I was thinking this might work for resurfacing my pistons after I shave them. http://www.caswellplating.com/powder/ceramics.html

A $100 for the coating and you do the rest.

I like everything but the price, but I might try it on the turbo exterior for fun.

I thought i'd dress up my turbo as the dull aluminium looked like crap so i cleaned it up and sprayed on this fancy 1200 degree shiny gold paint, looked like pee after that so i sprayed over that with some flat black BBQ paint, now its kind of a deep brown resulting in that crap look again, i gave up and bolted it on.

if you shave material off the pistons don't you have to have the crank re-balanced?

if you shave material off the pistons don't you have to have the crank re-balanced?
You will need the pistons rebalanced as well.

Why don't you de-stroke it some and use the stock pistons?

BEE Carefull QM

Ceramic coatings can be tricky, we use them on innards of our turbines combustors and high pressure turbine blades and have had limited success with them, they work reasonably well on things that don't have a lot of thermal transient & vibrational stresses induced on them.

Primarily, we use them on Industrial engines base loaded to a sustained operating speed/power level say run for 6 months at a steady temp shut down for routine maintenance then run for another 6 months.

It took us a while to get just the right compound and special heat treatments to make it stay. We lot a few engines as ceramic coatings tend to be harder than heated metals and erosion/impact damage can occur as it flakes off in small pieces or big flakes.

DIY coating on a piston probably not a good idea, if you sent the pistons to them they might be able to get it right, DOC Lee over at the Diesel Page a real DOC with wall shingle and all pedigrees in all Engineering disciplines (not a part timer such as myself healing sick turbines) take on ceramics when I asked him similar questions was that benefit potential not worth the money and or risk if something liberated as I describe in my jet experiences.

Ceramic coatings like to crack especially with thermal transients in a stop and go machine, plus varied cylinder pressure extremes, I'd say not something for average 6.5 but could make a neat R&D project, I'd assess the risk tho with a metalurgist & ceramic coatings engineer.

I know in some of the race engines we've built the prep was more the key than anything. The top was smoothed out with no sharp edges and then we wet sanded them to remove any blemishes and then glass beaded them so that the carbon could attach itself to the piston top. The theory being the light coating of carbon dust would repel some heat and promote better airflow. When we tore down an engine after a race we would check all the pistons for clean areas. Clean areas represented to much squish or mixture a little to rich. We would also inspect the bottom of the pistons for heat dissipation, or holes in some cases.
Quick measured a 6.5 piston and found the dome to be .630" thick with a .075" depression for those wanting to know.

Dunno about anyone else, but I would be seriously concerned if combustion temps in any cylinder were no greater than 1200deg, above which that PAINT is guaranteed to suffer 'some performance deterioration'................

Industrial name is DEMETCOTE - good for oxidation protection for assembled valves\flanges\pipes at elevated industrial temps.
Elevated meaning over 150deg.
Assembled meaning no movement, in-place.

Flakes off in chunks when dis-assembled, nicked, impacted, jarred heavily.
More so on cast iron exhaust components, subject to rapid wide temperarure swings.

Looks nice when fresh, tho..........