaded the other end. Gutted the factory bracket, then bolted it together. Needs to be a little stiff when working it with the fingers, but not real stiff for a starting point. Mine usually cost about $8 and 30 minuntes to fab up. Easy. Then drive the thing, see what it boosts to. Turn the nut in to increase, out to decrease & set it where you want it. Mine is set at 12lbs boost. Here is a pic i grabbed from this board, from the green it might be 'rigger's setup.
Don

8 to 9 psi is correct for a stock 94+ 6.5 unless you have a performance chip (94-95) or ECM (96+). The same is probably true for 92-93 6.5s but you can just turn the pump up and the boost to get more power. My 96 is set at 7.5 but i think i am going to turn it up a lil more to about 9 under load at wot.

8 to 9 psi is correct for a stock 94+ 6.5 unless you have a performance chip (94-95) or ECM (96+). The same is probably true for 92-93 6.5s but you can just turn the pump up and the boost to get more power. My 96 is set at 7.5 but i think i am going to turn it up a lil more to about 9 under load at wot.

Torque454,
Why so low? My computer controled boost would go to 13 before I put the TM on.

Well at anyrate, If the wastegate arm is at the bottom that would be open is that better then running is closed?

Torque454,
Why so low? My computer controled boost would go to 13 before I put the TM on.

Yeah, mine would go up to 12psi with factory wategate.

So is there any danger of blowing something up the first time I start it with the turbomaster setup because of it being out of adjustment? And should I go for a drive like up a hill or something to get a load and adjust accordingly afterward?

You are probably safe at idle. I wouldn't recommend driving it very far or hard without a boost gauge to tell you exactly where the boost is at.

I'm putting a boost gauge in it before I do the turbomaster.

Then you should be fine. Like everyone has mentioned, you should be safe up to 12-13 PSI without a boost fooler. You can probably push more than that with the original 21.5:1 pistons, but it isn't necessarily recommended.

I have seen the general consensus be 12-13 PSI across the board.

Here is a link to make a boost fooler. Looks like you want to put a 10K potentiometer between the MAP and the ECM.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38107&highlight=boost+fooler

Good luck.

It will spike to about 12 momentarily with the stock system but if it remained there for more than a second or two it would throw an SES light and de-fuel. Running that much boost for long could damage the engine because it would be pumping in massive amounts of hot air most of which it has no extra fuel to be used with. 8-9 psi is plenty. I've run mine with more and there was no difference. Turn it way up to 12 or 13 sustained and run it as hard as you can for a lil while and tell me if you have any pistons left that don't have any holes in them, or head gaskets with no leaks :) :D 12-13 is fine, but only with a chip/ecm, and you really should consider an intercooler as well. Lower compression would allow for more boost too.

I'm putting a boost gauge in it before I do the turbomaster.

I'd recommend a pyro too, lets you know when to get out of it for reasons other then too much boost. High EGT's are just as bad if not worse then too much boost.

1st gauges IMO required anytime one decides to alter fuel or boost delivery, here is why with mechanical WG/TM you are defeating puter from pulling boost if it "senses" trouble, if you maintain the vac system and fool system you are offsetting the point at which the puter "thinks it ought to be concerned about pulling boost".

Some reflashes/chips have "hot fuel curves" you may not know until she is knocking hard with piston damage, or turbo issues.

I'm plenty capable of running 90+ mph empty running with 10psi boost, so it's not peak boost attained, as stock will allow for 12+ spikes, to make power you are looking for sustained boost to go with available fuel, boost without fuel is just hot air, which can if cooling system isn't top notch can make engine run hot.

Also on a high ambient day, high boost can also be high IAT, normally controlled by lowering boost, but you mech control or fooled boost won't allow that to happen when it's supposed to, so if IAT remains high, then PCM pulls fuel which lowers net rwhp, & whole reason you tried to make more boost than allowed with PCM factory logic.

Building you own TM vs buying one you'll need to do own R&D to know when you at max useable boost and also not zapping mpg by keeping WG gagged fully shut resulting in high backpressure. It is a balance, the Heath TM has a std spring & a std tension setting length wich gives more power/boost without compromising mpg, tuneabile as you mod for more fuel to go with boost.

Another benefit, mech vs fooled vac is reliability, who want's to be on trip towing or even running empty, and have the fooler crap out (happened to me), the solenoid (yup been there), the pump (also me), line crack/leak (not me but know many who have had this problem) leave you with slightly better than 6.2 N/A Diesel power.

Build/buy TM but do it right with gauges