As the price of diesel skyrockets,I know a lot of you folks are thinking about going the Biodiesel route but a word of advice.No matter what processor you decide to use,research it completely before you jump.Talk to someone that uses one like it to find out the good and bad about them.Research and locate some oil suppliers before you put a lot of money into the system.Kinda like getting dressed up with nowhere to go if you don't have a oil supply first.Start slow and work your way up to it,don't put a lot of money out to find out you really don't have the time or space to devote to it.If you commit to pick up someones oil then make sure you do it and not flake out on them,they are depending on you just as you depend on them for oil.Find out if you can get the methanol and lye from someplace close to you,if you have to pay shipping and Hazmat charges on lye then suddenly its not quite so attractive a deal.I suppose what I am really getting at is research it a lot before you jump into it and by all means do it safely.Find out the hazards and the correct way to do it before you become a statistic.Not only am I concerned about you and your safety but also what happens when someone jumps in half ass with no regard to safety and brings down a lot of heat and bad press on the rest of us that are trying to be safe when we do it.You always hear about a Biodiesel fire or explosion but not too much about those of us that do it right.So for all of us in the Biodiesel community be safe above all.:cool:

Very well put +1

those are the reasons I have been slow getting started. I really want all my ducks in a row before I start.

I have been giving the bio-diesel a lot of thought, and every link I read agrees to secure an oil source before buying equipment. My one holdup is wheather I can use it 100% and will I be able to use it in the winter? My son is about to enter a Marine Biology High school and needs a year long science project and something like this would be perfect. My wife and I could guide him, she teaches at the school and is an engineer, and I have a environmental degree and think we could all get to benefit out of this. I have a good access to chemicals as I work for a water company and we buy lye, caustic soda and such from several vendors year round. Safety is the #1 factor in this equation, and as the company safety officer this would be a priority. Good write up jj500.

That's the best advice any newbe could have. Thanks JJ

Are there any draw back to useing the bio diesel over just diesel fuel.

Well said

Great advice. I've been researching for months and have collected lots of oil. My total costs per gallon are $.89 per gallon. My Bio-Pro 190 arrived today and I've got everything ready. Everything in the OP's post couldn't be more true.

I just bought my first diesel a 2007 Chevy 4x4 crew cab 3500 Dully last of the 06 models production 10/06 with the allison 6 speed automatic. I bought it to pull my 36 ft car haul trailer. I build & do custom & restoration sheet metal work on hotrod's for a living & have sence 1968. I specalize in hand formed steel 1935/36 Ford roadster's, cabriolet, replacement panels to complete roller cars all built in house. I live & work at home in Maple Valley Washington on 1 acre about 35 minutes from Seattle. MY shop is very well eqipped for sheet metal work. I have (3) original 36 Ford roadster's in my shop gas powered & a 49 Ford coe with C5 corvette suspension front & rear including trans axel with an Isuzz diesel under cunstruction.

Why I am here to pick up some tip's on how to get better fuel mileage & performance out of my diesel plus to learn about Bio diesel. I am seriously looking at producing my own & have been reading as much as I can so here are a few questions. I have one oil source alread & several more with in 5 miles of my place.

1 Can I run 100% waste recycled veg oil in my truck with out hurting it & what are the pros & cons or is it better to run a mix with regular high priced arab diesel.

2 Most of the conversion systems run the methanol lye conversion system with eather a 2 tank mix & a couple I have seen run with the single tank mix all in one. Is one better then the other.

3 Wash system some run the water wash & other's tout there dry wash system. To me the dry type would seam better due to a lot less chance of getting moisture into your fuel system. Is there any differance in the final preformance of the finished product.

4 Has any one run the dieselsecret.com product dose it realy do what they say.

5 I have read that during the cold months 40 & below it gells up dose any one produce a on board 12 volt tank heater system for winter use to be able to run year around.

6 Will I have to change my fuel filter when starting to run the bio & how often do you normanly change filters.

Sorry about being so windy on my first post I just dont want to mess up my truck & hope you guys can help with some guidance to a old guy new to diesel. I am even thinking about putting a diesel in my personal 36 roadster if i can get this stuff figured out & have it run as quiet as my duramax thanks Danny Pascoe

1: Straight veg oil is bad, unless you have a Mercedes diesel.
2: Two tank is better.
3: Water wash. You don't want lye in the fuel system.
4: Not me.
5: I think that would be a bad idea. Just mix bio and diesel in winter time.
6: Yes. Bio breaks loose all the crud in the system.

1: Straight veg oil is bad, unless you have a Mercedes diesel.
2: Two tank is better.
3: Water wash. You don't want lye in the fuel system.
4: Not me.
5: I think that would be a bad idea. Just mix bio and diesel in winter time.
6: Yes. Bio breaks loose all the crud in the system.


+1

carbuilder -

I make my own and run B100 almost year round (I'm just south of you). Only a couple weeks out of the year that I don't run B100 and run B50 to B75. I would be interested in talking to you about a project. I have a project that needs some body/sheet metal work/welding. Send me a PM if this is something you would be interested in doing.

1: Straight veg oil is bad, unless you have a Mercedes diesel.
2: Two tank is better.
3: Water wash. You don't want lye in the fuel system.
4: Not me.
5: I think that would be a bad idea. Just mix bio and diesel in winter time.
6: Yes. Bio breaks loose all the crud in the system.


If you are not using WVO what do you recommend running?

If you are not using WVO what do you recommend running?

I also don't recommend running WVO. I recommend running biodiesel instead.

Well I guess what I ment is processing WVO into biodiesel.

There is nothing wrong at all with using WVO and converting it into biodiesel. That is what I do. As long as your WVO is de-watered and filtered, you shouldn't have a problem converting it to biodiesel.

Yeah. To clarify is you can use WVO to make into bio (that is what I do), but don't recommend running just WVO with out converting it into biodiesel

Biodiesel processing with SVO vs WVO is the same as long as the used oil titrations are not way poor and the oil is free of water and any other contaminants.

I am looking at the mega II processor from Evolution Biodiesel. Does anyone on here use it is it worth the money or is there something better?

Excellent advice all the way around, jj50. I would add to get someone to show you the ropes before you invest big bucks. Find a biodiesel co-op and talk to them. It's as much art as science to make biodiesel, plus they may have processors you can use for free rather than buying your own. Also, think about what you are going to do with all the waste glycerin you will end up with.

Safety is very important. Methanol is extremely flammable and NaOH is extremely caustic.

you guys are all aware that by using anything over b5..you are voiding your warranty if you have fuel system problems, like injectors, fuel pump and such??

Only if they can prove it. :)

well, if your truck is in the shop with bad injectors, or a blown fuel pump, you dont think they can use the fuel in your system to do just that???

Hmmm the cost of injectors or save thousands a year. Also if your using a good quality biodiesel you are actually helping your motor out in the long run in comparison to ULSD.

It's always necessary to use good judgment. If you have high quality biodiesel the risks are minimal. If you have (or make) junk BD (and you'll know it) then don't use it. People should read up on exactly what is biodiesel and what is not biodiesel. For example, in asking about biodiesel in this very thread someone mentioned "Dieselsecret". Well, that's NOT biodiesel.

I see a couple problems with this-- you are generating hazardous waste-- LYE --- wher does it go? What about the road tax--? Do you have to compute this fuel and pay quarterly?

I have read that during the cold months 40 & below it gells up dose any one produce a on board 12 volt tank heater system for winter use to be able to run year around.


Tank Heater may not do it. I live on Bainbridge Island, same weather as you. Last November I accidentally wandered into a cold weather front in Poulsbo where the temperature was 32* running B100. I got home okay (Turned around and got home as fast as I could). Next day I put in straight dino to get to a 50/50 blend. Performance got worse over the next couple of days. I was down to a 70/30 dino/bio mix which should have seen me through, but the damage was done. The filter had plugged. I changed it and the truck has run fine ever since. I had been told and believed I would be okay with B100 unless the temperature was BELOW freezing, but my experience shows that CLOSE TO freezing will do it. Not that the fuel in the tank itself gels, but once it starts flowing through fuel lines it becomes vulnerable. Next year I'll go to a blend much sooner.

First off, not much warranty to worry about on a 1996 Burb!And the comment about disposing of hazardous waste.Lye.The only thing you will have left over after the process is glycerin which is used to make soap.The lye is used up in the process or so it should be.Thats what I was saying about doing research before you jump and not believing what you heard somebody told your second cousin on your mothers side once upon a time.All of us have heard things that supposedly happened to someone using Bio but how many of these problems can be directly associated to the use of that? Use your own brain and do the research and test your batches to see if they are coming out right.It has its limitations but it sure is better than the alternative.Or are you happy paying 4.50 a gallon to Big Oil?:)

I see a couple problems with this-- you are generating hazardous waste-- LYE --- wher does it go? What about the road tax--? Do you have to compute this fuel and pay quarterly?

Thats not true. Thats a lie :D

I see a couple problems with this-- you are generating hazardous waste-- LYE --- wher does it go? What about the road tax--? Do you have to compute this fuel and pay quarterly?
Lye (NaOH) is a reagent and is totally reacted with the oil and methanol to make biodiesel. You do end up with glycerine as a waste product, but glycerine is not a hazardous waste.

Technically you are supposed to pay the road tax, but after a recent court case in NC, home brewers were exempted from the tax here. Don't know about other states. One problem with paying the tax quarterly is that fuel distributors normally pay the tax and there is no system set up to allow individuals to pay it. Most people just ignore it and most states usually don't bother.

I dont know if this is true but I was told there is a federal law that states you can make up to 1600 gallons of biodiesel per/year without being taxed.

Yep jrad,pretty sure thats right.400 gallons per quarter for your own personal use.Gets kinda sticky if you get into selling it.Thats where you really open up a box of worms then.:rolleyes:

Yep jrad,pretty sure thats right.400 gallons per quarter for your own personal use.Gets kinda sticky if you get into selling it.Thats where you really open up a box of worms then.:rolleyes:

But that's the Federal part of the tax, right? State fuel taxes may not be covered under this particular exemption. Correct me if I am wrong.

There was an infamous prosecution by the NC Dept of Revenue last summer where the driver of a VW TDI was fined thousands of dollars for not paying road tax when he attracted state inspectors' attention at a truck stop with the WVO bumper stickers on his diesel car. It took special action by the NC state legislature to exempt home-brew biofuels from the road tax (one state legislator was even using WVO himself). The moral of the story - keep a low profile if you aren't sure what your state's policy is.

But that's the Federal part of the tax, right? State fuel taxes may not be covered under this particular exemption. Correct me if I am wrong.

There was an infamous prosecution by the NC Dept of Revenue last summer where the driver of a VW TDI was fined thousands of dollars for not paying road tax when he attracted state inspectors' attention at a truck stop with the WVO bumper stickers on his diesel car. It took special action by the NC state legislature to exempt home-brew biofuels from the road tax (one state legislator was even using WVO himself). The moral of the story - keep a low profile if you aren't sure what your state's policy is.

This is very sound advise, I have two diesel trucks .
One is a Freightliner MT-45 with a Cummins 5.9 ISB and ofcourse my
D-Max.

The more you fly under the radar, the better it is.
We are all proud of what we're doing, specially if we can save a few buck.
Don't try to sell the stuff you make at home.
It only takes one person that has a problem with his truck (no even your fault) to bring down the house.

Got a friend that was selling his stuff to alot of people, one person was pissed that he was making money with it or he felt that the guy was charging to much or what ever.

Next thing he knew was that the fire department showed up at his house and shut him down, and that started a chain reaction because the FD notified the other authoritys and so on and so forth.

Moral of the story is: Help those that what to be helped, not those that don't ask for it. "Give one a fish and feed them for a day. Teach them How to fish and they'll eat for the rest of their lives."

Tank Heater may not do it. I live on Bainbridge Island, same weather as you. Last November I accidentally wandered into a cold weather front in Poulsbo where the temperature was 32* running B100. I got home okay (Turned around and got home as fast as I could). Next day I put in straight dino to get to a 50/50 blend. Performance got worse over the next couple of days. I was down to a 70/30 dino/bio mix which should have seen me through, but the damage was done. The filter had plugged. I changed it and the truck has run fine ever since. I had been told and believed I would be okay with B100 unless the temperature was BELOW freezing, but my experience shows that CLOSE TO freezing will do it. Not that the fuel in the tank itself gels, but once it starts flowing through fuel lines it becomes vulnerable. Next year I'll go to a blend much sooner.

I run B100 most of the time. I have an additive that I add to it and I have a 12v heating pad that is velcro to the filter. I have been running B100 down to around 22-25 before it starts showing signs of problems. I did get caught in some weather down to 18 and it ran fine, but I got to a fuel station immediately to put some dino in to get it down. I only had to run B75 for a week when it was in the teens up during the day. FWIW

I run B100 most of the time. I have an additive that I add to it and I have a 12v heating pad that is velcro to the filter. I have been running B100 down to around 22-25 before it starts showing signs of problems. I did get caught in some weather down to 18 and it ran fine, but I got to a fuel station immediately to put some dino in to get it down. I only had to run B75 for a week when it was in the teens up during the day. FWIW


Whats this additive called, i will need some in my neck of the woods?

I've thought about it, but it sure seems like a lot of time commitment for collecting, processing, etc.

Some questions after reading this entire thread:
1) How much time is invested in making, lets say, a 55 gallon drum?
2) What is the shelf life of the processed bio? Can it sit in storage for a year, or is that too long?
3) You guys that are actually doing this, are you PAYING for the WVO, or are you getting it free?

I'm thinking really hard about pulling the trigger on this, but I couldn't do it unless the stuff has a reasonably long shelf life

You will spend a lot of time and engery driving around to collect the oil, then you still have to prosses and filter it. Plus you will need to send some money on buying pumps,aditives and much more . Not as easy and cheap as you may think.

Whats this additive called, i will need some in my neck of the woods?

It is called Technol B100 Biodiesel Cold Flow Improver

www.technol.com

I think my actual hands on time per 50 gallon batch might be around 2 hours.Most of it is get it started and come back later and finish it.I generally use it before a year,even in my home heating system its less than a year with no bad results.And all the oil I get is free,just pick it up on a regular basis.:)

I have some questions for all you that make biodiesel. What locations are you getting the wvo from and how do you go about asking them for it? What processor are you guys using and would you recomend it? Thankyou for your help.

I get mine mostly from Mom and Pop restaurants and pizzaria's. I'm going to check out nursing homes next.

It does take time. I'm 12 hours into my first batch. I can see that a nice reaction has occurred through the site glass.

Here's some pics of my set-up as of this morning.

Oh yea, I will only use my bio for off road use and home heating oil.

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/DUO_CORE/Stuff/06-2008004.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/DUO_CORE/Stuff/06-2008003.jpg

Tank Heater may not do it. I live on Bainbridge Island, same weather as you. Last November I accidentally wandered into a cold weather front in Poulsbo where the temperature was 32* running B100. I got home okay (Turned around and got home as fast as I could). Next day I put in straight dino to get to a 50/50 blend. Performance got worse over the next couple of days. I was down to a 70/30 dino/bio mix which should have seen me through, but the damage was done. The filter had plugged. I changed it and the truck has run fine ever since. I had been told and believed I would be okay with B100 unless the temperature was BELOW freezing, but my experience shows that CLOSE TO freezing will do it. Not that the fuel in the tank itself gels, but once it starts flowing through fuel lines it becomes vulnerable. Next year I'll go to a blend much sooner.

I am planning on building a system to run B100 year round even during our coldest months. Some days it can go to -45. Here is a site that will allow you to build such a system. http://www.arctic-fox.com/ . Mind you that I am planning on keeping my regular fuel tank to put winter fuel and have a electric solenoid that will allow me to switch from B100 to diesel. This will allow me to "clean out" the fuel system of biodiesel before I park the truck over night. The next morning I will be able to start like always and then flick the switch and run B100 in -45!! It will work. I alwready have my aluminum tank built with 1.5 inch of blue foam for insulation. The tank will have an electric heated pad that can be plugged in the house to keep it warm all night along with a thermostat. And to keep the bio warm during a trip have a in tank fuel warmer that uses the engines anti-freeze. The fuel will be sent to the engine threw heated fuel lines... and it will also be insulated with some sort of wraping foam. A heated fuel/water separator would also be a good idea. The only thing that I have not fugured out yet is to rig up annother return line for the bio tank. If anyone has any ideas let me know. Oh... whats the fuel pressure on the return line? If it's less that 30psi I have the answer to my question.