I'm looking into making my own Bio Processor and want some sources for some full drain cone bottom tanks. Sizes would be ~115 Gallons and ~30-35 gallons.

You guys that build your own systems, where did you get your tanks? Any tanks I should stay away from?

Thanks in advance,

Well, you'll love it when you finally get it up and going. I'm sorry I have no links to sites that sell the cone bottom tanks. I know usplastic.com and tank-depot.com, I have just browsed them. I have not personally used their sites. Lots of sites will sell the combo kits, like 115 gallon processor tank and 25 gallon inducer tank together for quite a bit of savings. This shipping on those are ridiculous.

ON EDIT: it was usplastic.com http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/category.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=20726&Page=1&utm_source=google&gclid=CKP2_-6H45ICFQksswodKAOAAA

The plastic tanks should work, many use them. I have heard of problems with them melting due to heat from the reaction (exothermic) process, not to mention the heating elements many of us use to bring the feedstock up to tempurature. I would be weary of anything less than HDPE, I do not know if MDPE will cut the mustard.

My buddy and I, built our own cone processor out of 55 gallon drum and welded homemade cone on to bottom. It’s mounted in big stand we made with 1” fitting on bottom. The cone holds 8 gallons so entire processor holds 63 gallons. A 50 gallon batch is a load, 50 gallons oil plus 11 methanol means 61 gallons, that’s not a lot of splash mix room. I think were going to have to upgraded…:rolleyes:

We are currently in search of a cone bottom inducer (methoxide mixer) and I can't find the damn website I found the best prices at.

If I get some free time tonight I could write some more, fishing trip this weekend. Sorry, if I do have any pictures they crappy.

Good luck, please don’t hesitate to ask (pm, email, thread…etc), that’s the only way we learn and you can bet that’s the way I did.

B.

Walmart :Pshyco:... Try PlasticMart.com

Here ya go.
ACE Inductor Tanks - Ideal for Wine Making & Biodiesel Production, 2.5 - 110 Gallon
http://www.tank-depot.com/product.aspx?id=854

im doing the same thing right,coping the more expensive machines on the internet, the best price with shipping so far is platic-mart.

Rick has some tanks too.

www.b100supply.com

houstonbiodiesel.com has some plans to use an hot water heater.

Try this place, they are very informative for the do it yourselfer.
http://www.biodieselcommunity.org/
They use old water heaters for tanks.

Try this place http://www.plastic-mart.com/class.php?cat=19

I found a guy that builds really nice systems with built in timers, cone bottom poly tanks, and all metal piping, the works for under $2500.00 so I'm going with his system. I can't wait. :thumb: His is nicer than anything I've found on the net and cheaper too. He's been building systems for sale and running b100 himself for over a year without problems.

$4.70 per gallon of #2, I saw on the way to work today. -:t

The problem I see with the water heaters is, how can you tell how your bio is separating from the glycerin or from the water on wash cylces if you can't see into the tank?

The problem I see with the water heaters is, how can you tell how your bio is separating from the glycerin or from the water on wash cylces if you can't see into the tank?


Sight glass on piple for water heater and clear poly tanks to wash...

Sight glass on piple for water heater and clear poly tanks to wash...

If you are buying a clear poly tank to wash, why wouldn't you just do it all in one tank?

I wouldn't take the chance on a sight glass breaking or the connections leaking and having a full waterheater of bio or waste oil all over the garage floor when I come home. JMO, but I'll stick with the sealed fittings and solid poly tanks.

If you are buying a clear poly tank to wash, why wouldn't you just do it all in one tank?

I wouldn't take the chance on a sight glass breaking or the connections leaking and having a full waterheater of bio or waste oil all over the garage floor when I come home. JMO, but I'll stick with the sealed fittings and solid poly tanks.

Conversion takes less time when the oil is warm. The insulation of the water heater helps with that. As far as the sight glass breaking, if you follow the appleseed plans the sight glass can be isolated from the system. You just use it to check your level when you fill with oil. After you have the right level you drain it and close it off. All you are dealing with as far as circulation is iron pipes and your valves. One advantage of a separate reactor (water heater) and wash tank is you can be washing one batch while processing another.

I have a 55 gallon drum with 2 hot water heater elements in it. It is also insulated. I do a 1 liter test batch first, just to make sure... then I run 30 gallons in the drum.

It's on a slight angle and I slightly dented the drum so the 2" bung is absolute bottom, I also cut down the 2" pipe so it drains great.

I did similar with my wash tank, also a 55 gallon drum.

"The problem I see with the water heaters is, how can you tell how your bio is separating from the glycerin or from the water on wash cylces if you can't see into the tank?"

you don't need to see into the tank you just have to watch your drain line for the separations. Sure it would be nice to have that feature but I have been making it without being able to see and it works just fine.