Ok everyone I have an 06 cc/sb 4x4 LBZ and brakes just suck! Used to be awesome and if pushed too hard you had to peel your nose off the windshield! But not anymore, thought the brakes were bad so I put new front rotors and pads on and they are still real soft. If you need them in a hurry the pedal goes to the floor and pulling is really scary!! Need to get fixed ASAP! Due to I am ready to go camping!!!:eek: ANY HELP??????

Check and lube the caliper slides. I'd bet money on that being your problem.

Yup the calipers. Make sure the pads can slide around in there. They should just about fall out.

I take mine apart 2x a year. You will get a lot more mileage out of them.

Good luck,

I have this issue with my 02. Where exactly should be lubed? Any pics/links to help us out? Thanks

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146597&highlight=another+soft+brake

Post #7. I'm tired of typing.

If this is so common, it should be stickied or put in a FAQ

If this is so common, it should be stickied or put in a FAQ
I'm tired of typing that too................:confused:

Also forgot to ask, do you have pics? I don't know exactly what you're talking about where to lube. Thanks

The caliper itself is secured to the ear with TWO glide bolts. It is these two bolts that require synthetic brake grease. An even smear on them is sufficient. Too much grease and it won't go back together right. DO NOT USE NEVRSIEZE as it will destroy the dust boot and the rubber sleeve down inside the bore (it effective glues the pins in). Now, 9 outta 10 times, the glide bolts are dry but will still allow movement.

The main culprit is the cast steel ear that supports the pads. It grows corrosion underneath the stainless rattle/ slide shims. This is the part that requires removal of the ear from the spindle. The pads should be slip fit. 99 outta 100 times, the pads are swelled solid in place, due to corrosion and production tolerances on the pads themselves. Remove the ear and, with a light on the side of the ear opposite you, inspect the area for interference. Sometimes it's the flat surface, sometimes it's the camel hump. Clean the corrosion out 'til the pads slip fit. OR, THE REDNECK WAY is to leave the ear on the truck and grind the ends of the pad 'til slip fit. Either way, they should slide freely when installing them, and try not to remove too much material, especially at the camel hump as the pads can flip out, in service, if the hump is gone.

The ear to spindle/axle bolts are to torqued to 145 ft/lbs and always use blue Loctite. And when you get to rear slide bolts, only the lower T55 has to be pulled and then the caliper can be tilted all the way up and rotated out of place. You'll know what I mean when you tear the rears down.

I had the same problem and followed heymccall's advice to the letter and it made a HUGE difference. Thanks again heymccall. you're a lifesaver. (btw if people would just take some time and do a forum search it would save a lot of typing for everyone. Ok, I'll get off my soap box now;-))

Okay I guess I am very stupid since I can't search the site for this and not sure what you mean to do!

You are saying correct me if I am wrong! Pull the caliper bolts grease them and put them back and that should fix my problem? Pads come out real easy already!!

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146597&highlight=another+soft+brake

Post #7. I'm tired of typing.

He already saved you the hassle of searching...

Okay I guess I am very stupid since I can't search the site for this and not sure what you mean to do!

You are saying correct me if I am wrong! Pull the caliper bolts grease them and put them back and that should fix my problem? Pads come out real easy already!!

How do you know the pads come out easy???

The only way to know it to compress the the caliper piston, which would reveal whether the caliper is free to slide on the glide bolts.

I'm only gonna type this one more time.

1 compress the caliper with a C-Clamp over the out pad and the rear of the caliper.
2 slide the caliper in and out (it should glide freely)
3 slide each pad in out (they should move with one finger)
4 pump the brake pedal to extend that piston back to normal and repeat for each corner (if you don't pump it back to normal, brake fluid will leave the master cylinder, creating a mess under the hood)


As for searching, go to advanced search, type "soft brake", change the search option right below it to search Titles Only and then scroll down and press the Search Now icon. In this case, the thread I linked to is the first one listed and is the one to use. Double check the other threads to ensure they are for a '99 and newer truck (remember there were OBS trucks in the 2500 and 3500 series 'til '02, and these truck have the pads retained to the caliper itself, not the ear beneath).

I know the pads come out easy because when I took the caliper off, which came off real easy the pads came right out of their cradle! And I could put the caliper right back on the brakes even after I took the pads off and back on! Sorry that you have to keep typing this but like someone else has said picture would help a bunch especially for us stupid people!!!

I know the pads come out easy because when I took the caliper off, which came off real easy the pads came right out of their cradle! And I could put the caliper right back on the brakes even after I took the pads off and back on! Sorry that you have to keep typing this but like someone else has said picture would help a bunch especially for us stupid people!!!


Alright, let's cover the basics.

Soft pedal and excessive travel have three typical causes:
1) air in the system
2) defective master cylinder
3) binding hardware

With that said:
1) Have you ever opened a bleeder or changed any component that holds fluid (caliper, hose, master cylinder)????

2) Does the ABS activate prematurely? (a bad master cylinder would apply more force to one end or the other, promoting early lockup).

3) Since you didn't expressly say you examined all four corners, let's examine them more closely.
a) Why did you change front pads and whose did you install? Some brands have a different compound and will affect performance but not pedal travel.
b) Are the inner and outer pads at any one corner the same thickness? The tattle tale indication of binding hardware is one pad thicker than the other or tapered wear. Any corner with this abnormal pattern will cause and soft pedal and excessive travel.
c) What condition were the rotors in? Binding rear brakes will cause the front to develop surface checking and, in extreme cases, bluing or cracking. If any corner is not working correctly, 9 times outta 10, the swept area of the rotor will not be smooth, and, in extreme cases, will develop rust and scale.
Take a spirited drive and measure the temp at each corner by placing a hand on the plastic wheel center cap. My preferrred method is to use an inexpensive infrared laser thermometer. While the rears will be slightly cooler than the fronts, there should be no appreciable difference side to side. Also, front pad life vs. the rear pad life, IMHE (In My Humble Experience), will show wear to be about the same. Typically, the rear brakes need changed within 8k miles of changing the front.

hey,

Thanks for writting this up. Wifes car had the stuck pad issue and ate up the pad down to the backing in a week.

Also, rotors / pads for 4 corners are scheduled for delivery tomorrow for the 2500 so this is super good timing.

Unfortunately, I didn't understand the maintenance needs of the brakes soon enough and the backs are toast due to corrosion. That's why new rotors. All 4 corners as there is an upgrade to drilled and slotted and after stopping with just fronts for a while they are suspect.


Any hints / issues on the parking brakes? I have not diddled with parking brakes on rear disks....

Thanks again!

jb

Any

No I didn't change all 4 change the front because that was the normal fix for me! Usually fixed the issues! Never opened anything in the brake system but the brake fluid res. Abs light has never came on. never had the abs surge or whatever you want to call it for the abs coming on. I used wagner pads and rotors. Pads looked the same to me but didn't measure! pads had some cracking on them. Rotor surfaces look fine looked at the back ones yesterday when they put my new rims and tires on. Pads on front didn't really need replaced but I thought they were my problem but as you very well know it is NOT!!! should I drive a little and put on my parking brake for the rears or does that help? I am gonna get with a buddy that does brakes and see if he has any ideas! I printed off your fix and I will take to him an see what happens!!!

No I didn't change all 4 change the front because that was the normal fix for me! Usually fixed the issues! Never opened anything in the brake system but the brake fluid res. Abs light has never came on. never had the abs surge or whatever you want to call it for the abs coming on. I used wagner pads and rotors. Pads looked the same to me but didn't measure! pads had some cracking on them. Rotor surfaces look fine looked at the back ones yesterday when they put my new rims and tires on. Pads on front didn't really need replaced but I thought they were my problem but as you very well know it is NOT!!! should I drive a little and put on my parking brake for the rears or does that help? I am gonna get with a buddy that does brakes and see if he has any ideas! I printed off your fix and I will take to him an see what happens!!!
So, reading this correctly, the front pads are slip fit and you used synthetic brake grease on the glide bolts and saw no difference in braking. I gonna assume the front are in working order, SO..........to the rear.

Same process as the front. Slip fit pads and good lube on the glide bolts. Most of the time it is corrosion at the rear. AGAIN, since you didn't use expletives about the rear T55 bolts, I know you haven't take them apart. DO IT.

PS... The parking brake is totally unrelated to road brake operation and performance.

And, IF YOU'RE NOT CHECKING ALL FOUR CORNERS WHEN REPAIRING BRAKES, ESPECIALLY PERFORMANCE RELATED REPAIRS, HANG UP YOUR WRENCHES AND LET SOMEONE DO IT:rolleyes:.

Oh, wait a minute, I've never paid to have brakes repaired/ replaced on any vehicle and had them done right:mad::mad::mad:. Even on a 70k dollar Lexus. I guess the old adage is true. IF YOU WANT IT DONE RIGHT, YOU'VE GOT TO DO IT YOURSELF.

So i checked things out this does not appear to be my issue. Everything checked out good. Any other suggestions?

have not checked rears and had to take the front and have done because couldn't get those loose either even with 1/2inch impact but I will try and attack the reara and go from there!!!! Thanks for all your hassle!!!

have not checked rears and had to take the front and have done because couldn't get those loose either even with 1/2inch impact but I will try and attack the reara and go from there!!!! Thanks for all your hassle!!!


Pay attention and same yourself some grief at the rear.

#1 quality tools are a must. You will need a C-Clamp that fits over the caliper, a good 18mm and 21mm 6point shallow (normal depth socket, I can't recall which size is needed), a GOOD quality T55 torx socket that fits 1/2 drive, and at least an 18" (if not longer) breaker bar.

1) C-Clamp the caliper and outer pad to collapse the piston.
2) Remove only the lower T55 headed glide bolt.
3) Swing the caliper up from the rotor (pivoting on the top bolt)
4) Slide the caliper toward the frame, past the rotor, and when it reaches the frame of the truck, ROTATE the upper pin out of it's hole.
5) Support the caliper so it's not hanging by it's hose.
6) Now, check the pads for SLIP-FIT and the glide bolts for lube.

The rest is in the link, and please don't think I'm mad at anybody for asking questions. How do you think I learned. Ask away. As for the bolts being tight, they(the 18/21mm ones) are torqued to 145lb/ft and Loctited. Don't be afraid to use a cheater pipe to break them loose or even a 1 minute application of heat to the bolt head itself with a propane torch. Heat is the recommend technique to allow loosening of loctited bolts, BUT don't melt the rubber around the slides.

Well, it's friday. Are you gonna attempt to solve our problem with your brakes?

Hey sorry, didn't mean to offend anyone. I was just grumpy that day. Seriously clean the pad shims and the mounts under them with a wire brush. The pads should slide freely on the mounts.

waiting for some extra musle to get them broke loose!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This is prolly my issue too. I may have to go to the shop this evening to work on it. How long of process am I looking at? We're gettting ready for spring and tnak pulling season is coming up and with no brakes on the tanks I don't wanna slide through any intersections b/c my foot is on the floor.

waiting for some extra musle to get them broke loose!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I was working on the backs yesterday and broke the T55!!! I don't feel any difference so far, but haven't had a chance to touch the fronts yet.

#1 quality tools are a must. You will need a C-Clamp that fits over the caliper, a good 18mm and 21mm 6point shallow (normal depth socket, I can't recall which size is needed), a GOOD quality T55 torx socket that fits 1/2 drive, and at least an 18" (if not longer) breaker bar.

Any recommendations on a good quality short T55 socket?
I have a USA made, (brand ??), and a Craftsman chrome socket, both with a black steel T55 inserted, but they are too long to fit between spring pack when installed on a breaker bar.
I had a Lisle 1/2" T55 that was all made out of one piece of steel, (only cost about $6), that was shorter and fit between springs, but after removing four rear brakes, the Torx tip is worn out.
I believe this one piece design is too soft, as opposed to hardened black steel.

Any recommendations on a good quality short T55 socket?
I have a USA made, (brand ??), and a Craftsman chrome socket, both with a black steel T55 inserted, but they are too long to fit between spring pack when installed on a breaker bar.
I had a Lisle 1/2" T55 that was all made out of one piece of steel, (only cost about $6), that was shorter and fit between springs, but after removing four rear brakes, the Torx tip is worn out.
I believe this one piece design is too soft, as opposed to hardened black steel.
Once again, do not remove the PITA top bolt, follow my instruction above. Remove it after dissassembly by heating the location only if it's in questionable shape. Otherwise, don't touch it. So.........your long T55 will work, if you follow #2,3,and 4 in my last step by step in post #22, right above this post.

My truck has a slight shake to it when braking, replaced the front rotors and pads before winter and it never fixed the problem. Now that it's warmer and i have the time i'm trying to remove the rear rotors but they won't budge. I'm guessing it has something to do with the e-brakes? Any input would help, thanks.

heymccall, thanks for posting(again I guess) this good info. I'm trying to compile some of this relevant info and collect it all in one place in the hopes it may help others. This place is so information rich that its difficult at times to find the basics. Thanks again - great instructions and info!

i am a little late getting into this thread - but i did read what 'heymccall' posted on the other thread about cleaning & lubing the caliper pins and i am wondering if that is my problem.
the calipers are lesss than 2 years old and they are just like the oem ones that came on my 87 van - no computer or anything like that and my guess is that i have a totally different braking system than most people here with the duramax's etc.
could that still be an issue with the brakes i have? Right now i have to push the pedal almost to the floor to get good braking and it was not always like that. I have bled all the lines and it does not seem like there is air in them.
any opinions appreciated.
thanks,
paul

i am a little late getting into this thread - but i did read what 'heymccall' posted on the other thread about cleaning & lubing the caliper pins and i am wondering if that is my problem.
the calipers are lesss than 2 years old and they are just like the oem ones that came on my 87 van - no computer or anything like that and my guess is that i have a totally different braking system than most people here with the duramax's etc.
could that still be an issue with the brakes i have? Right now i have to push the pedal almost to the floor to get good braking and it was not always like that. I have bled all the lines and it does not seem like there is air in them.
any opinions appreciated.
thanks,
paul
A 1987 P van will have the pads mounted to the caliper itself. So......remove the 3/8 allen headed slide bolts and their sleeves should friction fit through their bore. Using the correct lube goes a long way. No Neversieze. If you have excessive pedal travel though, I'd be looking at the rear adjustment first. Try starting another thread. Something like "P30 brakes are horrible."

Well, it got warm enough to start to tackle the brakes on the truck. Hope you don't mind my hyjack and adding some pictures and commentary ...

I re-read the tips from Heymccall and laid out the parts & tools, uh except that my Torx set stops at T50! Trip to the tool store for a T55, which they were out of, but the auto parts store had them.

After getting the rear axle down on the jack stands and the bolts off of the left rear wheel, I found the rim sticky to the axle. Quick tap on the tires with the 8lb sledge on opposite sides and the rim popped off. I had never siezed it a couple years ago, but didn't refresh it when the new tires were put on. After the tire was off the carnage caused by the salty wisconsin winters was all too obvious. (Pics below).

The Torx bolt on the bottom was pretty easy and the air gun zipped it out with little trouble. Rotating the caliper 1/2 up allowed it to easily be slipped out past the spring with the top Torx still in place. Good tip! The bottom 18mm bolt came out pretty easy too. The top bolt was not so nice. There just ain't no leverage and I'm old and weak! Had to use my hat holder and used the floor jack to push up the breaker bar. Worked pretty good, but slow. (Not sure what the deal will be on the other side as it's hard to jack stuff down!). Anyway, got the bolt off. About 30-45 min at this point into the job. The hardest part of the whole job was getting the stupid rotor off of the parking brake pads! Took about an hour of pounding and cussing and pounding and more cussing. You can see the rust crunchies that dropped off from the pounding. The inside of the rotor was not even scored up, but there was a rim of rust around the edge like salt on a margarita.


Next, the new rotor slipped on nice an easy. Looks pretty too as it has a bright galvanized finish to resist rust. However, the pads were a wee little bit too long to fit even after taking off the stainless deals and cleaning all the rust off behind there and coating with paint. Spend an hour diddling around with them getting them to slip fit nice and not take too much off. Actually, spent 50 min on the first one and 10 min on the second pad!

The rest went on pretty easy, but there isn't much extra room with the new pads! Man the old ones were about ready to hit the backer! Here's the pics. I spend about 4 hours on the one corner! Am hoping that the others go quicker. I will have to get a new 18mm short as the only one I had is no longer usable. Ah the fun side of salting the roads!

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c201/john_bud/Truck/CIMG3706.jpg
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c201/john_bud/Truck/CIMG3707.jpg
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c201/john_bud/Truck/CIMG3708.jpg
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c201/john_bud/Truck/CIMG3709.jpg
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c201/john_bud/Truck/CIMG3712.jpg
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c201/john_bud/Truck/CIMG3713.jpg
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c201/john_bud/Truck/CIMG3715.jpg
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c201/john_bud/Truck/CIMG3717.jpg
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c201/john_bud/Truck/CIMG3718.jpg


Well, snit!!!

I just actually "LOOKED" at my own pictures and noticed that I think I managed to put the R rotor on the L side. Oh boy - what a chuckle head! Looks like I have a bit of a quick flip ahead of me tomorrow! D-oh!! I had the parts all lined up and everything, before having to head out and get the T55. Must have dropped those brain cells off at the store!

Oh well.... Live and learn, die and forget it all.

Chit happens!:)

My backs are great but the fronts are a disaster I think... thats the only way they could be as weak as they are. Can't wait to dive in tomorrow or the next day!

Well after breaking the T55 and the 18mm and making 2 trips into town for parts (and jacking up and jacking back down) the truck the backs are done.

Oddly enough it took about 4 more hours with all the tool issues and I had to get a stronger impact to undo the T55 that had been off the day before. Wierd. Lucky my neighbor has a stronger impact so that didn't take too long. The Drivers side took under an hour, including swapping tires front to back. A big part was the parking brakes were not dragging so bad and the rotor came off in about 2 minutes! That was nice.

Now if the rain will hold off, the fronts are next! When I swapped the tires it was obvous that the front rotors are not anywhere near as bad as the rears were. Hopefully, they will be closer to an hour each side.

Aside from the severely rusted parts, it's not that bad of a job. But it would be a PITA without a strong impact!!!


jb

Well after breaking the T55 and the 18mm and making 2 trips into town for parts (and jacking up and jacking back down) the truck the backs are done.

Oddly enough it took about 4 more hours with all the tool issues and I had to get a stronger impact to undo the T55 that had been off the day before. Wierd. Lucky my neighbor has a stronger impact so that didn't take too long. The Drivers side took under an hour, including swapping tires front to back. A big part was the parking brakes were not dragging so bad and the rotor came off in about 2 minutes! That was nice.

Now if the rain will hold off, the fronts are next! When I swapped the tires it was obvous that the front rotors are not anywhere near as bad as the rears were. Hopefully, they will be closer to an hour each side.

Aside from the severely rusted parts, it's not that bad of a job. But it would be a PITA without a strong impact!!!


jb
I can only imagine how much better the brakes will perform now. Glad it's working out.

My backs are great but the fronts are a disaster I think... thats the only way they could be as weak as they are. Can't wait to dive in tomorrow or the next day!
The rear brakes are as integral to stopping well as the front. Either one (or any of the four) binding and the whole system performs poorly.

Thanks heymccall did mine today workt real good:):)

Do you suggest using brake cleaner to clean out the gunk thats on everything before?

Do you suggest using brake cleaner to clean out the gunk thats on everything before?
The only time I recall using Brake-Klean is when I did a leaking axle seal.

You going to do that write-up for the DIY section?

You going to do that write-up for the DIY section?
I'm what you call a Jack of all trades here. I find it difficult to find enough time to do the whole write up at this time. I have over 60 pieces of off-road machinery, along with over 100 attachments, to keep running, along with 36 licensed vehicles. Perhaps, once I get past the Spring-time teething pains. Just two guys here to do it all, me and a welder/parts changer.

I'm what you call a Jack of all trades here. I find it difficult to find enough time to do the whole write up at this time. I have over 60 pieces of off-road machinery, along with over 100 attachments, to keep running, along with 36 licensed vehicles. Perhaps, once I get past the Spring-time teething pains. Just two guys here to do it all, me and a welder/parts changer.

Wow thats awesome! What business are you in?

Wow thats awesome! What business are you in?
Municipal size sanitary sewer projects, with a little dabbling into water line and other buried utilities.

heymccall,

I'm doing the front brakes and one rubber boot that protects the slider bolt is ripped and letting the bolt rust. Is that rubber boot a replaceable item or do I have to replace that braket deal (what the heck is it called anyway?).

Funny thing, the corner with the rusty slider has the most uniform wear and the least amount of pad wear.

jb

heymccall,

I'm doing the front brakes and one rubber boot that protects the slider bolt is ripped and letting the bolt rust. Is that rubber boot a replaceable item or do I have to replace that braket deal (what the heck is it called anyway?).

Funny thing, the corner with the rusty slider has the most uniform wear and the least amount of pad wear.

jb
IIRC, they can be had at an auto parts store, but I got 'em from GM before. They are seperate items from the hardware kits listed. They should also include the rubber sleeve hiding further down in. To remove the sleeve, I use a long sheet metal/wood screw that is just larger than the narrow part of the slider bolt. The boot just pries off. To put the new boot in, find a 12pt socket that is as large as the outside of the boot ring, place it over the boot, and tap it home with a hammer.

If it's gonna take a while to get the boot, lube the bolt well and put her back together 'til you get it.

****!!! I just rear-ended someone today because I couldn't slam the brakes. She stopped in front of me as we were pulling away from a light and I nailed her.

Dam that sucks, talk about a day too late. :(

That is a bummer!

jb

Finally got to the rear brakes today! Pins were dry and some rust one the pins! Having the rotors turned and as he had them off found the drivers side axle seal was leaking so had to replace both of those so I hope I am done for a while!!! Will let you know how they work when I get it back!!!

Well got the truck back and brakes are a little better but still not the way they were before!!! My guy followed hemcalls instructions all the way and still?????????? NOW WHAT????????

Well got the truck back and brakes are a little better but still not the way they were before!!! My guy followed hemcalls instructions all the way and still?????????? NOW WHAT????????

My guy followed my instructions, too.:banghead: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=238828.

Define your specific problem for me again. Did your guy do all four corners? Did the pads slip fit? Did he use synthetic brake grease, in moderation? Were the slide bolts corrosion free?

My guy followed my instructions, too.:banghead: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=238828.

Define your specific problem for me again. Did your guy do all four corners? Did the pads slip fit? Did he use synthetic brake grease, in moderation? Were the slide bolts corrosion free?


The only way to tell if the instructions were followed is to actually do it yourself. Doing it "right" takes more time. Assuming that it was done right, as the brakes wear in and you get full contact the stopping power should get better.

jb

I have read several posts, including all of this one. Its great info, but I am not sure what to do first.
Heres my specific conditions... Pedal not as firm as I remember

2005 Silverado 2500HD.
96,000 miles.
had leaky rear axle seal replaced twice on drivers side.
pedal is slightly softer than I remember.
Put new pads on just last week, (originals lasted 95,000 miles).
didnt have rotors turned, should I?
Didnt bleed system at all, should I have fluid flushed?

Thanks in advance
Ron

I have read several posts, including all of this one. Its great info, but I am not sure what to do first.
Heres my specific conditions... Pedal not as firm as I remember

2005 Silverado 2500HD.
96,000 miles.
had leaky rear axle seal replaced twice on drivers side.
pedal is slightly softer than I remember.
Put new pads on just last week, (originals lasted 95,000 miles).
didnt have rotors turned, should I?
Didnt bleed system at all, should I have fluid flushed?

Thanks in advance
Ron

Pedal firmness (or lack of) is most likely binding of the caliper or pad in the holder. This can occur at any of the four corners, and it only takes one to diminish performance.
Flushing is a good maintenance practice, but to have it done properly, a computer (Tech II) must be attached to open the ABS valves. That is the only way to do it correctly.
A leaking rear axle seal will typically not affect regular braking, but rather the parking brake performance.
Turning the rotors is a good practice too, but again not necessary.
Certain aftermarket pads offer different performance, but again, binding brake components is where I'd go first.

Hi Heymccall
I have read tons of info from this site on brakes. Your insifgt on brakes are very helpful. Its this kind of help and experience that makes this site literally Priceless. So many people at local shops and dealers just dont have a clue.
Good news is, My brakes are right again. I had the system flushed at a dealer. The dealer didnt think this would help, mechanic there drove my truck before flushing system and said brakes felt ok. I insisted they flush per bulletin with upgraded DOT 3 fluid. I just had this done this morning. Made all the difference in the world, pedal is hard and brakes stop like a brand new truck!! This is the bulletin you posted ...


Found this, does this sound like something you guys are dealing with?



#PIT3779F: Squeak Noise On Brake Apply - keywords booster cylinder disc drum fluid front master rub - (Mar 25, 2008)
http://gsi.xw.gm.com/image_en_us/gif/000/999/999/999999995.gif Subject:Squeak Noise On Brake Apply
Models:2004-2007 Buick Rainier

2007-2008 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT

2007-2008 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe

2004-2006 Chevrolet SSR

2004-2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer, Trailblazer EXT and Trailblazer SS

2005-2007 Chevrolet Silverado Classic with RPO JF3 or JF7

2004-2008 GMC Envoy, Envoy XL and Envoy XUV

2007-2008 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon Denali, Yukon XL, Yukon Denali XL

2005-2007 GMC Sierra Classic with RPO JF3 or JF7

This PI was superseded to update models and Part Numbres. Please discard PIT3779E.
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:

(http://gsi.xw.gm.com/si/showDoc.do?docSyskey=2085649&from=sm#ss1-2085649)Owners may comment of a squeak noise when the brake pedal is applied or released. This noise is normally heard when the brake pedal is slowly applied with the engine on or off but may also occur when the brake pedal is released. The noise may be isolated to the master cylinder area.
Recommendation/Instructions:

(http://gsi.xw.gm.com/si/showDoc.do?docSyskey=2085649&from=sm#ss2-2085649)To correct this concern, flush the hydraulic brake system with a new and improved GM DOT 3 brake fluid, Part Number 88862806 (Canada 88862807). Remove as much of the old brake fluid from the master cylinder as possible and refill with the new fluid. Use the proper "Hydraulic Brake System Bleed" procedure in SI and flush out the old brake fluid. After completing the bleed procedure, fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum fill level with the new brake fluid.
Note: The noise may not be completely eliminated after the flush procedure. It may take several brake applies before the noise is completely eliminated.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

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Great info. I think I have the same issue with the caliper not sliding in and out freely. While applying the brakes, just before the truck comes to a stop, it feels like the brakes let go and then I have to push the pedal quite hard to make the truck stop. It's like something is telling the system to release the pressure at the last second. I haven't looked/pulled anything apart yet but if you think I might have the same issue, I'll try your procedure this weekend.

Ohhh man these brakes are becoming a PITA. I've got a few questions about them:

1) What would cause bad squeaking?

2) When gliding, I can hear a clicking noise that sounds like when you drag a rake on asphalt.

3) How do i get out a DAMN STRIPPED T55 SCREW?!?!?!

Thanks guys! As its been said before, this site is PRICELESS!

Great info. I think I have the same issue with the caliper not sliding in and out freely. While applying the brakes, just before the truck comes to a stop, it feels like the brakes let go and then I have to push the pedal quite hard to make the truck stop. It's like something is telling the system to release the pressure at the last second. I haven't looked/pulled anything apart yet but if you think I might have the same issue, I'll try your procedure this weekend.
You have a bad WSS (wheel speed sensor), corrosion under the WSS, or a bad wheel bearing (causing false signals to the ABS controller). GM issued a recall for earlier trucks in the rust belt, but they still continue to use the same parts, and chose not recall the later trucks. The recall is a patch to the problem, but works nonetheless.

Get it fixed now......
1) Jack up the front of the truck and grab each front wheel at 12 and 6 O'clock. There should be no play on either side. If play exists, that wheel bearing is going bad (it is bad) and should be replaced and the following steps can be ignored.
2) Unplug each WSS and test for resistance between the two terminals. The value should fall between dead short and open.
3) With the same test meter set to AC millivolts and still connected to sensor plug terminals, spin each wheel. There should be a small AC voltage present at each sensor.

Searching wheel speed sensor on here should reveal the actual values, but each side will test the same if they're in working order. I can promise one isn't.

Ok I had all four done and he said he followed all instructions, and he was amased how detailed and to the T you were, BUT my pedal is still soft and when I push them the pedal will still go to the floor!!! I am scared to hook to my fifth wheel and go anywhere!!! NO WHAT????????????

Ok I had all four done and he said he followed all instructions, and he was amased how detailed and to the T you were, BUT my pedal is still soft and when I push them the pedal will still go to the floor!!! I am scared to hook to my fifth wheel and go anywhere!!! NO WHAT????????????

You replaced pads and rotors all around? Maybe flush the system or look for a leak somewhere.

Would all of this apply to an 07 LMM as well? I took mine back to the dealer yesterday for soft brakes.

With all the corrosion issues the rotors and such seem to have, has anyone given any thought to coating them with something?

I know for some of our cast iron parts at work, we use this stuff called Black Max. It actually needs a bit of corrosion on the metal to work properly. Pretty much seals the surface preventing any future corrosion.

http://rhomar.com/blackmax.htm

I got a bottle of it and will try it on my rear rotors, front axle housing, and other places with some corrosion starting. Heck even my brake pedal has a surface layer of rust. :(

Ok I had all four done and he said he followed all instructions, and he was amazed at how detailed and to the T you were, BUT my pedal is still soft and when I push them, the pedal will still go to the floor!!! I am scared to hook to my fifth wheel and go anywhere!!! NOW WHAT????????????
You need to have the dealer bleed the flush/bleed the brake fluid with a Tech II attached and in the Brake Bleed mode. The only way to properly bleed the brake system on your truck is at the dealer with their computer attached. My dealer(s) charges 1 hour shop rate. Several dealers around here don't have a clue how to do it right and others do, so confirm that it'll be 1 hour and that the Tech II will be attached. If they look at you like your stupid, find another GM dealer. Only one of mine came with "factory air" in the brakes, but it does happen. Or, someone opened the system. Also, I would double check the hardware as I can't seem to find anyone else who can do them right.

"Ron duramax" on here just had them bled at the stealer, and he says they are cured now.

Would all of this apply to an 07 LMM as well? I took mine back to the dealer yesterday for soft brakes.
The caliper and pad holders are extremely similar, and as such, the same issues follow them, too. Since it's under warranty, I'd push for a "brake bleed with Tech II attached" just like in my post above. "Factory air" in the braking system, while rare, does occur.

Haven't posted here in a while, but just changed rotors & pads. I replaced everything with EBC slotted & dimpled rotors, yellow & green pads. All I have to say is WOW!!! It took a lot of time slowly grinding on the pads to make sure they fit like heymccall says they should, but what a difference!! The brakes are better now than they were the day I bought the truck!!

The old pads were so tight in the ears that I had to pry them out with a screw driver!! The rotors too were completely shot!!

This was one of the best things I did to my D-max!!

Haven't posted here in a while, but just changed rotors & pads. I replaced everything with EBC slotted & dimpled rotors, yellow & green pads. All I have to say is WOW!!! It took a lot of time slowly grinding on the pads to make sure they fit like heymccall says they should, but what a difference!! The brakes are better now than they were the day I bought the truck!!

The old pads were so tight in the ears that I had to pry them out with a screw driver!! The rotors too were completely shot!!

This was one of the best things I did to my D-max!!

Glad you love your truck again...:D

Is the "brake bleed with Tech II attached" recommended for a '97 or is that only on the newer trucks?

btw. heymccall thanks for the repeated postings. I think it I get it finally. I have to tear mine apart again and do it right.

The fix works AWESOME but its such a pain in the azz I've come to accept crappy brakes. I fixed it but it was only good for about 500mi. I just crank up the trailer brakes on the 24 footer and drive.

27k and my rear pad and rotors needed replacement because of sticking

My rear driver axle seal leaks too @40K. WTF? There is something going on here with that. It leaked all over my caliper and rotor, then onto my wheel and tire. Causing harder braking and a spongy feel. Cleaned with cleaner and it went away..

Spongy brakes can also be the product of weakened flexible lines....

...seriously..

...seriously..
Post like this are not the way to a high post count.:rolleyes:


BTW, welcome aboard. Now, can you please fill in your signature so we know what you is(sic) driving. I'm not ashamed to list the Goat in my sig. Soon, it'll be something else.

And while oil or brake fluid coated components will absolutely diminish braking performance, all of the above posts are from people who have visually inspected the brakes and can not find an apparent problem. Oil drippiing off of the caliper is what I would call "apparent".

Can the mods make this a sticky? I seem to run across it every other day on this site in someone else's "new" brake problem thread...

thanks.
a l e k

I called the dealer said $110 I asked with fluid ? he said yes im guessing this is a good deal?