Just installed the Riverside Gear pump rub fix over the weekend. Saturday was cold and rainy, so it was a good day for a barn job. Two buddies helped; could have done it with one, but extra hands for tools and beer never hurts!

A few notes for those attempting either the Riverside Gear or MA upgrades.

Regardless of which version you use, the MA pictorial directions posted on their site help greatly in understanding on how to get the T-case apart. Kudos to MA! The Riverside Gear fix is even easier than the MA to install, as you don't have to disassemble the pump housing. The RG fix just drops right over the pump body!

If you're careful, you won't need to get the tranny adaptor to t-case gasket. We were easy on the removal, and the gasket didn't tear at all. Rather than use the replacment I had bought, we kept the original, and added some silicon RTV for extra measure.

When removing your driveshafts, be careful not to get overzealous with taking out the shafts; care and caution will keep your bearing cups in place and in good shape. MAKE SURE TO MARK THE RELATIONSHIP OF THE DRIVE SHAFTS, THE U-JOINTS, CARRIER BEARING, AND THE YOKES; THIS HELPS KEEP THE DRIVELINE BALANCED UPON RE-ASSEMBLY.

It helped greatly to jack the front end up and get some extra room under there. Use good jack stands. Further, we used the jack to help support the tranny after the crossmember had to come out. There is one nut on the lower adaptor stud that cannot be accessed without taking the crossmember off. If it were not for that, you could probably do it with the member in place.

Overall, it took more time to get the t-case out than it did to actually install the fix in the t-case. Total time for us was 4 hours, and we were loafing. If we had to do it again, knowing all the correct tool sizes and maybe not drinking as much beer along the way, it could be a two hour job.

Once it was all back together, we did let it sit overnight to allow the RTV to set up on the t-case halves. Filled and drove out the next morning. No problems whatsoever.

If you don't have pump rub (yet), do yourself a favor and get this done before it becomes a bigger problem for you on the roadside somewhere.

One note on the transfer case removal. You don't have to remove the transmission cross member when removing the transfer case. There is one nut on the lower portion of the transfer case that is almost totally blocked by the transmission mount. Remove the bolts from the transmission mount, and use a floor jack with a board on it to jack the transmission / engine assembly up high enouth to get to the lower nut.

Chris

Kinda like this?

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140732

Always good to do a different view on the process,

Just installed the Riverside Gear pump rub fix over the weekend. Saturday was cold and rainy, so it was a good day for a barn job. Two buddies helped; could have done it with one, but extra hands for tools and beer never hurts!

A few notes for those attempting either the Riverside Gear or MA upgrades.

Regardless of which version you use, the MA pictorial directions posted on their site help greatly in understanding on how to get the T-case apart. Kudos to MA! The Riverside Gear fix is even easier than the MA to install, as you don't have to disassemble the pump housing. The RG fix just drops right over the pump body!

If you're careful, you won't need to get the tranny adaptor to t-case gasket. We were easy on the removal, and the gasket didn't tear at all. Rather than use the replacment I had bought, we kept the original, and added some silicon RTV for extra measure.

When removing your driveshafts, be careful not to get overzealous with taking out the shafts; care and caution will keep your bearing cups in place and in good shape. MAKE SURE TO MARK THE RELATIONSHIP OF THE DRIVE SHAFTS, THE U-JOINTS, CARRIER BEARING, AND THE YOKES; THIS HELPS KEEP THE DRIVELINE BALANCED UPON RE-ASSEMBLY.

It helped greatly to jack the front end up and get some extra room under there. Use good jack stands. Further, we used the jack to help support the tranny after the crossmember had to come out. There is one nut on the lower adaptor stud that cannot be accessed without taking the crossmember off. If it were not for that, you could probably do it with the member in place.

Overall, it took more time to get the t-case out than it did to actually install the fix in the t-case. Total time for us was 4 hours, and we were loafing. If we had to do it again, knowing all the correct tool sizes and maybe not drinking as much beer along the way, it could be a two hour job.

Once it was all back together, we did let it sit overnight to allow the RTV to set up on the t-case halves. Filled and drove out the next morning. No problems whatsoever.

If you don't have pump rub (yet), do yourself a favor and get this done before it becomes a bigger problem for you on the roadside somewhere.

I am curious where you got the kit and how much it costs. Google didn't give me anything.....

I am curious where you got the kit and how much it costs. Google didn't give me anything.....



Look for kennedy's, a vendor on this site, they have then for like 60 bucks or so...

Look for kennedy's, a vendor on this site, they have then for like 60 bucks or so...

60 bucks? really? thats pretty damn cheap if thats the case, gonna have to check into it. i was lucky enough to get a first hand demo of the process when i was up at erics picking up my truck after the tranny build. if i wasnt so broke at the time i would have just had him install it but its not too hard of a job. one thing he made sure to tell me was to hold the clip on the shaft inside the tcase with a screwdriver so when you split the case you dont run the risk of the internals sliding out.

just checked kennedys site and they do have it for only $50. my question is this as complete a fix as erics kit? just seems that the price being soo much cheaper that something must be different.

The reason the M/A kit is so much more is that their kit is very intensive as far as a machined part. It's a quality piece, to be sure.

I think the decision to be made is whether or not you've experienced pump rub yet. I only had about 10k miles or so on my truck; I did this as a pre-emptive move. In this case, the Kennedy or Riverside fixes are great. They are cut/stamped parts that will eliminate the problem BEFORE it happens. The M/A will achieve the same result, but it costs a large portion more. In this case, I don't think the job necessitates the M/A kit, but others disagree with me.

If I had a t/c that had a hole in it from pump rub, then I'd get the M/A kit for sure. It's more robust. In this case, I think the design is worth the extra money.

I should have added that the M/A kit is so complete because they include not only a high quality machined part, but also the loctite, gastket, and such to do the job.

The others are just the stamped/cut/bent metal. They are a lot less money because they provide a lot less items. Don't confuse "cheap" with inexpensive. These options work perfectly fine, and will last indefinitely. They just cost less because there is less content.

My point was that if you're doing this pre-emptively, you won't need the more expensive kit and stuff. For one, you won't need loctite because the solution is designed differently. Also, I bought a spare gasket from the dealer, but I ended up returning it because the stock one was fine because I used care in removing the t/c.

I did use the very well written instructions from the M/A website for my guide. They deserve all the praise they get for their efforts.

I should have added that the M/A kit is so complete because they include not only a high quality machined part, but also the loctite, gastket, and such to do the job.

The others are just the stamped/cut/bent metal. They are a lot less money because they provide a lot less items. Don't confuse "cheap" with inexpensive. These options work perfectly fine, and will last indefinitely. They just cost less because there is less content.

My point was that if you're doing this pre-emptively, you won't need the more expensive kit and stuff. For one, you won't need loctite because the solution is designed differently. Also, I bought a spare gasket from the dealer, but I ended up returning it because the stock one was fine because I used care in removing the t/c.

I did use the very well written instructions from the M/A website for my guide. They deserve all the praise they get for their efforts.


I Agree, if I were to be doing a pre-emptive fix, I would go with Riverside Gears Plate, but I had a hole, so I went with M/A's Housing, and used a good dab of JB weld in the webbing, 20+ thousand miles and all is well, but I just would not trust the plate in the case with the divits dug in it.

50 bucks is a CHEAP pre-emtive fix in my opinion!

I found the plate on Kennedy's website- where are the other sources?