Is this true?

Autozone has them for $177. If you can put it in yourself, it beats $800!

I was told by them they didnt have em?

I broke the sylinoid.......dont ask how i got my truck back in action:o:

Edit: if thats including install for a actual new unit from GM I would say that aint bad. Its kinda a mother to get to

$800 ain't bad. Yeah! Right!

It is common for the solenoid to break when trying to loosen the terminal bolt. The solenoid is available seperately.
<TABLE width="100%" border=1><TBODY><TR><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Part Number

</TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Description

</TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Qty

</TH></TR><TR><TD vAlign=center align=middle>97365821

</TD><TD vAlign=center align=middle>Solenoid, Starter Motor

</TD><TD vAlign=center align=middle>1

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Yep, that part is $60 from www.GMPartsDirect.com (http://www.GMPartsDirect.com)

I have seen quite a few starters on ebay. Not sure what the story is but I think they were advertised as new.

I am on my second starter. Too bad it doesn't catch all the time either. Rebuilt unit cost $350 Can. Looks like I'll have to change it again. I checked the ring gear last time and it was fine, changed the starter and it was ok for a couple of months and it just started squaking on engagement. Not too bad to change, with the wheel well removed and battery disconnected. The exhaust also has to be disconnected. I couldn't get the starter out with out it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7951672770&category=33576&sspagename=WDVW

Is the starter covered under the engine 100K warranty? Later! Frank

It is common for the solenoid to break when trying to loosen the terminal bolt. The solenoid is available seperately.
<TABLE width="100%" border=1><TBODY><TR><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Part Number



</TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Description



</TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Qty



</TH></TR><TR><TD vAlign=center align=middle>97365821



</TD><TD vAlign=center align=middle>Solenoid, Starter Motor



</TD><TD vAlign=center align=middle>1



</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
That aint no poop:mad:

I was also told by the GM man that the noid wasnt available seperate:mad:

Is the starter covered under the engine 100K warranty? Later! Frank
My thoughts exactly. I would think it is.

My solenoid is broke, busted taking off the terminal bolt when I did my trans. It's siliconed together :cookoo: and has held for a couple of months. I plan on getting it fixed one of these days, but was unaware of being able to get just the solenoid. I went to a starter place that r/r's starters and they told they could not get just the solenoid, new starter would have to be purchased.. ya right. :ninja: <--was gonna bust up the joint..
I taint payin no 800 bills. No how.

Same story here, cracked the plastic around the stud and I couldnt get just the sylinoid supposedly

Lathered it up with JB weld and cranked a SS hose clamp onto that and let it sit. I tested it off the truck(yanked the noid of the starter) and it worked so it was another score for JB weld and redneck engineering.:grd:

Same story here, cracked the plastic around the stud and I couldnt get just the sylinoid supposedly

Lathered it up with JB weld and cranked a SS hose clamp onto that and let it sit. I tested it off the truck(yanked the noid of the starter) and it worked so it was another score for JB weld and redneck engineering.:grd:
:agreed: :ro) :rockit:
Gotta love jb weld and hose clamps.

I don't think the starter is covered under the 100k warranty.





6.6L DURAMAX® Diesel Engine Components

For trucks equipped with a 6.6L DURAMAX® Diesel Engine, the complete engine assembly, including turbocharger components, is covered for defects in material or workmanship for 3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever comes first. No deductible applies during this coverage period. The engine parts listed next continue to be covered, subject to a $100.00 deductible, for 5 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first.

<TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>Cylinder block and heads and all internal parts, intake and exhaust manifolds, timing gears, timing gear chain or belt and cover, flywheel, harmonic balancer, valve covers, oil pan, oil pump, water pump, fuel pump, engine mounts, seals, and gaskets </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>Diesel Fuel Metering System: injection pump, nozzles, high pressure lines, and high pressure sealing devices </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>Glow Plug Control System: control/glow plug assembly, glow plugs, cold advance relay, and ECM </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>Fuel injection control module, integral oil cooler, transmission adapter plate, left and right common fuel rails, fuel filter assembly, fuel temperature sensor, and function block </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

GMCSID,

Whats the trick to not breaking this thing when removing?

I don't know of a trick. You could try heating the nut first or holding the end of the stud with vise grips, but that might damage the threads too much.

I have 40k on my duramax and the starter is giving me problems atleast I think it is the starter I have 2 new batteries and it starts ok when warm but when cold or being started after short trips the starter struggles to turn the engine over or sometimes does not engage the fly wheel or just clicks and then takes off after several tries. I did a voltage test and the batteries are at 12.8 volts and when cranking under load it usually drops to 12 but when really cranking it drops to 11.5 and when started it goes to 14.5 so the alternator is working fine. Could the injector problem be causing the hard starts or causing the starter to stick and then when the solinoid clicks it cranks I am willing to change the starter my self but the cylinders filling with fuel and making it hard to crank have me worried. Has anyone else had these symptoms or had the same problem fixed

charles wysong
sick 01 red duramax chevy 2500hd

When I had my ATS Torq Convertor repalced my sylinoid got broken also. Cost me $115 (by the shop) to have it replaced....
Jason

I hade R&Red my started a few times. Never put the little nut on with much force and it wasnt very tight when i broke it. chalk it up to some dumb ass designer not thinking ahead and having the stud supprted well IMO.

You should be able to get a wrench behind the wire and hold that nut as you undo the other one. Thats what i had to do........although i may have had to grind a wrench to get it to fit.

Are you sure your connections are nice and tight? a starter clicking means it aint getting enough juice to do its job. Does it turn over slow wonce it starts cranking?

Everything I have worked on on my truck was, what I would call, over torqued. I would bet money that everything now a days is put together with air tools. I take it you guys are talking about the stud bolts coming out of they plastic cap on the starter solenoid. If so, they have been a problem as long as I have changed GM starters. I changed my first one in 63. I have broke a few over the years that did not have a star lock nut under the nut that holds the stud in the cap. Starters are not rocket science and almost never burn the armature of field coils. Most of the time the solenoid mechanical parts are dirty, wet etc. I have repaired several over the years simply cleaning and sealing them up better when going back together. Later! Frank

Yup, broke the little stud for the wire that gets juice to kick on the starter. I had removed and replaced it before......it also wasnt on very tight. Just chincy design

And with such a flat nut, it's impossible to get a wrench behind it, unless you grind one down as suggested..

So have we determined if the solenoid is available seperately?? GMSID says yes?

he is a tech and lists a part # so i would assume so......a call to Eric would confirm/get one zaped your way.

My repair is stout and it seems to be working. JB weld is non conductive and all that jive. I think i'm going to leave it. It seems to be fixed although extremely ugly. The silicone probably dont add much support.....that dude may shoot craps on you?

Well I finally found my problem and it is where the battery cable attaches to the solenoid it must have been over torqued at the factory and smashed the cable and the nut then loosened up with use because it was stripped I took the nut off and the stud broke because it was stripped and the starter arced so I think I will try a solenoid if I can find one or a new starter if necessary.

Yank the battery cables when messing with your starter or alternator!!!