OK guys give me the skinny on AMSOIL. I put in truck as soon as i purchased it and during my recent posts regarding problem that has seem to lead to turbo failure, some stated the the failure could have been due to extended life of oil. AMSOIL seems to state they would go 24,000 miles between changes with filter change at 12,000. Now I would never sign up to that length, I was on about 7,500 on my oil change planning on changing at 9,000. I changed filters @ 3 & 6, 000. I noticed oil looked dirty pretty quickly. Now I now or have heard that diesels are pretty hard on oil, does AMSOIL hold up longer that other conventional oil (synthecic)? What do you guys use and how long between changes.

15w40 Rotella-T in the GMC @ 8000KM (5000 mi) intervals, 15w40 Valvoline Blue in the Cummins @ 12,000 km (7500mi) intervals

I go 10,000 on the amsoil with a filter at 5,000 no problems yet. dave

With no bypass filtration running any oil that long is not a good idea unless you did an oil sample and tested it. I run 5k oil changes on Delvac 1 which is a synthetic and very good oil.

My plan was to go 10,000 on Amsoil and filters every 3,000. Just concearned with recent posts that oil may have caused turbo failure.

I have personally seen turbo failures from not letting an engine warm up during cold weather(below 0), if that oil hasn't reached the turbo bearings and that turbo spools up to 100,000 rpms it is going to fail. As far as drain intervals go, it involves testing the oil regularly at a cost of around 20.00 and is highly dependent on engine condition. A direct injected engine's oil stays clean a lot longer that an indirect injected engine. By pass filters do a good job of filtering contaminants but soot is still small enough to go right through the bypass's 2micron media. Soot kills engine parts, it is basicly an abrassive. So, for our diesel engines I can not get on board with super long oil change intervals when we have excellent oils as Rotella and Delo available. So my opinion is to run dino in the engine(unless it is staying below 0 f, then 5w-40 synthetic) and run sythetic in the gear boxes for better friction reduction, and change your oil more often with the money you save from not having to test your oil.:grd:

What do you guys mean by "dino" oil

Dino (dinosaur) means conventional (non synthetic) oil. I usually change between 4k and 5K miles. Oils cheap and motors aren't. I wouldn't believe oil to be the cause of turbo failure without some good hard data to back it up. To keep cost down and protection up I run half conventional and half synthetic (not the blends offered on the shelf), which can be as little as 20% synthetic. This has worked for me on every vehicle I've ever owned, and I have never had an oil related failure.

I'm running the 5W-40W Rotella Synthetic (I don't want to hear the type III vs Type IV BS) change it every 3-3,500 miles I also run a 2 quart oil filter to get that extra quart of oil.

I've had turbo tractors, trucks, motorcycles, airplanes, cars and pickups since 1968 and have replaced lots of turbos. Not one was caused by oil failure. The leading cause of turbo failure is killing the engine without proper cool down. Without exception all motors have to reduce TIT's to a level below which the oil will cook in the turbo bearings after the engine is stopped. No companys oil can survive a hot turbo! Most engines that I have had experience with recommend at least a five minute cool down before stopping the engine. The secret to a long life engine is to change oil and filter as often as you can and allow time for the turbo to cool down. I've used Amsoil for years and have had no problems. I think the synthetics will handle more heat than the dino oils and maybe they are a little slicker. I KNOW that when dino oils are replaced with synthetics in drag race cars they will show improved performance.