Anyone here thought about using a external crank trigger to time their diesel? At least it would be adjustable. http://www.jegs.com/photos/1218610.jpg

Might even be able to adapt an advance solenoid of some sort.

Shows trigger wheel install.

http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/90001011b.pdf

From what I see, There is no room for this setup. BUT a clever young fool could gut the electronics from a Craftsman dial-type timing light and use them to alter the timing of the stock CPS trigger pulse.

In theory (sly grin)...<SLY grin>

Tim

"To what end?", sincerely, he asked.....

Well, if you reprogrammed the limp mode to advance the timing you could run the truck on the crank trigger alone and not worry about the optical.

And, does the phrase "Extended Crank", usually associated with Limp Mode mode, come to mind?

Programming issue, same as turning limp mode into run mode.

8\64\512 dynamic?

Both Crank and Cam Pulses are needed for the PCM to manage advance movement in the IP. What DP is suggesting is an adjustable Cam pulse to bias the crank reference signal to fool it into advancing/retarding timing.

I think the change in static timing could show an improvement in fuel mileage. The most you can get out of the pump is 20 degrees engine advance plus whatever the static advance is preset in from the factory. The ECM sets what it thinks the engine needs to be and there is no control over that. We all know the factory settings need to be tweaked here and there. Thought I would throw it out there for inquiring minds.
By the way, the trigger in the 6.5 uses a hall effect sensor that acts as a magnetic switch. When the sensor is near a metal lobe on the crank reluctor wheel it drops the 5 volt reffernce voltage and and this in turn tells the computer a cylinder is in firing range. When the lobe goes by it loses the magnetic pull and picks the 5 volts back up.

Guess Quantum could run a big hose clamp around his balancer and attach four big wing nuts on there 90 degrees apart and make it work. But I bet he could weld four spots on there and do the same. Heck I bet he could put multiple sensors on there and hook up a switch on the dash to change timing at will. Quantum will try anything.

Guess Quantum could run a big hose clamp around his balancer and attach four big wing nuts on there 90 degrees apart and make it work. But I bet he could weld four spots on there and do the same. Heck I bet he could put multiple sensors on there and hook up a switch on the dash to change timing at will. Quantum will try anything.
I'd try it if I had the right help.

I'm just curious but why would you use wing nuts and what type would you use?

Wing nut would be the obvious choice for this application. Wing nuts have projection like wings that create a centrifugal force. Some downward and some outward. Have to be careful what wing nuts you choose though. You got the right-wing nuts which can be way out there and you have those darn left-wing nuts that are hard to figure out. Since this is a right hand rotation engine a right-wing nut would work. A left-wing nut wouldn't come to work unless the government subsidized it.

So my dear Sherman. The main reason you would use wing nuts is quite simple. To make the 6.5 fly you must have wings.

Quantum would be the perfect choice for this product as we all know. People say he has more nuts than anyone here. Or was that he is more nuts?

Lets do it QUANTUM. Decide where you want to mount this beast and I'll start making us a tone reluctor wheel.

DieselPro (without the -)

;) Possibly nutty perfesser, just nutty enuff to boldly go where many fear to tread

plus when wing nuts sling loose they leave a cool shaped dent in your forehead.

The main reason you would use wing nuts is quite simple. To make the 6.5 fly you must have wings.
DieselPro (without the -)
Or the ability to generate anti-gravition waves

I wonder if it'd be possible to sandwich it between the HB and crank pully and not interfer with anything balance or clearence wise? Also, I've heard it suggested that an adjustable delay might do the same wired into the CPS harness.

Could it be that, with total 10deg camring advance, which is 20deg crank advance, and PCM uses only ~5deg camring advance, which is ~10deg crank advance, that that is the optimal range for factory-set distributor head position, and that further advance would require advancing the distributor, as related to crankshaft TDC?

Just an idea, could you modify the flexplate to be the external cank gear and set-up the sensors off of it, say on the opposite side of the of the inspection cover from the starter?

I don't think you want to delay the signal. Putting the sensor on the flywheel would be just to hard to mess with when you want to change it.

Hey, let me stick my dumb self in the midst of this. . . what other things effect engine timing, and could it be easier to accomplish? I had raised the question of changing the ECT signal, since it advances the timing.

Doable or not?

I think it would increase your fuel and timing. I could test it. I was scanning a '95 k3500 running 8.5* timing and looking at the WOT fuel delivery was 65mm peak, 63mm sustained, advance ran 11-18 deg depending on pedal position. If wiring a pot into the CTS increases your output and timing I should be able to see it or not.

Correct me if wrong but I think that would only effect cold advance during start & idle, I think there is logic that looks for rpm to be below X rpm and then disables cold advance, this is off top of head I'll have to hit the books to see what it says or if it says anything about it. Anybody else got information on my guess.