Hi all,

I am thinking of removing the engine driven fan on my Dmax and running a single or maybe twin electric fans.

Can anyone tell me how big the fan is on front of the engine and how big the radiator is. I would measure mine, But She's sat back in the UK (sulking) and I an here in the USA.

I have fitted quite a few Kenlowe fan kits in the past and found them to be great and save a LOT of room in engine bay.

I don't have a LBZ, but your radiator is big enough to mount 2 Ford Taurus Fans side by side.

Here's a thread about this conversion.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=161344

I'm sorry I don't have the dimensions handy. My laptop where I had all the stuff about my conversion is fried. If I recover my write-up, I'll send you the numbers.

if you tow heavy(~8-10k) electric fans are no bueno, they can't flow enough compared to oem

I can attest that you can tow with electric fans. Your environment has a lot to do with it. I have a DIY Electric fan setup in my Duramax. I just got through towing a 12k Fifth Wheel (Around 20K GCVW) to Orlando and back (170 miles each way). It's Florida towing, so it's fairly flat. I have no issues with engine temp although my tranny temp got to 210 a couple times, on a couple of the steeper/longer hills but was normally in the upper 100's.

If you go the electric route, I would suggest a bigger tranny cooler if you do a lot of hill climbing or heavy towing.

I would suggest if you go the electric route, your fans should flow at least 3000 cfm each. It's rumored the stock fan flows 12,000 cfm.

My LB7 radiator core area is about 34 X 21 inches. I couldn't get the best height measurement with the fans in the truck. I believe the LBZ is the same size. The fan is about 22 inches.

i was alwasy under the assumption that if you got the right electric fans that they would flow better than stock and put less of a strain on motor

I don't think that's the case with our trucks. That's a massive fan on our engine that can pull a ton of air with at least 300HP available to turn it. It would be extremely tough to pull that off with an electric motor. I think at full lockup it takes more than 20HP from the motor. I can't see running a 20HP motor with the crappy electrical system on these trucks. At least not without a bunch of smoke and melted wires.

With these trucks, you compromise the truck some by adding electric fans. For driving, racing, pulling, and med towing they're great. But for a heavy weight tow vehicle, not a good idea.

Something else that you might consider is what I just did with my LBZ; that is adding another radiator to the system. I am in hopes that it will eliminate the engagement of the fan clutch, and I will know for sure this weekend as we will be pulling our 14,000lb fifth wheel about 900 miles and over some 6% passes.
Installation is pretty easy if you are good at fabricating brackets. I used a Setrab model 920 cooler and I utilized the heater core/EGR coolant circuit for the tie in. The circuit is 5/8" hose and the cooled coolant from the cooler runs directly into the EGR cooler, which by the way is blocked so that therre is no heat load there, then into the rest of the circuit.
The Setrab 920 fits perfectly under the bumper and behind the air dam. Not towing there is a marked lowering of temps part of which is due to the fact that there is no thermostat in that circuit.
Randy