My 01 has rode rough since the day I bought it. What can I do to help this. All I have done was raise my torsion bars to be level with the rear. It rides real choppy. And I am also wanting to put some 315's on it. Possible with no lift?

Cranking the Tbars will stiffen the ride and depending on how much you went, you may be out of down travel, not good. At the very least you have decreased the down travel so when you go over a bump or something you may be bottoming out your shocks will will make it ride very rough. You can also put some Bilstein or Rancho shocks on. They help A LOT.

Whats a good place to buy the bilsteiens or rancho shocks?

A lot of the vendors:bow: on here sell them at good prices. Give them a shot.

www.kennedydiesel.com

so when you go over a bump or something you may be bottoming out your shocks will will make it ride very rough.


Not to be nitpicking or anything but wouldn't he be topping out the shocks if there's no downtravel left?

Not to be nitpicking or anything but wouldn't he be topping out the shocks if there's no downtravel left?
I new someone would call me on that:damnit1: . I guess it depends if the shaft is pointing down (bottom out) or up (top out) and I have not personally taken a stock shock apart.

The truck will ride rougher than stock with the torsion bars cranked and the yellow jounces no longer in contact with the lower control arms. The yellow jounces are an integral part of the front suspension damping. Even just two or three turns on the bars can decrease the amount of preload on the yellow jounces, thus making the ride more stiff. Having no contact of the yellow jounces with the lower control arms nets a noticeably stiffer ride.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>

I went through the same thing, trying to recover a somewhat OEM ride after cranking my bars. I've just recently finished making modifications to Timbern kit to make it engage the lower control arm. As part of the modification of the normal GMFK25S Timbren kit, I've substituted, a longer assembly bolt, 7 large flat washers, and softer (less spring rate) Timbren rubber. This softer rubber now engaging the lower control arm, much like the stock yellow jounce, has help to return a more comfortable ride to the truck.

I new someone would call me on that:damnit1: . I guess it depends if the shaft is pointing down (bottom out) or up (top out) and I have not personally taken a stock shock apart.


Hahah sorry coming from the mountain bike world topping out is when the shock or fork is extended at it's max position. Maybe it's not the same for a truck shock but no matter which way the shock is pointed on a mountain bike topped out is when it's at it's max open position. And on a MTB shock if it's not setup right it can cause a nasty top out clunk...that's always fun. Sorry got a little sidetracked there.