i bought a used nitrous kit off the diesel stop and will be here soon, cannot wait to install
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=esearch.asp&N=100&Ntk=PartSearch&Ntt=02519NOS+&x=15&y=13 (http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=esearch.asp&N=100&Ntk=PartSearch&Ntt=02519NOS+&x=15&y=13)

that is the kit and i thought i could pick a few brains for their ideas on install location, wiring, bottle location, location for switch, starting jet sise, location to inject on SD manifold or not, would like to run with lp, and any other good ideas, that i should know about, i am a virgin to nitrous and am a little bit unsure of it's power, thanks to this site it feels like a reliable power, for our lack of air:D

thanks in advance, fred

Normally, you are best off running the solenoid off a relay instead of direct to the switch.

How I did mine:

No teflon tape anywhere.
Cut up an old kids bedframe and bolted pieces of it to the bottom of the bed.
Mounted bottle, label up, high end is the valve.
Ran 16' of line in the passenger frame rail.
Mounted solenoid near air filter on radiator support.
Put Super Diesel manifold on the passenger side upper CAC out pipe.
Put line from manifold to solenoid.
Wired ground (either lead) of solenoid to alternator bracket.
Ran hot solenoid lead first to inline 20 amp fuse (12 ga wire used) then into the back of the fuse box.
Pulled 15amp fuse for horn out.
Ground up a crimp connector to the size of a fuse prong and crimped it on the solenoid hot lead.
Pushed the connector into the empty horn fuse slot closest to the dash.

Opened the bottle, and test fired it. Drove to the track the next day.

Opened the bottle, and test fired at my wife. Drove to the track the next day.
Took 5 yrs off her life:damnit1:

thanks guys
is their a minumm sise the inlet should be, i am running out of ports on the sd manifold, any pictures

With mine it came with a 1/8"-27 NPT dry injector/jet holder, which I screwed into one of the ports.

Ghetto Method:

Bottle under bed:

http://2fdr.com/mcrat/nitrousbottle.JPG

Solenoid near aircleaner:

http://2fdr.com/mcrat/nitroussolenoid.JPG

SuperDiesel manifold with jet holder in place:

http://2fdr.com/mcrat/nitrousport.JPG

Horn Relay Hijacking:

http://2fdr.com/mcrat/nitrousfuse.JPG

You will have to ask Colonel FUSE MAN why there is no pic where the fuse goes:eek: :lol:

Fred,

I like the idea of mounting it behind the rear seat. There should be a 1/16"npt port in the SD manifold that the nozzle will fit, or you could use a 1/8" to 1/16" bushing and use another port, and you can always add a 1/8" male branch tee to free up some more space. Wiring it with a Hobbs switch allows you to set the solenoid to come on at different boost levels. There's probably a ton of ways to do it, so hopefully this gives you a few ideas.
Josh

http://dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1573&stc=1

You will have to ask Colonel FUSE MAN why there is no pic where the fuse goes:eek: :lol:

You just knew I was waiting for the pic with the fuse didn't you.:lol:
C'mon. show em where the fuse lives.:muahaha:

wow: go play hockey for two hours and this many replies, thanks guys, this is what makes this fourm what it is

fred you have mail

well the hardware is in and just looking to do the wiring, which way to go, the kit has a micro switch for the pedal but sounds like not many running that, have a hobbs set to 20 for the wi, might tie into that, fun fun, theree is no gauges in this kit, looks to be i will need one, and what does the purge suppose to do, other than look good, thanks fred

well the hardware is in and just looking to do the wiring, which way to go, the kit has a micro switch for the pedal but sounds like not many running that, have a hobbs set to 20 for the wi, might tie into that, fun fun, theree is no gauges in this kit, looks to be i will need one, and what does the purge suppose to do, other than look good, thanks fred
Nitrous exists in the bottle in a liquid which is it's most dense form. As it travels up the line and through the solenoid and on into the engine it boils and becomes a gas. Purging a line is meant to clear the line of air, freeze the line a little bit so that during the run you are flowing liquid Nitrous into the engine instead of a gas for maximum power output. Of course each run will decrease bottle pressure so some will use a bottle heater to boil some of the Nitous in the bottle thereby causing it to expand into a gas and increasing the pressure in the bottle.

GMCSLEHD

Clean engine compartment,nice install.

Got Pics of the bottle install?

well the hardware is in and just looking to do the wiring, which way to go, the kit has a micro switch for the pedal but sounds like not many running that, have a hobbs set to 20 for the wi, might tie into that, fun fun, theree is no gauges in this kit, looks to be i will need one, and what does the purge suppose to do, other than look good, thanks fred

Here's the problem with using the supplied WOT microswitch:

When you are trying to do a boosted launch, you sometimes need to go WOT to get the boost to build. When the bottle hits, power jumps quickly and makes it hard to stay put.

Elowe has a great idea with using the brake light switch in conjunction with the Hobbs or WOT switch.

I think he is also making a tps switch.......

How about Wot switch with the horn button as the interrupt while on the starting line? Stage the truck while holding down the horn button.


Although I do like the brake idea better.

GMCSLEHD

In your wiring diagram you have the relay marked wrong.

The center terminal should be 87a and the top one should be 87. If someone were to wire it the way your illistrated and ignored the #'s they would have Nitrous all the time except when they turn the ignition and switch on. :eek:

Oops:eek: , that would be a :badidea: . Didn't even notice that :damnit1: , :thankyou2 for pointing it out. :sorrysign if anyone blew up their engine.

Josh

Heck! I've been running that way for a week now. It did seem a bit peppyier. ;)

was sent this to me, thought i had a problem because i am blowing out fuses, will check grounds, any other ideas, thanks fred


by: Dave Ness Nesstronics Ink Publishing
web site: www.NESSTRONICS.com (http://www.nesstronics.com/)
e-mail : dave@NESSTRONICS.com


RELAYS for HOT RODS - why and how

Over the past while I have received quite a few questions regarding the use of relays in street rod applications. With the increasing use of electronics, relays are becoming more and more common in electrical systems.

To try and cover all types of relays would create a very big book. For this article I will try to cover the common automotive relays.

ALL relays perform some type of electrical switching function. They can range from switching very HIGH LOADS to switching multiple tasks. They may be used to isolate electrical tasks or to combine them.

A short list; not complete by any means, would include, starter relays, headlight relays, horn relays, electric lock relays, door relays; if the vehicle is equipped with electric doors and electric locks. If electric windows are used, relays would be used to control the switching function.

Starter relays are an example of switching a VERY big load, (remember the relay is a switch!). The objective is to switch a very large load at a distance. If no starter relay was used you would have to run battery cables up to the starter switch, and the switch would have to be very heavy duty. This would make a very bulky setup, plus the need to increase the length and size of the battery cables.

The headlight relay functions as a medium load switch, (although with the use of Halogen and high intensity headlights, the loads are becoming very high ), and could also include the switching from high to low beam.

The horn relay is a fairly high load switch as well as simplifying the wiring from the steering column to the horn button.

Alternator relays or generator relays are used to turn them on and off. Switching a high load.

First some basics; as said earlier, all relays perform some type of switching function. In the case of the starter relay we referred to this type - as a single pole, single throw. This means only one conductor is being turned on and off. If you wish to get more technical; starter relays are considered non-latching, single pole, single throw. To operate the relay an electromagnetic coil moves the contacts inside. Early Ford starter relays used an electromagnetic coil that was "hot" at all times. The starter button was used to ground the electromagnetic coil and operate the relay.

Horn relays operate like old style starter relays the actuating coil staying "hot" at all times and is grounded through the steering column by the horn button.

The DRAWING shown below is an example of a very common type of 12 volt D.C. relay. This relay; this is NOT an ad for them, it is one that I use often. They can be found in almost any electronics supply house.

MAN. - Potter & Brumfield

MODEL - VF4-45F11

TYPE - Single Pole, double throw, non-latching

http://www.nesstronics.com/image231.gif

The pins numbered ; 85 and 86 are the terminals that power the relay. The relay uses very little current, (about 1/10th AMP)

so the switch that is used to control the relay can be fairly light duty .

In the case of this relay; the actuating coil is NOT POLARITY SENSITIVE, this means that "+" or "-" can hooked to either 85 or 86. One of these terminals must be grounded, these relays DO NOT have a case ground.

Number 30 pin is COMMON, the in-coming load wire would be hooked to this pin.

Pin number’s 87 & 87A are the output side of number 30. The number 87A pin is a normally closed contact. This means if the actuating coil is not powered, number 30 and number 87A are connected together. If the coil has power applied, 30 & 87A will open. Number 87 & 30 are normally open.

Power to the coil is needed to close 87 and 30.

Here is the end of another year ! May I personally wish everyone the best of the holidays, And a HAPPY NEW YEAR !!

Dave Ness
<HR width="100%">








Fred,

I like the idea of mounting it behind the rear seat. There should be a 1/16"npt port in the SD manifold that the nozzle will fit, or you could use a 1/8" to 1/16" bushing and use another port, and you can always add a 1/8" male branch tee to free up some more space. Wiring it with a Hobbs switch allows you to set the solenoid to come on at different boost levels. There's probably a ton of ways to do it, so hopefully this gives you a few ideas.
Josh

http://dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1573&stc=1

need help

my wiring is hooked up as shown above, by gmcslehd, system seams to work as intended but after about one second of running, i blow the fuse on pole 30 going to the positive post of the battery

i have tried changing grounds, changing positives, take solenoid holding braket away from ground, and traced out wires, and ran heavy supplyed wire, i have went right up to 25 amp fuses and they all have burnt out, this is starting to piss me off, can a new relay be shorted out, only thing i have not changed, any other ideas

My first guess would be the nitrous solenoid.

Take a piece of 12ga wire with a 25amp fuse in it, and manually activate the solenoid off the battery.

Oppsss! The above is to test the solenoid. Have the bottle off, and disconnect the positive lead (87) first before testing.

and that would prove if the relay or solenoid is shot, is that right

and that would prove if the relay or solenoid is shot, is that right

It would tell you if it was the solenoid blowing fuses.

If it works reliably, it's either your wiring, the relay, or the switch (unlikely).

When relays fail, they usually stick open or closed, but shorting out isn't too common in my experience. Ditto for switches.

Fred,
Sorry to hear it's not working. I am by no means a wiring guru, but check to make sure you are getting power to the solenoid through pole 87 (normally open) on the relay.

PS. Sorry I haven't gotten any pics of the shelf behind the seat to you. And be careful when going up jet sizes as it WILL test the limits of a built trans.
Josh

well once again ****ty luck, i blow fuses when hok the solenoid straight up to the battery
so can those dam things be fixed, are they chuck aways, this was a brandnew unit, will call holley in the am, anybody have one for sale it is a 16000 nos thanks fred

Most of your local speed shops will have solenoids over the counter if you are in a hurry.

thanks McRat: will look for one

BTW- You bought a used system right? Are you SURE the solenoid was unused?

Perhaps the previous owner had trouble with it, and got rid of it.

could of been, it was all package in the new plastic and box that it comes new in, but i could tell the pakage was opened, the previous owner said, after he had bought it, he had thought it was to much for his ford, but that could be a lie, it did look like it was new tho, sucks

holley is send me two solenoids up free of charge, should have by early week, thanks guys, throwing in some jets as well FRED

I have a diagram of how mine is currently wired up at home. I will post it tonight.

System basics, 2 solenoids (1 main 16048R and one small purge), 2 relays (one main that uses a pushbutton or WOT to activate and the other a relay to disable the main when the brake is applied for staging purposes).

Future plans are:
adjustable TPS WOT (which be the way are in from the supplier and should be in my hands here this week)
within the next few months a 2-4 stage system with controller included as well as spooling/staging assist.

elbow: your goona need to run a 100lb bottel for all you solenoids):h :grd:

Considering the load capacity for the truck, I should have no problem carry 3 or 4 65lb bottles in the rear... ):h

Plus with all that weight over the azz end, it should help this two wheel drive roach transfer some weight and hook!!!!:eek: :ro)

nice to see thart you always look to the positive side

it's in and i did a few pases tonight, holy sh!t i thought i was gonna grab rubber in fourth, i ran an .082 and she still smooked hard, tranny took her no problem, so i guess we go up, up and away, bad thing tho(juice is gonna love this) after only 3 pases with a 10lb bottle, she was empty, also what a smooth power on the motor, i did a few passes on the gtech tonight to compare a run with a high stack, on wi and lp(550hp about), how i did this was, i would set my cruise to 50mph, then lock the tranny into fourth gear with tq converter locked than mash on it with the nitrous here was my results in gforce, did not have enought n20 to do a full 1/4 mile http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL22/566829/847939/85828517.jpgpass at the end(sorry)
http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL22/566829/847939/85828965.jpg

any idea what hp a .092jet will offer, looking to get an idea what hp each jet offers, thanks

Close to 200HP, the .101 jet will add just a hair over 200HP.

It really depends on how much extra fuel you have.

For me, a .070" jet yields 60-70rwhp.

did some testing tonight with the .092 and with the stack and lp, the gtech is looking at the 760hp, witch looks in the ball park, but still have black smoke, will do again to verify

high stack with lp and wi got me to 575 last weekend, so its close

looking to take .7 off the 1/4 mile, i wild rush i will say




Close to 200HP, the .101 jet will add just a hair over 200HP.

The smallest restriction in your system, be it hose or fitting or nozzle or jet or solenoid, will be the limiting factor. Example : if you're running a .125 jet with a .082 solenoid, you'll see different results than a guy running a .125 jet with a .125 solenoid and so on and so forth.

Josh

thanks josh, my solenoid is .118, which is my smallest restriction, thanks

Fred, What Stack Combo Were You Running With The Bigger Nos Jet?

westers/jkva stack, westers is putting down over 220 by itself, va offers timing and a ittle more power, but still low noise, combo makes about 520