: Speakers/Sound Deadening??
sprintmod1 02-04-2005, 01:51 PM Since I've got to tear into my doors to replace the mirrors, is there any value in upgrading the factory Bose speakers at the same time. Do I have to worry about upgrading the wiring. I am not planning on a new receiver or anything at this point but has anyone just replaced the speakers?? What kind?? What about the tweeters on the windshield pillar?
Also was thinking about doing some sound deadening. Somewhere, and I can't find it, there was a thread about using the ice guard stuff from Home Depot which is the same as Dynamat?? Anybody do this? With the Home Depot stuff??
Thanks for the help!
Mirror replacement can be done w/o removing door panel. Triangular panel at front of door must be pulled , but that should be all. L8R
sprintmod1 02-09-2005, 03:44 PM ttt
WAskier 02-10-2005, 12:59 AM The bose systems may not be worth messing with if you don't have intentions of taking the whole thing out. Because there's a "sub" in the bose setup the door speakers may be crossed over and not playing that low anyway, also I don't know how much power is going into those speakers but it's probably not much. Also don't know where they are crossed over but it may not be the same as whatever aftermarket speakers you get which would take them out of balance with the freqencys they're designed to play. All in all upgrading those speakers to a set of components would probably work, but may not sound any better. Now some sound deadening, if you're in the doors already, would probably help your stereo out quite a bit more. At the point you're at I'd suggest just doing the sound deadening material and play it from there. If you do decide to upgrade the speakers it's really not that hard to get the door panel off, takes like 5 minutes. Oh and if you're mirrors have any power going to them you'll have to take the door panel off to get the plug unplugged, so i dunno how you would be able to do a mirror replacement without taking the panel off.
sprintmod1 02-10-2005, 09:21 AM WAskier,
THANK YOU. That was some of the information I was looking for. I had ignored FILO's response because I know I have to get in the doors because I have power mirrors and are replacing them with TTT's. I had stopped last week at a very good stereo dealer and got some blah, blah, blah, which did not make any sense to me. Stopped there again last night and spoke to someone else. He groaned about the GM Bose system. Must be a popular topic! He did have some ideas about some aftermarket boxes that can get around the subs on the Bose systems and other good ideas without replacing the head unit. But you have mirrored exactly what he said last night. He is doing a CC on Saturday and said if I stop around 1, I should be able to hear a modified Bose system. Think I'm going to be there.
WAskier 02-10-2005, 11:04 AM Listening to the modified Bose setup is a good choice, see if you can't get them to take you for a ride in the truck to hear it on the road too with the road noise and all. Let us know what you decide and how it goes!
If you really want to keep the factory headunit you probably could get some boxes that'll run the signal to an aftermarket amplifier which you could run a new set of door speakers off of. But then you're running all sorts of wires through the truck, if you're not comfortable with that might be better to have it done at the stereo shop because at that point it's getting a little involved.
You're really going to like those TTT mirrors especially if you're moving up from the factory camper mirrors. If you need any help installing those shoot me a PM but the schafenacker install manual really is great. Oh and FYI if your manual came with the updated parking light hookup sheet (it's seperate from the manual) the line that they have you hook the wire up to is a ignition on so your mirror parking lights will be on whenever the ignition is on. I don't mind on mine but if it would bother you you may want to look for a different source of power. I was just too lazy to find a switched lead for the parking lights. I guess the old method of hooking up the lights in the dash causes the lights to dim with the dash lights which is why they updated the instructions.
sprintmod1 02-10-2005, 11:39 AM I am definately going to go over; it's only 7 miles from my house, so it will be easy. He did not know if the truck was a D/A or a gasser. I will see about trying to get a ride in it.
On the TTT's, I saw the other thread you were in regarding the running lights. I want them to go on and off with the running lights. Whenever I'm pulling a trailer, I always switch the fogs on which turns on the running lights on the truck and trailer. My version of being seen and safety first. I have decided to either go into the one pin in the black box at your left foot (I know there is one in there that goes on with the running lights or through the harness I have in the fire wall for the pyro and boost and then into the trailer wire harness from the under hood fuse box.
WAskier 02-10-2005, 01:43 PM Sounds like you've got it figured out, let us know how everything goes!
On the TTT's, I saw the other thread you were in regarding the running lights. I want them to go on and off with the running lights. Whenever I'm pulling a trailer, I always switch the fogs on which turns on the running lights on the truck and trailer. My version of being seen and safety first. I have decided to either go into the one pin in the black box at your left foot (I know there is one in there that goes on with the running lights or through the harness I have in the fire wall for the pyro and boost and then into the trailer wire harness from the under hood fuse box.
Not trying to hijack your thread, but can you elaborate? I'm installing my TTT's this weekend and this whole running light wiring issue still has me bugged. Seems like a more elagant solution is out there somewhere. Perhaps you've nailed it. The black box by your feet is the one listed in the updated instructions which causes the lights to turn on whenever the vehicle is running. I would like to find out how to turn them on with the lights w/o having to disassemble the dash and wire it into the headlight switch (as their original instructions show).
Thanks
Clint
cant we just tap into the cab light wiring ? (not sure where that comes from, underhood fuse box up the a pillar ?) that is when I want the lights to come on. anyone look at this closer ? dont want the lights on all the time.
WAskier 02-10-2005, 04:56 PM someone has got to have a FSM out there and knows how to read wiring diagrams. Maybe one of you should post this in the ask the techs forum.
sprintmod1 02-11-2005, 09:07 AM I don't have the roof marker lights but I think when I did my gauges I used that pin in the black box to turn on the lights in my gauges. With all the data bus stuff, I was not real interested in tapping into the headlight switch at the time and I think that is what I did. I will be putting mine on Saturday morning, so that is when I will start doing the fishing for the answer.
Does anyone know where the wire is for the roof lamps off the top of their head?????
Got mine in yesterday. Afterlooking at the way the mirror is set up, I followed my orig plan and did not hook up the running lights. The turn signals work however, and that's what I really wanted. Otherwise I'd got them w/o lights.
Thanks
sprintmod1 02-14-2005, 08:31 AM On the stereo issue, got a chance to go look at the CC gasser that was having the speaker replacement work done. It was not an impressive change in the sound inside the cab. He has replaced the factory exhaust with a Gibson dual system. He did not like the way the new speakers sounded and was going to rethink what he was doing and consider adding a new head unit. He just did not want to spend the $$ at this time. The stereo guy basically said the Bose amp and sub have to come out to improve the sound. I'm going to wait and see, got the guy's number when he does the stereo upgrade.
As for the TTT's; install was pretty simple. Got behind the dash into the fog lamp switch. That is where I tapped power to light my Isspro gauges when I installed them. So since I already had a relay in there for the gauges so they light up when ever the fogs go on and the fogs are on whenever my dash lights are on because of the jumper wire for the headlights to fogs the running lights in the mirrors are going to be on when my lights are on. Why does TTT's instructions on this have to be so difficult? Just tap into a switch or wire that is on when your lights are on. Mirrors are awesome, now just have to back up to a trailer and do some towing with them.
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