Can the hydrolic pressure be increased safely? I need more pressure but don't know how to get it.I know I can turn it up somehow. Just finished a project up and spent a good ammount of $$$$ to make it work and now I'm at a loss as to what to do because I don't have enough pressure
:( :(

on top of the pump is a control valve body should be a flat screw head on the top end of the valve with a seal wire on it, brake the wire and turn the screw in, never had anyone complain about presher on a 6410, 3200psi, make shure you have good hoses.

I'm cutting tire tanks. 3-6" of rubber and steel :(. Hoses are brand new but only 3,000psi. maybe I better get some 4,00psi hoses.

Thanks,I'll give it a shot.

maybe go to a larger cylinder. got any pics of what it is you built?

I'd check to see what pressure you actually have first. Could be the pump needs a rebuild. If you have the full 3200, then whatever you are operating with it maybe needs to be reconsidered a bit for a bigger cyl or longer lever arm.

Larger cylinder won't fit cause I built a box around the cylinder for strength :(. I may post pic's,haven't decited. These cutters are a bit scarce and no-one wants their design copyed :rolleyes:.

maybe go to a larger cylinder. got any pics of what it is you built?

shoot me an email and I will put you in touch with the Product Verification and Validation Engineer at Deere's Augusta plant that just so happens to be my brother.

charlesb@martinmarietta.com

Larger cylinder won't fit cause I built a box around the cylinder for strength :(. I may post pic's,haven't decited. These cutters are a bit scarce and no-one wants their design copyed :rolleyes:.

how about a pic of what you're cutting. just trying to see what a tire tank is.

Playing with the screw on the relief cartridge= not a good idea, especially if you have any junk tie rod cylinders that typically use o-rings for rod and piston seals. The urethane Parker Polypak type seals can tolerate 5kpsi WP, but those pressures will extrude the 70 durometer o-rings used in most cheap tie rod cylinders.

Playing with the screw on the relief cartridge= not a good idea, especially if you have any junk tie rod cylinders that typically use o-rings for rod and piston seals. The urethane Parker Polypak type seals can tolerate 5kpsi WP, but those pressures will extrude the 70 durometer o-rings used in most cheap tie rod cylinders.
That's kinda what I was getting at by saying he should verify what the pump is actually putting out. Far be it from me to tell somebody he shouldn't crank up a relief valve... but I wouldn't. Safety comes first with me.

I agree with above- find out what pressures you have before trying to crank them up. you may have to do some reengineering of your cutter.

Your asking for trouble if you up your pressure. The rest of the system will take a beating. Is it worth damaging other parts of the tractor or other implements to do this one job. Its your decision, but IMO advise against it. If you don't have enough force at the cutter for the job you have three options: pressure, increase leverage, or larger cylinder for more force.

Look at a larger cylinder bore or if the design permits, move the pivot point and lengthen the cylinder for more leverage.

Here's a pic of the tires I'm cutting. We take the top out and put cement in the one wheel opening that's on the ground. They never rust :D.

how about a pic of what you're cutting. just trying to see what a tire tank is.

thanks for pic, now I see you're chopping the sidewall out. we built some tire crushers back in the 70&80s so junk yards could crush the rims to get them off the tires fast. it was like a 3 cylinder triangluar log splitter w/out cutting wedges.
I still think you need bigger cylinder or reduce the size of the blade cutting the sidewall, unless your tractor is low on pressure. I wouldn't crank it up more. you don't have a Deere SSL do you? mine runs 3450psi from factory and could tell you if a little more psi could help.

why not set up a power unit so you could run higher pressure if you wanted?

since your on a farm, why not take one of the 5hp electric motors off an auger and put it on one of these 4000 psi pumps (http://www.hydraulic-supply.com/html/productline/mfgprod/barnes-pumps.htm)?

save hours on tractor and you could do it inside the shop.

I need it to be portable. I have jobs lined up at other locations other than our place but maybe I could make it portable even with a small motor and pump :D.

I don't have an SSL. I think problem #1 is my blade is dull and it needs to be sharp. Someone told me ahead of time the dull blade would work but I thing they were mis-informed.

how much wire is in the tires?

can you hard face the edge or put hard weld on it to cut longer or is made from tool steel already?

The smaller ones {under 9'} have only 1 or 2 layers of steel. I can cut it with a sawzall but it's a PITA :mad:. The 10'-12's have a lot of steel. Currently I have a plain 6" wide steel blade. Give me a bit more info on tool steel please :cool:

how much wire is in the tires?

can you hard face the edge or put hard weld on it to cut longer or is made from tool steel already?

you can buy different grades of tool steel, most need a heat treat oven to get up to temp to harden the steel. some can be air cooled to harden but others need dipped in oil or water to harden them. our dies cut steel and tens of thousands of pieces before they need resharpened. we laminate some small jobs which like your wedge, grind a 3/8" flat to remove the edge and weld it up w/ hard rod then regrind the edge back. it'll make it hold an edge for a lot longer than than plain old CR steel. I can get you some rod #s if you want to try welding.

I talked to my HT guy and he said best would be S-7 tool steel and you can flame harden it w/ a torch. heat the area up to 1725* (yellow temp range which is past the orange color). S-7 has high impact strength. D-2 will work better but the temp has to be controlled closer.

OK cool. I sharpened my blade some more this morning and still no success. I did have it on an A/C 190 tractor though,not our 6410 Deere. I think if I had used a bigger cylinder I'd have been better off. I'll get a pic up and maybe someone can tell me if there's error in my design.

I talked to my HT guy and he said best would be S-7 tool steel and you can flame harden it w/ a torch. heat the area up to 1725* (yellow temp range which is past the orange color). S-7 has high impact strength. D-2 will work better but the temp has to be controlled closer.
I've done extensive work with D2 for many years in the meat slicing business and believe me, it's NOT something anybody without alot of experience should even mess with. Not properly heat treated and especially tempered it can easily become a frag grenade.
On edit: As to the S7, it should be cooled to room temperature from 1725* then for best toughness tempered at 400* to 450* for at least 1/2 hr then cooled slowly to room temp.

I've done extensive work with D2 for many years in the meat slicing business and believe me, it's NOT something anybody without alot of experience should even mess with. Not properly heat treated and especially tempered it can easily become a frag grenade.
On edit: As to the S7, it should be cooled to room temperature from 1725* then for best toughness tempered at 400* to 450* for at least 1/2 hr then cooled slowly to room temp.


we induction harden thousands of pounds of D-2, S-7 along w/ other tool steels every week. the induction works better than flame hardening but the torch will work and they've done it for over 50 years here.

on edit, talked to my HT guy more and D-2 is fine but if flame it don't go over 1800* and draw it in house oven at 450* and 1 hour for evey inch of thickness. it won't become a gernade. thin stuff may not work good but thick chunks act different. as for S-7, put it in the oven at 400* and same hour/ inch of thickness. I found out we don't draw/temper any of our tool steel anymore unless it's been full HT in furnace.


if you want pm me a pic and it won't go anywhere else if you're afraid of someone copying it.

I have nothing useful for this thread besides good luck with your project! Those are awesome tanks and if you can get it to work, you should be able to easily pay off the investment.

We made a tire tank at my one brother in laws about 2 years ago. We used the sawz all to get the sidewall off. You are right, it is a PITA! But those tanks are so nice! Until you need to move them. :rolleyes:

I've been using the Sawzall. Wore one out :rolleyes: so I decited it was time. I sold at least 65 last year so yes it's a good business :D.

I have nothing useful for this thread besides good luck with your project! Those are awesome tanks and if you can get it to work, you should be able to easily pay off the investment.

We made a tire tank at my one brother in laws about 2 years ago. We used the sawz all to get the sidewall off. You are right, it is a PITA! But those tanks are so nice! Until you need to move them. :rolleyes:

we induction harden thousands of pounds of D-2, S-7 along w/ other tool steels every week. the induction works better than flame hardening but the torch will work and they've done it for over 50 years here.

on edit, talked to my HT guy more and D-2 is fine but if flame it don't go over 1800* and draw it in house oven at 450* and 1 hour for evey inch of thickness. it won't become a gernade. thin stuff may not work good but thick chunks act different.
I was picturing a fairly thin cross section and that's why I said what I did. After 20 years of being the engineer responsible for all of my company's D2 meat slicing knives, I have seen just about all of the heat treating mistakes made. I don't mean to offend you Tim, I'm just concerned about the safety aspect.
I'd love to take a look at your design and help out if possible, but if you don't feel comfortable with that then I understand. Good Luck!

I was picturing a fairly thin cross section and that's why I said what I did. After 20 years of being the engineer responsible for all of my company's D2 meat slicing knives, I have seen just about all of the heat treating mistakes made. I don't mean to offend you Tim, I'm just concerned about the safety aspect.
I'd love to take a look at your design and help out if possible, but if you don't feel comfortable with that then I understand. Good Luck!

I know we have some splitter steels and some are only 3mm thick and they are touchy on HT. but we use a lot of big iron and now just flame/induction harden everything. our HT guys used to draw everything but a few years ago letter came down from high ups and said not to waste time on it. so we've been running these jobs like this for a while now. we cut millions of pounds of iron every year and have one HT guy to do our die work.
I'm thinking he's got more like a log splitter wedge to cut thru the sidewall. we just were on different pages :eek: you thinking thin and I'm thinking big block. BTW he's also a blacksmith and has made all kinds of knives from crane cable to roller chain to anything else he can heat and beat :D. it takes him almost a day to flame harden some of our bigger dies.

If you're ever in the area and want I'll get you a tour of our plant, we do have some interesting things to see.

Just another thought. Chk the bypass valve it may be bad or out of adjustment. When you run a load on the hydrolics does it make the engine grunt or not?

Did you get it working?

I haven't had time :(. Been farming and cutting scrap with these high steel prices.

I'll get you some pic's when I get a chance.

Did you get it working?

I'm saving my scrap for when China attacks us, we'll need it to build guns and a tank or two. :D

I made some progress today :D. I got the cutter to cut through all but the steel belts. That means only about 1/2" of progress is not needed to make it cut all the way through. I put a bead on the end of the blade and sharpened it,then made a smaller hole in the stop so instead of the 3/4"x6" blade going into a 3"x7" hole it's going into a 1.5"x7" hole. Less give in the rubber this way.

I narrowed my blade to 4" and it cuts good.
Dmax Tim, any idea what a 4"x18" piece of hard steel with a 45-60 degree edge on the end would cost and where I could find something like that?

check around local machine shops, not sure what you've got out there.
we've got lots of places in Ohio that have tool steel in stock.
how thick is the piece? still 3/4"

go to http://www.mcmaster.com/

type in toolsteel in search and it'll give you different types.

D2 is in 3/4x4x18"

but S7 is only up to 3" wide.

but it'll give you idea on price and what they can get.