:mad:Incredible, picked up my truck from the dealer today 12 days later and $1,100 after the problem has not been fixed.

First time I took truck to dealer they told me I needed to replace my passenger side hub said sure no problem lets do it. Dealer said I needed to replace my inner tie rod on driver side as well.

Second time took truck and supplied dealer with a pair of brand new tie rods as they told me I needed to replace my inner rod and unfortunately Fabtech doesn't sell individual pieces therefore I purchased factory rods for future reference. I also told dealer I noticed I had a whole in my TC and mentioned the noise I took in for the first time was not fixed. Told me it was probably the TC.

Well, picked up today and the ****ing noise is still there DAMN IT!!!Went to discount today bought 4 quarts of mobil 1 synthetic 75w-40 gonna change out my rear end fluid when I get home as I think thats the only thing that is left. I noticed my rear end is wet towards the bottom of the rear cover. I mentioned to the dealer originally that I believe that it could be my rear end but they say its not. I doubt it will make a difference but I need to change it anyways so **** it. :mad:

If anyone here can give me any guidance on what else to check please let me know. As you'll read in my other threads about this same problem. I have a grinding like sound that is audible at low speeds under 15mph its a rotary sound and its not the tires as the grinding like sound turns faster than the tires are rotating

go back to the dealer, tell them the problem still hasnt been fixed and you want satisfaction.......

if you don't get it, i hope you didnt pay cash....if you used credit card, dispute the charges, check....stop payment....

go to another dealer

I cant do that because everything they have replaced was needed to be replaced I forgot to add a new idler and pitman arm were also replaced throughout these 12 days. Mechanic showed me everything that needed to be replaced and explained and demonstrated why my understanding was that the noise would be gone after all these repairs. The other pain in the ass about the dealer is that its in BFE and I just spent $318 on a rental for 12 days. I spoke with the mechanic but he tells me its the ****ing tires

i really think its my rear end he it most at lower speeds just drove it and 7mph is where you hear it the loudest and its only heard when you accelerate. now say your going about 20mph you barely hear it then you back off the gas and let it coast when it drops below 10mph into 1st gear you hear it again without the need to accelerate. however, at 20mph if you accelerate a lil bit you can hear it as well, not as noticeable but tis there. any help would be greatly appreciated.

bump

Somebody on here or even the stealer ought to be able to provide a factory set of tires and wheels to rule them out. I'm to lazy to bring up the other threads, BUT it should not be difficult to find the problem with a little extra thinking, especially after ruling out the parts that were changed.

Different while turning, different while accelerating/cruising/slowing, gone in 4wd on a straight road?

Different while turning, different while accelerating/cruising/slowing, gone in 4wd on a straight road?

noise is present at all times like i mentioned before its barely audible at higher speeds atleast i can't hear it over my exhaust but you can hear it under 10mph clearly

Have you checked your U-joints?

jb

how do i check my u-joints? Im really lost on what this could be...if it was my rear end wouldn't the noise be constant and louder at higher speeds, likewise for my u-joints? The only reason that im leaning more towards my rear end is because it happens when I accelerate although it does it as well while coasting under 10mph. WTF??????????

With you already this deep in the hole ($$$), I would drop the driveshaft and each joint should be free to oscillate and the center bearing should spin freely and noise free. Remember to block the wheels before pulling the driveshaft. U-joints are hit or miss on these trucks. The only ones I ever did were gassers, but one clunked and the other hummed. And grabbing the shaft while on the truck revealed nothing. Off the truck, it was obvious. While the shaft is out, I'd lube the yoke and splines at the T-case (there's a DIY on here about that). With the shaft out, I'd also spin the rear tires and pinion, listening for noise. Factory fluid levels in the rear axle have been known to be low. If you think maybe tires, criss-cross rotate them, effectively reversing the treadwear scallops on every tire, by changing their rolling direction.

I can only assume that the T-case fluid is at full, along with both differentials.

dealer should have or could have jacked it up,put it in gear and been able to locate the noise.

You can do this but be careful, dont want the truck to run over you.
If it did then that noise wouldnt seem so important.

Just seems as if the dealer plays dumb to nickle and dime people,not saying a grand is nickle and dime but you know what i mean.

I dont know but it could be the rub problem in the tc
rear end would be fairly loud and deep
u-joint would probably clank when put into gear.

I would do as heymccall suggested. I replaced a u-joint on my buddies dually and that solved the problem. One of the bearings on the u-joint was rusted and the needles were ground to dust. He also experienced the same symptoms that you have described in this thread. Good luck--

how do i check my u-joints? Im really lost on what this could be...if it was my rear end wouldn't the noise be constant and louder at higher speeds, likewise for my u-joints? The only reason that im leaning more towards my rear end is because it happens when I accelerate although it does it as well while coasting under 10mph. WTF??????????


On the differential there are 2 u-bolts that attach the u-joint to the differential. Take off the 4 nuts and push thedrive shaft to the transmission. The yoke will slide into the trans allowing the shaft to be free. It will then shower you with rust crunchies and drop on your head, so be careful, it's not super heavy but you don't want a bonk!

Then wiggle the diff end - there should be NO play in the u-joint and it should feel smooth as butter - no grindy cruchy. Then with one hand on the yoke end, wiggle the drive shaft and see if you can fee any play in the yolk end u-joint. Notice that I don't recommend pulling yoke out as it could allow trans fluid to flow out. (I don't know if the Allison does that or not... others do.).

If the U-joints are bad, press them out and replace. or put it back and have a local repair place do it.

Have another problem, well, this weekend and NEED to tow a 40' TT about 10,000lbs 1 way about 120 miles, I won't have time to remove and check my u-joints before this weekend. Do you think I will be risking anything, ie, would my u-joint blow on me going up a bridge and leave me stranded???? Might seem stupid but Im not too mechanically inlined lol......had a buddy ride in my truck to show the noise he says it could be a wheel bearing, what do you guys think

lol, just went on another ride except this time my buddy was driving and i was sitting in the bed. the noise is coming from the center of my truck, i have an ext. cab. so i got under it and the only place that seems logical is the TC or the part where the driveshaft enters the tc. it sounds pretty nasty from outside ontop of the bed

lol, just went on another ride except this time my buddy was driving and i was sitting in the bed. the noise is coming from the center of my truck, i have an ext. cab. so i got under it and the only place that seems logical is the TC or the part where the driveshaft enters the tc. it sounds pretty nasty from outside ontop of the bed
Chock the wheels, tranny in neutral, 6 bolts later the shaft is out:D:rolleyes:. All U-joints should have a "fluid motion" and the center bearing should spin noise and rumble free. It ain't rocket science.

I would bet a u joint, but maybe its coming from the tail shaft on the tcase though?

Check your ring and pinnion gears!! My gasser had a low humm coming from the rear end. I had to ride in the bed to tell how loud it was. I took the cover plate off and I was missing 2 teeth off the ring gear. Just a thought!!!

Good luck

taking it back to the dealer next week lets see what they say this time.

Jack up the rear end and put it in drive and look under the truck for the noise while its spinning.

did that and it sounds like its coming from the rear end supposedly its my carrier bearing. hopefully it won't blow while im pulling the tt this weekend

Are you sure your transfer case isnt leaking all over the rear end? If the tcase is empty of fluid, it will moan and groan.

tc is brand new or atleast the rear half is ad the dealerr replace it as i had a hole.