I want to remove my emblems, whats works the best to get the glue off the paint without doing any damage?
I used a heat gun but still have glue that refuses to come off!

I have heard many different methods but I think that to really get it all off without damage you have to be patient and use your thumb to "roll" the glue off. I soaked the remaining glue with some goo-gone and then applied heat with a hair dryer to dry it up a big and then use my thumb to roll it off in one direction. It is a a bit more time consuming than I liked and my thumb ended up with a blister or 2 but the end result makes it worth it. Good luck.

A good tacky duct tape like Nashua 357, will lift off adhesive goo. Hold a 6-8inch section in both hands and simply dabb and lift over and over with your thumbs close in the center for strength. A little heat from a hair dryer or heat gun does help.

use easy off oven cleaner no harm done.:)

If you're in a warm climate and you have a dark color, just park the truck with the side facing the sun for about and hour and then peel them off and then turn it around and repeat on the other side. Use a little rubbing alcohol or even WD40 to remove any residual "sticky" and then give it a bath.

All body shops use it. Will not hurt gel coat or paint, wipe on and off, then hit with some wax and you are good to go. I removed all mine and cleaned with it. Any automobile paint supply house will stock it.

Decals off the rear quarter panel come up with just a hair dryer... no residue... but the badges - that's another story. I was using "Goof-Off" at first - but was worried about it damaging the paint... and I was told by Sal Zaino (www.zainostore.com) to use WD-40 on the badges. Keep spring it on the top edge of the badge and let it soak down. I used a rag to wipe/catch the excess below the badge. After spraying and soaking around the badge for about 10 minutes.. i used a hair dryer and a plastic spatula to slowly lift off the badge. This method took the entire badge off the truck - and left little to NO sticky stuff on the truck. It came off so nice - i stuck the badges on my stainless steel tool chest in the Garage - everyone wants to know where i bought my GMC Duramax Tool Chest from!

I took the first one off the hard way - by leaving all the residue on and trying to roll it off w/my fingers - that was a 60 minute job. Spending 15 minutes patiently letting the WD-40 soak into the foam behind the badge did it for me.

Also - when i did it- it did seem to leave a shiny spot in the shape of the decal - which concerned me. Before you try buffing it out - let it sit for about a week. The first side - i spent 2 hours trying to buff it out with no luck. The second side i didn't have time - so i just left it - it eventually went away...

I have used windex real quick. Takes it out quickly. Then I follow it with a small wax job over the area, Eagle One Wet wax from Walmart. Comes out pretty clean.

I have used the Eagle One Wet wax for many years. I first started when I had hard water stains from my parents sprinkler system, in FL, on my 95 Impala SS. The detail shop said that they would have to use rubbing compound in order to get it out. I used 2 coats of the Wet and it was as good as new. Plus the vehicle appeared as it was wet all the time. The only thing I can think of is it has some type of cleaning agent within the wax.

I tried that Wet Wax...left my truck lookin like chit..whats the best thing to do?

I deleted my 4X4 decals when I ordered my truck.:) Option 9R1-Decal Pickup Boxside Delete (SEO).
I know this won't help those that already have them, but for those thinking about ordering a new truck.
You can also delete all emblems, ie; Sierra-GMC etc.
Something you must ask about when you order.;)

I use a thing called an eraser wheel. It can be purchased at paint and body supply stores. It fits into the end of your drill, and makes removing that grey adhesive real easy. I have used it on black and other dark colors without any damage to the paint. Just make sure the surface is clean before you start. I believe it is made by 3M. For instance it takes me about 8-10 min to completely debadge a duramax, both doors and tailgate.

Someone about six months ago had a link to another site where the guy was using fishing line or dental floss to remove the emblems. Then I think he used naptha to remove the stickey stuff left behind. Lighter fluid is about the same as naptha. or that is what I have heard.

I use a thing called an eraser wheel.Bought an eraser wheel to de-badge, let me tell you it works great... BUT it works better when it has been used for a while and the edge gets a nice 45 degree angle on it. Find it at Eastwoodco.com, only $15. De-badged 2 D-max's today and plenty left!
2Blue

Use an eraser wheel..fits into and drill, can be found on any mac or snapon truck, or even some auto parts stores.This thing works freakin great..use mine on lots of stuff..

All body shops use it. Will not hurt gel coat or paint, wipe on and off, then hit with some wax and you are good to go. I removed all mine and cleaned with it. Any automobile paint supply house will stock it.
The 3M stuff works very well. Removed all my badges/decals with it. I just pulled back the front of the emblem as much as I could then pour some of this stuff on the door and let it run down and soak into the adhesive ...let it sit for a few minutes then pull badge back some more and repeat. When I was done I had very little to no gue on the door what so ever. Time consuming and a pain in the butt but it worked well.

You could try an order it that way, but when I ordered mine I went to a short bed instead of a long bed and when I got it six months later it did not have the rear defroster/heated mirrors. I was upset about it but I did not want to wait another six months.
Less confusion for them the better. You may end up with 6.0 instead of the 6.6.

Take dental floss and "SAW" between emblem and body of truck. Works like a charm. Use 3m as stated above for glue or Good ol' Diesel fuel for the glue. Use Zymol cleaner after that with Zymol WAX at the end.