joispoi (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/member.php?u=10520)<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_479915", true); </SCRIPT>

Spending money on mods can become habit forming...:D

But on the serious side i'm glad to be able to do the show and tell thing, i just wish i had more time for it than what i do.


The latest thing i've done is to put a remote temp sensor under the hood in different locations looking for the coolest spot for intake air at both idle and driving at 60 MPH, so far the 2 coolest spots have been on the drivers inside fenderwell (8 degree's C above ambient while moving / 26 degree's above ambient while idling) and insided the passenger side fender where factory setup is drawn from, (ran at ambient temp while moving and 23 degree's above ambient while idling), i guess GM got it right sucking air through the fender. I also just for giggles put the sensor in the upper left hand corner of the rad on the shroud side, while idling the temp would range from 61 to 63 C, seemed to do that constant as the thermostats opened and closed every minute or so and then all of a sudden....POOF... the sensor melted off the end and my test was over, lol, stupid cheap Canadian Tire sensor...lol.

One other test i did before i started the under the hood temps was to see what kind of temps came from the heater core to the defroster and this one almost blew me away, with the engine running at 90C and the fan on high temps at the duct were 62C, when i turned the fan speed to the slowest temps rose up to 70C, not that this is useful to you guys but i just had to know how hot it got there for some reason.

Anyways.... who would like to see a video taken from under the hood staring at a wastegate actuator to see if it blows open at 19 PSI???? I haven't made the video yet but am seriously contemplating it, the factory setup on this thing needs some adjustment to it as the pull rod from the diaphram should pull on the actuator at a 90 degree angle when fully activated but its well past that when fully activated and i think it needs improvement. If i get this right i expect i'll be able to sustain boost of 20 PSI when on it full throttle rather than just peak to 20 psi and watch it fall back to 15 psi, not for the faint of heart or small wallets! I'm pushing the envelope in the pursuit of more power, if you can't afford repairs don't follow my mods!!!

Next on my list of mods will be propane injection and intercooler, although with natural gas plentiful in my parts that thought has also crossed my mind.

:driver: :cookoo:

CR, check into a thermocouple kit from Sears runs about $20 US, it converts a digital volt meter into a digital thermometer, good for 500C, I put the module under the hood and have 2 wires run into the cab from engine bay that hook the meter & temp module together.

thanks for the info...nearest Sears is 1 hour away.......modding a 6.5.... priceless....

So now if you've already done these tests why should i go buy one? Just share your info and save me the time.

I haven't tested same places as you, in my points to ponder post on FSD temps is what I used it for, I will take requests, what info you after, might want to get your own, since you are going into exploration phase with your truck, maybe you can use it to define your max boost boundary for IAT until you get your IC installed.

Well i'm simply looking for the coolest place to suck intake air from, cooler = more power, so if its coming from the coolest place before it hits IC or turbo then thats where its going to come from.

After taking measurements from all the area's within the already supplied factory inlet i see no reason not to keep it there pre-turbo unless temps are a factor and it seems that temps there are very good, the only thing that needs improvement is the factory elbow from the turbo to the filter IMO as the flow charactoristics really suck with it being flattened out there.

As to max boost boundry, i don't have one........

Better find one until you post turbo cool it down some, & 18:1,, ditto on crappy turbo feed elbow, working on a solution to that one myself.

Since the 6.5 air intake is not IN the engine bay, but thru the fender and up in front of the headlites, try putting your probe there.

All you gotta do is open up the holes by the headlites, and hi-pressure cool frontal air will make it's way thru the insulated fender 'duct' to the air box inlet.

Stick your hand - palm forward - outta the window at 30, 40, 50, 60, etc mph, to get a sense of the pressure available at the front grille of the vehicle - right where those holes are.

My feelings exactly as long as the flow isn't restricted before the air box, i have taken a 3" hose and put it in all the holes on the way from the front grill to the airbox, sure there's some funny shapes and sizes on the way but all the holes seem to have a much larger diameter than the 3" inlet of the turbo. The only concern i may have is if i get to much positive pressure at the turbo how will that effect the operation of the CDR?

You'd have to put a pitot tube there with a combo pressure\vacuum gage, along with a static pressure probe, to know for sure.

Static probe is 90deg to flow, pitot for flowing pressure is inline facing flow.

Main thing is to eliminate that 90deg crook-back at the air-box outlet, imo.

Good info, so far

Me thinks i have a relatively easy solution to the squished up elbow. Just need to find a welder...

I haven't done the actuator arm adjustment yet but for the hell of it i flipped the vac hoses backwards on the selonoid, 19 psi when on it and settles out at 17 psi until rpms go above 3000 but then it only falls to 15 psi. I ran my video camera under the hood to monitor the wastegate itself, seems to be blowing open after spiking to 19 psi but was very difficult to tell as it doesn't move much to drop boost.

Cool... i now have gauge lights! (i cheated and just poked the stripped wires into the socket and put the fuse back in, i will fix that later). THANKS TD!

TD... I'm watchin the EGT's closely, not heating it up past 900F post turbo, ambients were around -20C and giving me 10 seconds in the 0-60, since it warmed up to +5 to 10 C i think i'm back to 12 seconds. Hope the bottom end can take it!! Does the 00 have splayed mains?

PVC pipe fittings and cement would get the job done - no pressure there........

I have thought about that also but hesitate because of some unknown factors, i've talked with local shops about temperature ratings on PVC and ABS, no one has been able to give me a max temp rating, i'd be worried when its 30C outside temps and idling for awhile, it gets damn hot under the hood, when you shut down the heat soak may melt the PVC and then starting up could create a problem with that garbage heading for the turbo. Anyone know the temp rating on your hardware store variety PVC?

Hmnmn...a little harder than the plastic
on underhood parts.

Hot water servce is greater than 180deg F - put a piece under the hood and check it out.

Takes sustained direct flame to melt sch 40, I've been running 3" PVC as a MAF bypass 2 years now, I have also made potato cannons/guns with it using PVC fumes as explosive propellent, spark it with camp stove or piezo electric sparker, ignite & LAUNCH A TATER ABOUT 40 YDS:D :D don't shoot the cat at close range messes them up some.

I haven't heard of or seen any factory 6.5's with splayed mains.