I have been trying to track this hopping that i am getting in my drivers side front tire sometimes and today i jacked up that side and grabbed the tire and what do you know i can move it up and down about an inch or so.
Now, my question is can you just replace the bearing in the hub like we use to in the older trucks or does the whole hub have to be replaced. If you have to replace the hub about what should i look at for pricing.
Is this something that is common in these trucks or is it just something that happen. The passenger side feels fine, but not sure if i should replace them both or not. I am running 285's and a leveling kit, so could this be a side affect of larger tires and bad angles from cranking the TB. My truck has only 49,000 miles on it and i am thinking they should have lasted longer than that.

Just replaced mine at 90,000 miles. No lift just 265s and mostly highway miles. I did both sides along with upper and lower ball joints, pitman arm, and tie rod sleeves while the guy was in there and doing an alignment.

The hubs are an assembly and IIRC the Napa lifetime ones are about $329 ea.

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/wheel-bearing-hub-front/Chevrolet/Silverado/1ASHF00063/649423

These worked great for me.

I got some Timken hubs from RockAuto.com for 159 or so. They've worked out well so far. This is a normal thing with these trucks, more so if you run larger tires and a lift of any kind.

I replaced both of mine somewhere between 50K and 60K miles. Both were shot. I ran the stock tires until they needed replacing (around 40K miles) and now I'm runnig 265's and have not changed the torsion bars one bit. I'm thinking speed doesn't do them any favors either especially with the larger tires.

Just had mine done, cost is around $500.00 each side with labor-OUCH!!
Mine gave out at 36,000 miles. I run 285/70/17 BFG All Terrains with the torsion bars turned up 2 1/2".

*** MAKE SURE IF YOU HAVE IT DONE AT A SHOP TO GET THE LIFETIME WARRANTY HUB BEARING ASSEMBLY,
that way NEXT TIME all you have to do is pay for LABOR to install them!!

My left one gave out with over 1" of play, checked the right one it had "slight" play in it so I had them do that one as well to be on the safe side.

Just did a check on mine. When I moved the tire, I've got no play at the 12 and 6 position but quite a bit of play at the 3 and 9 position. If I've read other posts correctly, this indicates I need pitman and idler arms replaced. Correct?

Also, how do you figure out if you need ball joints?

Thanks!

Just did a check on mine. When I moved the tire, I've got no play at the 12 and 6 position but quite a bit of play at the 3 and 9 position. If I've read other posts correctly, this indicates I need pitman and idler arms replaced. Correct?

Also, how do you figure out if you need ball joints?

Thanks!


Before, or while, checking pitman and idler, I would check your tie rods. This is often times a sign of tie rods gone bad, either inner or outer, or both. In order to check ball joints, you need two people. Jack the truck up by the lower control arms, get someone else with a large pry bar to jolt the wheel up and down from the bottom of the tire while you observe the ball joints. If there is any play, they are either done or on their way out. They should hold tight as the tire is jolted.

I had to replace the passenger side about a month ago on mine. warrenty took care of the cost.

just did mine it sucks but you have to replace the whole hub there is a write up in the how tos also. i got mine 140 bucks of mac auto on ebay

Thanks Jake! I appreciate it!

Here's what you need to read http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71798

And the #1 cause of bearing failure is HEAT. I'd bet good money that your brakes are not functioning as designed on one or more corners of the truck.

Do the tests in post #7 here http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146597&highlight=another+soft+brake

Corrosion and production tolerances exaggerate the binding. The result is poor pedal feel, overheated front brakes, rusting of the sweep area on the rear rotors (and possibly the front), early wheel bearing failure, and premature ABS application. You may not have all the symptoms listed above, but I can guarantee you that heat was more of a factor than larger tires. You need to follow the second thread suggestions in post #7 to save your time, money, truck, and possibly your life.

Remember, your 3 ton truck needs to share braking action among all four corners, and with the electronic brake proportioning, you're ahead of the game, as long as the hardware is in working order. Other people will have other opinions, but I've got the trucks (with abusive drivers) to prove what I say, and only one wheel bearing assy since '03 has been done (at 120k miles and with bound up rear brakes on an '05).

I kept my old one to see if motion industries has a hearing I could press in it. But I have not tried it yet. probably not worth the hassle.

Mines in the shop right now. I picked up (2) NTP's from Advanced Auto for $180 and paying for labor at the shop. NTP only has 1yr warranty, but it's better than $301 for a National one with a 1yr warranty!

Heymccall, you bring up a good point. I have been noticing lately that my driverside rear is hot (spit test makes it sizzle) and I'm going to pull them apart this weekend. Is it the sliding rails on the calipers that get rusty and make them sieze and not work correctly?

Mines in the shop right now. I picked up (2) NTP's from Advanced Auto for $180 and paying for labor at the shop. NTP only has 1yr warranty, but it's better than $301 for a National one with a 1yr warranty!

Heymccall, you bring up a good point. I have been noticing lately that my driverside rear is hot (spit test makes it sizzle) and I'm going to pull them apart this weekend. Is it the sliding rails on the calipers that get rusty and make them sieze and not work correctly?

Follow the steps in post #7 and the answer will be revealed, BUT.......typically, the sliders are light on lube, but still slide and I haven't had a bad slider boot yet on anything from '03 up, SO....
I suspect the pads no longer "Slip Fit" in to the ears.

Thanks Jake! I appreciate it!

Anytime!

Follow the steps in post #7 and the answer will be revealed, BUT.......typically, the sliders are light on lube, but still slide and I haven't had a bad slider boot yet on anything from '03 up, SO....
I suspect the pads no longer "Slip Fit" in to the ears.




Heymccall,
Do you have any pictures to go along with your write up, and i really appreicate everyones input on this. I am heading to the dealer monday morning to see if this is covered under the extended warranty and then i will come home and take a look at the brakes.
Whats the chances of the dealer not covering this because of me running 285's and aftermarket wheels.

I just did both of my wheel bearings yesterday. 2.5 hours, start to finish. If you follow the DIY write-up, it's very easily done!

Just thought I would chime in here. My '05 had the front driver side outer bearing come loose (inside the hub) at about 40,000 miles. Being the type to fix things I torqued the axle nut which holds the bearings together, drove to the dealer and my 1/2" of play was gone. It just plain fixed itself . . . untill 100,000 miles when it started humming when cold.

On the inside bearing it is stamped "Warning Do Not Disassemble" I just havn't gotten to it yet(disassembling) :). I got the replacement hub for about 160.00 through summit racing . . . took about an hour.

Now I'm dealing with two axle seal leaks, broken heater, fuel level sender, noisy steering shaft . . . blahh

and BTW, My brakes are fine. Bearings are known to have life spans akin to humans and light bulbs some die early and some live really long. I think in my case it was a loose axle nut.

I carried mine into the dealer today and they installed a new hub and also a new ISS shaft and i couldn't believe how much better it drove.

I carried mine into the dealer today and they installed a new hub and also a new ISS shaft and i couldn't believe how much better it drove.

Same here, it's like a new truck. What did they get you for for the ISS shaft? I still have a small vibration through the wheel and I'm leaning towards this, although the tech said both front rotors and pads need changed.

Same here, it's like a new truck. What did they get you for for the ISS shaft? I still have a small vibration through the wheel and I'm leaning towards this, although the tech said both front rotors and pads need changed.




I got everything done under my extended warranty. I did have to pay a $50.00 deductable but the warranty covered the rest.

I had to replace the driver side at 46,000 and the passenger at 62,000. I am running 315's with a leveling kit and replacement bumper (which i am sure does not help). You might as well go ahead and replace both of them at the same time because the other one is going to follow shortly after the first one goes out.

I've got 42,000 miles and mine are making noise. And there is play in the wheel when jacked up.

Is the average cost around 500 if a shop or dealer does it?

Family just got back from the coast and now the driver side-front is squeaking.

Pulled the wheel and decon'd all the steering/suspension and did the 12 to 6 o'clock test: the wheel bearing has about 1/8" of play in it. Steering and suspension appear to be okay.

What do you experts think? Is 1/8" of play a show-stopper and worth a trip to the dealer for some (extended) warranty-love?

Hell, just the new noise off the front inspires me to head down to the dealership next time they open their doors...

-Jim

There should be no play at all. 1/8" will turn into 1/" inch real quick, then 1/2", etc. If you can get it covered under warranty than I certainly would before your warranty is up. If you've got time Id wait a little bit and pray that the other one went bad soon too so that you could have both done under warranty.

Mines in the shop right now. I picked up (2) NTP's from Advanced Auto for $180 and paying for labor at the shop. NTP only has 1yr warranty, but it's better than $301 for a National one with a 1yr warranty!

Was that two bearings for $180 or were they $180 ea???

Gotta be 180 a piece best I found was 260a piece. Where is the best place to get them with agood warrenty.

Rockauto.com usually has good prices...dont know about the warranty.

does it make a grinding sound when going bad? I haven't jacked it up yet to see if I have play, but it started grinding this morning and has been getting worse as the day goes on. Any help would be greatly appreciated....no it isn't the brakes.....they are fairly new.

Sounds like the brake wear indicators are rubbing whether you are on or off the brakes. Mine get quieter in right turns (but that may be deflecting the noise away from the driver side window.

Either way it's irritating as hell...

Jacked it up and had 2 inches of play all the way around.......woo hooo!! Guess I will be replacing the hub assembly today.:shootself:weld:

Was that two bearings for $180 or were they $180 ea???

Yep, $180 a piece.

Good news! The dealer did my repairs under warranty so it's all good. Wheel bearing failure and resultant damage to steering.

FYI: According to my dealer's service department, IF you want your PRE/POST alignment data you need to specify it during the write-up. I was under the impression that the PRE/POST info was mandatory...

Good service guy running the show at my shop; he took great care of us...

Does the GM 100,000 mile driveline warranty cover these front wheel bearings if it's a 4wd? GM should fix this weak link. I replaced my 2003's at about 50k miles, along with some of the front end components it was about $600

Does the GM 100,000 mile driveline warranty cover these front wheel bearings if it's a 4wd? GM should fix this weak link. I replaced my 2003's at about 50k miles, along with some of the front end components it was about $600

I don't believe the bearings (hub assembly) to be the weak link here. If I keep the brakes correctly free, the sealed unit hubs last 150k miles or more on all my 4x4's. That means F-350s and Dodge 2500s, along with the GM 2500s and 3500s. Some have bigger tires, some tow trailer more, Pennsylvania ain't flat (or pothole free, for that matter), and sewer line installation takes 'em everywhere. As far as other components, I've replaced one only outer tie-rod among all my '00 and newer fullsize GMs. My '05s have 110k, 120k and 150k miles on 'em, the '00 has 179k miles on it, and the '06's are at 70k, 85, and 95k miles right now.

The '00 started it all with 37k miles when the pass side failed, the driver's side went at 160k miles. And at 37k miles the rear brakes were jammed in place and the rotors were toast.

As I said earlier, I replaced the F bearings at about 50k but never did the brakes. They were still in pretty good shape at 80k when I sold the truck.