I build my engines other side for checking today, and piston to head have only 0,2 mm clearance, piston to valve have 1.8 mm.

Pistons are TTS forged, cam is TTS extreme and heads are Socal stage 2.
We have to deck block 0,1 mm because head was moved and made marks in it.
Rods are over year old Crowers, I measure them and they seem to be 0,15 mm too long.

So I have to cut pistons, but how much?

piston stick above deck by 0.15mm/.006"?
pistion to head is .2mm or .0008"
piston to vlv 1.8mm or .071"

honestly is looks like something is missing in the equation...
the with gasket or without gasket thicknees in the equaltion?
iirc "C" gaskets are .762mm/.030" thick compressed

Gasket was my old grade C. I measure clearances with some small pieces of modeling paste on pistons, then head in correct torque with old ARP studs, and correct valve lash. Few turns and then head off.
Those measurings are tightest I get, but everything was build as it should be.
Bearing clearances are now in larger side of tolerance.

the piston to head at .2mm/.008"

well i goof on a measurements:( .2mm is .008" NOT .0008" or .02mm:eek:

.2/.008" should be ample room unless you want to cut another .001"/.0254mm of the top..

iirc min clearnce is .003"/.076mm

i would let some of the other builders weigh in on here.;)

Have you contacted Steve at TTS?

Yes I get answer from Steve.

I would like to see nothing less than .0246 in. piston to cylinder head clearance to be on the safe side.

I have gaskets that are .010 thicker than the Grade C if you need them.

Factory specification should be followed for piston and head gasket combinations

"A" gasket = .008" - .0108" (.223 - .274 mm) piston above the deck
"B" gasket = .0108" - .0128" (.274 - .325 mm) piston above the deck
"C" gasket = .0128" - .0148" (.325 - .376 mm) piston above the deck.

Piston to head should be .0276" (.7 mm) but no tighter than factory minimum of .0246" (.62 mm).

Piston to valve clearance I like to see .090" - .100" (2.29 - 2.54 mm) when turning the engine over by hand. These numbers have worked well for us running 9 second 1/4 miles and 5000 RPM so I see no reason to change any of them. There are gaskets that are .010" thicker than the "C" gasket now from the factory and they are listed for a decked block with over bore. We also sell our custom gaskets that are .020" thicker than the "C" gasket.

So I have 2 options, cut pistons or put thicker gasket.
If I go to thicker gasket, it must probably be 0.02 thicker model.
I have to look engine again and think what to do.

yep thicker gaskets would be easier... the down side is it might be more prone to blow with the cylinder pressure:o: since you are looking at at least 1000rwhp neighborhood

Yep, but my engine is also balanced now, if I cut pistons it must do again.

Keep us posted Mika I cant wait to see what your truck does. You have done excellent work on it. Let us know if you cut the pistons or go with thicker gaskets.

Yep, but my engine is also balanced now, if I cut pistons it must do again.
either you are cutting them now or later...... i vote now since it stil out

OK, I did better measurements now, yesterday I was tired :p:
I measure every pistons in four points, and average for piston was 0,47mm over deck. Pistons were very close each. Maximum point was 0,55mm, because pistons are not exact straight in cold.
I think 0,010 over gasket will handle my situation well.

I talk to machining shop, they said they take 0,15mm off of deck, and if I measure Croverīs length correct, there was 0,15mm too much also, so that makes pistons come too high now.

either you are cutting them now or later...... i vote now since it stil out

Well, I will open my engine next winter again, I just hope it will handle next summer and 5000 kmīs.:D

My mind seems to change every day.
I will cut pistons, that is fastest way to work now. Machining shop promise to give pistons back in Friday.

My mind seems to change every day.
I will cut pistons, that is fastest way to work now. Machining shop promise to give pistons back in Friday.

What about rebalancing after the pistons cut?

What about rebalancing after the pistons cut?
meessa thinks he already knows that... and figures it went with out saying:rolleyes:

Machining shops opinion was that there are so less material taken off, that re-balancing is unnecessary.

Machining shops opinion was that there are so less material taken off, that re-balancing is unnecessary.
:think: um that dont sound right.....

I dont know, but just calculate there goes approx 1,4 cm3 material off, and that weigths maybe 3 grams.

edit.. so i called up a reputabel balance shop out here.. and talked to them..
i told them 1000rwhp and 4500rpm on a v-8. they balance with in 1-1.5grams. the common factory spec is ~20grams. he said the fact that you are removeing /make the piston light is better than making them heavier.

anothering he mentioned is since it is a v-8 and ahd 2 rod/pisotn a throw it cancel/balances out. a v-6/i-6 were each piston has its own throw. you would have problems


hmm learned something new today :D

I ran the thicker TTS head gaskets and they didn't push out on me. that was at 700RHWP and almost a 1000RHWP on nitrous.

yep thicker gaskets would be easier... the down side is it might be more prone to blow with the cylinder pressure:o: since you are looking at at least 1000rwhp neighborhood

never said it wasnt possible.

gaskets give before head/block does.. and in that thinking i dont want anything thinker than it has to be.. but that is my 0.02$

and on top of that mika is useing a more "explossive" diesel than we see here in the states.. what didnt push/blow for you "might" blow for mika.. due to the different fuel behaviors

never said it wasnt possible.

gaskets give before head/block does.. and in that thinking i dont want anything thinker than it has to be.. but that is my 0.02$

and on top of that mika is useing a more "explossive" diesel than we see here in the states.. what didnt push/blow for you "might" blow for mika.. due to the different fuel behaviors
i would be alot more worried about those two massive chargers popping a head gasket than i would changes in fuel characteristics.

Based on the fact that we have to calculate the amount of oil slinging around and carbon on top of the piston, I don't think I would rush to have it rebalanced because you removed 3 grams from the piston.

Based on the fact that we have to calculate the amount of oil slinging around and carbon on top of the piston, I don't think I would rush to have it rebalanced because you removed 3 grams from the piston.

Rebalancing was not done. Engine is almost builded now. I am now begin installing injector sleeves, then I will see how your injector clamps and studs work.

Rebalancing was not done. Engine is almost builded now. I am now begin installing injector sleeves, then I will see how your injector clamps and studs work.

Be sure to torque them to 75ftlbs with moly lube.

Be sure to torque them to 75ftlbs with moly lube.

Good to know. Big difference with stock torque.

Good to know. Big difference with stock torque.

Well, injectors are in, and I take few beers, what takes me to think why cant stud/bolt/etc suppliers/manufacturers put torque or specific installing instructrions with parts.
I have buy several parts, like main studs, inj. clamps, head studs etc without any torque specifications. In worst case I got wrong torques when I ask it from forum.
I dont get any sense that you have always ask how this is supposed to install from supplier or seller, if you buy something.

There are a ton of parts that have no specs, no instructions, and half the time dont even fit perfectly. Its annoying as hell.

There are a ton of parts that have no specs, no instructions, and half the time dont even fit perfectly. Its annoying as hell.

Yeah, I call them American Bolt On.
But still in my knowledge it would be lot of faster to print 100 papers and put them on shipping, than answer 100 times on phone and talk five minutes smacktalk with each customer.
Of course then is possibility to sell something else also, but still I would like to get instructions with parts, if they are not similar with stock.

Mika,

I already had a motivational chat with my shipping about forgetting to provide instructions with your Billet LB7 injector clamps.

Please accept my apologies.

Guy

Mika,

I already had a motivational chat with my shipping about forgetting to provide instructions with your Billet LB7 injector clamps.

Please accept my apologies.

Guy

Guy, I was not talking just clamps or todays situation. I am glad you give me proper torques before I install them, because I was thinking to use stock torques with these

But problem is bigger.

I have buy 2 sets of head studs, (one with torques), 2 sets of main studs, and other items, and there are parts that cost hundreds or even over thousand dollar per part, and not any specific installing instruction with them.
I understand that most of parts are supposed to use only by experienced installer, but still there are customers that are willing to do their work alone.