If I have a WVO setup but instead of running WVO though it ran a 50:50 mix of diesel and used motor oil would that OK for the IP? I would think heating the fuel like WVO would thin the old oil enough.

Whats your thoughts on it?

If I have a WVO setup but instead of running WVO though it ran a 50:50 mix of diesel and used motor oil would that OK for the IP? I would think heating the fuel like WVO would thin the old oil enough.

Whats your thoughts on it?
If your talking used diesel oil, I wouldn't do it for a variety of reasons.

1) particles in oil
2) soot build up in combustion chamber
3) potential IP problems

But some people claim to do this. I wouldn't.

If your talking used diesel oil, I wouldn't do it for a variety of reasons.

1) particles in oil
2) soot build up in combustion chamber
3) potential IP problems

But some people claim to do this. I wouldn't.

But what if you filter the oil really well before using it?

Depends on what the risk is worth to ya. My buddy has/is doing it in his 6.5,I'm doing it in my D-Max,others are trying it as well. Make darn sure it's filtered good before you ever pour it in the tank.

But what if you filter the oil really well before using it?
Maybe, if the oil is filtered to 2 microns and clear. Then I might give it a shot - but 30% is probably the highest I'd ever go.

I will, at times, add "virgin" oil to the fuel tank - but only a couple of gallons as it's too expensive. I honestly like they way it performs with the addition of oil.

I still think 50/50 might be a little too high, but it is only my opinion.

Depends on what the risk is worth to ya. My buddy has/is doing it in his 6.5,I'm doing it in my D-Max,others are trying it as well. Make darn sure it's filtered good before you ever pour it in the tank.
How's it working out for you and what kind of filtration are you using? I have access to plenty of used oil - just kinda gutless :rolleyes:

Any information would be appreciated!

My Uncle is running it in his tractor...but I doubt he's running 50/50 mix - I'll ask him the next time I see him. He built a filtration device using hot water heating elements, a 55 gal drum, a centrifuge, and lots of plumbing.

I do know this, when he was running his tractor the last time I was over at his shop, the exhaust fumes stunk! Smell like a worn out diesel with bad rings....basically like burning oil...which I guess is to be expected considering that's what he's doing.:cool:

My Uncle is running it in his tractor...but I doubt he's running 50/50 mix - I'll ask him the next time I see him. He built a filtration device using hot water heating elements, a 55 gal drum, a centrifuge, and lots of plumbing.

I do know this, when he was running his tractor the last time I was over at his shop, the exhaust fumes stunk! Smell like a worn out diesel with bad rings....basically like burning oil...which I guess is to be expected considering that's what he's doing.:cool:
Yes, even "virgin" oil at 2 gallons a tankfull stinks! At 50%, I couldn't imagine!

I used to burn my oil from my oil changes in the same day in my poor old dodge. No complaints at 400k, well...with the motor anyways. Out of the crankcase, into the tank. Almost 4 gallons. I wouldn't do it in the DMAX though, it's pretty picky even with straight fuel in it. :D

I wouldn't attempt that kind of mix w/o an EGT gauge.

Nick

I'd be concerned about clouding up the optic sensor and the sediment suspension that doesn't get filtered out of the oil. You're going to want to filter the oil extremely well. A centrefuge would be your best bet.

Then depending on what type of used oil it is, you are going to have fuel waxing on your fuel filter. With a 50:50 blend, my bet is that you're going to buy 2 fuel filters. Before you get through the first tank. I tried running cheap, new motor oil as an additive. I was only using 1 quart per tank and it fouled my fuel filter.

X2,egts get much higher much faster.

I wouldn't attempt that kind of mix w/o an EGT gauge.

Nick

i pour 4 gals per side in the big truck it's a series 60, then i top it off,. so it's mixing in with 80gals in the last 6 years i,ve had 1 injector quit,. but mileage on that injector was nearly a million miles,.so i pulled all 6 had them checked 3 were still just fine, one had the tip cleaned, and i bought 2 remans,. straight from the crank case into the tank,. works out to 5%.
so on a regular 26gal? tank you might get away with 1 gal then fill it up,.
nick

Lets not be stupid about this kind of stuff, there are no-minds out there that might be stupid enough to do it. I am old enough to have been in the industry when they tried this crap, I was working in a logging camp and they bought into the program. They bought this machine that had 2 of these 750D luberfiner filters, they had limestone in the filters to get out the acid, they mixed the waist oil with fuel and filtered it threw the filter packages for about an hour. The filters were changed after about the third truck. It had about a twenty gallon reservoir it sucked in the oil and the fuel in about a 50/50 mix heated it and filtered it. The trucks they used it in the most were the 1710 Cummins, they used about 60 quarts of oil about 40 in the oil pan that we used. They also tried it in the 12V 71 Detroit's they used about 40 quarts 30 in the pan. The machine was put right beside the truck and sucked the fuel right out of the fuel tank they had a very large fuel tank as these where 849, and 850 Kenworth off Highway trucks. Management was oh so proud of this machine, it would save them so much money in fuel and waste oil. Then reality sunk in within the oil change cycle of the fleet which was 30 days we started having injector problems. These injectors in the Cummins were as basic a unit as they come and had a very large holes in the tip, three times what they use in the 90's models. The Detroit's ran the old high valves and had a very low popping pressure and large holes as well. We had trucks parked waiting for injectors. at first we were changing them as a matched set then we were just changing the ones that seized or blew the tip. The machine was used for about two cycles 60 days I was changing Injectors and PT fuel pumps for a year after that. I made a fortune in overtime. So if you think it is a good idea then do it and when you have all your fuel system replaced a couple of times, that includes the fuel tank and lines as the acids will eat them also, and with the learning curve on your tune up your fuel mileage will be right up to snuff by then. IGNORANCE IS BLISS, IT'S GOOD FRIDAY. lets try and be a little less blissful. PLAY SAFE!

Whats your thoughts on it?

Dumb Idea

Dumb Idea
x2. Not worth it. DS4 Installed 1500-2100$. Sell the truck and buy a gasser or ride out the fuel costs. Run WVO if your feeling risky. . All better alternatives. Save the waste motor oil for the garage heater. BTW running any kind of fuel aside from pump diesel is illegal. It is a violation of federal epa regulations and state and local tax evasion. Some things aren't worth the savings.

I've been running 50% mix of used oil in my older diesels for a while, and I've got a friend who's been running between 50 and 100% used engine oil in his powerstroke for 50,000+ miles without any problems. The key is good filtration, I use a several filters that filter down to the 10 micron level and it seems to work good. I don't even preheat the oil or anything, it seems plenty runny when mixed with diesel fuel. Just make sure you take an extra fuel filter or two with you wherever you go, sometimes they plug up fast.

I've been burning unused motor oil in my truck (94 GMC, 6.5TD) for a little while and for the first time yesteray I put used oil in. I think it is too dark and clouded the optical sensor in the injector pump so now it is running in limp mode and barely has any power. Know of any ways to clear it up? Seeing how yours doesn't (or shouldn't) have an optical sensor in the pump, you shouldn't have this same problem.

I don't know why used diesel oil would be any different than used gasoline engine oil. The particles are filtered to the same level that diesel fuel is, and as for soot in the combustion chamber, I certainly haven't experienced any abnormal amounts.

I've been running 50% mix of used oil in my older diesels for a while, and I've got a friend who's been running between 50 and 100% used engine oil in his powerstroke for 50,000+ miles without any problems.

Are you saying hes ran on a full tank of just used oil?

Lets not be stupid about this kind of stuff, there are no-minds out there that might be stupid enough to do it. I am old enough to have been in the industry when they tried this crap, I was working in a logging camp and they bought into the program. They bought this machine that had 2 of these 750D luberfiner filters, they had limestone in the filters to get out the acid, they mixed the waist oil with fuel and filtered it threw the filter packages for about an hour. The filters were changed after about the third truck. It had about a twenty gallon reservoir it sucked in the oil and the fuel in about a 50/50 mix heated it and filtered it. The trucks they used it in the most were the 1710 Cummins, they used about 60 quarts of oil about 40 in the oil pan that we used. They also tried it in the 12V 71 Detroit's they used about 40 quarts 30 in the pan. The machine was put right beside the truck and sucked the fuel right out of the fuel tank they had a very large fuel tank as these where 849, and 850 Kenworth off Highway trucks. Management was oh so proud of this machine, it would save them so much money in fuel and waste oil. Then reality sunk in within the oil change cycle of the fleet which was 30 days we started having injector problems. These injectors in the Cummins were as basic a unit as they come and had a very large holes in the tip, three times what they use in the 90's models. The Detroit's ran the old high valves and had a very low popping pressure and large holes as well. We had trucks parked waiting for injectors. at first we were changing them as a matched set then we were just changing the ones that seized or blew the tip. The machine was used for about two cycles 60 days I was changing Injectors and PT fuel pumps for a year after that. I made a fortune in overtime. So if you think it is a good idea then do it and when you have all your fuel system replaced a couple of times, that includes the fuel tank and lines as the acids will eat them also, and with the learning curve on your tune up your fuel mileage will be right up to snuff by then. IGNORANCE IS BLISS, IT'S GOOD FRIDAY. lets try and be a little less blissful. PLAY SAFE!


Ditto. Not from my experience, but from listening to old guys who had the EXACT same stories as you just said (right down to the engines those rigs were tried with). I wonder what the name of that company, they scammed a LOT of guys into buying some filter/mixing unit. They probably knocked out enough injectors to sink a ship.

As I understand it, engine oil's job is to grab the dirty by products of combusion, and the microscopic chunks of metal and encapsulate them so that they cannot continue to harm your engine. Oil technology is really good, to the point that the oil DOES NOT want to let go of this stuff. It's one of the main reasons that most used motor oil is not recycled into lube oil again. Even if you filter it down to 2 microns, there are probably lots of other smaller chunks of abrasive products that will wear on OS, pump surfaces, especially injector tips, and pistons, upper cylinder walls. Perhaps not immediately noticeable, but absolutely wearing out your engine at a higher rate.

not to mention that it would be almost impossible to get a consistent viscosity of fuel for your pump to work with.

Probably a short term savings, but increased wear on the expensive parts of your truck in the long run.

guess i,ve been real lucky then,..;)

Are you saying hes ran on a full tank of just used oil?


He drove round trip from St. George to Idaho Falls, a distance not less than 1000 miles total on 100% filtered waste engine oil. It didn't run great, but he was pulling a trailer and running at freeway speeds.

As I understand it, engine oil's job is to grab the dirty by products of combusion, and the microscopic chunks of metal and encapsulate them so that they cannot continue to harm your engine. Oil technology is really good, to the point that the oil DOES NOT want to let go of this stuff. It's one of the main reasons that most used motor oil is not recycled into lube oil again. Even if you filter it down to 2 microns, there are probably lots of other smaller chunks of abrasive products that will wear on OS, pump surfaces, especially injector tips, and pistons, upper cylinder walls. Perhaps not immediately noticeable, but absolutely wearing out your engine at a higher rate.

Funny thing is, I thought the major purpose of oil was to cool and lubricate, not encapsulate stuff. You know that diesel fuel has "stuff" in it too, and thats why you have a filter on your engine--too remove the big "stuff" and let the "stuff" that doesn't matter slide by.

not to mention that it would be almost impossible to get a consistent viscosity of fuel for your pump to work with.

True, though the pumps are flexible enough to accomodate a good range of viscosities. My 50:50 mixes are plenty runny to make it through the pump.

Probably a short term savings, but increased wear on the expensive parts of your truck in the long run.

All I have to do is drive 5000 miles on a 50:50 mix of diesel/used oil with diesel at 3.79 per gallon to get to the break-even point for IP replacement. I haven't had a IP quit on me yet, and I've got way more than 5000 miles. I've saved money!

He drove round trip from St. George to Idaho Falls, a distance not less than 1000 miles total on 100% filtered waste engine oil. It didn't run great, but he was pulling a trailer and running at freeway speeds.

I wish I could see this truck run on it.

Funny thing is, I thought the major purpose of oil was to cool and lubricate, not encapsulate stuff. You know that diesel fuel has "stuff" in it too, and thats why you have a filter on your engine--too remove the big "stuff" and let the "stuff" that doesn't matter slide by.



True, though the pumps are flexible enough to accomodate a good range of viscosities. My 50:50 mixes are plenty runny to make it through the pump.



All I have to do is drive 5000 miles on a 50:50 mix of diesel/used oil with diesel at 3.79 per gallon to get to the break-even point for IP replacement. I haven't had a IP quit on me yet, and I've got way more than 5000 miles. I've saved money!

I agree with you on that, at $4.72 a gal I can buy IPs just from the savings in fuel cost.

I am not sure if particles down to 1 to 2um will do damage to the fuel system.

The original study done by cat put the offending particle size around 4-6um...which is why I believe they developed the CAT 1R0749 2um filter.

The problem I have experienced with used motor oil and fuel is that you may get varying weights in the fuel the filter trap sees effectively causing the heavier mix to sit at the bottom of your filters. This causes restriction in your fuel system.

The only solution I see is to filter with a 2um 1R0749( I use the wix version) two times and use a small amount every tank.

For those like me who put on a lot of miles and I use the Airdog that recirculates the fuel, then it should not be a problem. But I would not recommend anything over say 2% per tank.

You also need to drain your filter traps more regularly.

I know a few guys that run no more than 1 gallon of waste oil per tankfull with zero problems. They use paint filters for the waste oil before it goes in.

Lets not be stupid about this kind of stuff, there are no-minds out there that might be stupid enough to do it. I am old enough to have been in the industry when they tried this crap, I was working in a logging camp and they bought into the program. They bought this machine that had 2 of these 750D luberfiner filters, they had limestone in the filters to get out the acid, they mixed the waist oil with fuel and filtered it threw the filter packages for about an hour. The filters were changed after about the third truck. It had about a twenty gallon reservoir it sucked in the oil and the fuel in about a 50/50 mix heated it and filtered it. The trucks they used it in the most were the 1710 Cummins, they used about 60 quarts of oil about 40 in the oil pan that we used. They also tried it in the 12V 71 Detroit's they used about 40 quarts 30 in the pan. The machine was put right beside the truck and sucked the fuel right out of the fuel tank they had a very large fuel tank as these where 849, and 850 Kenworth off Highway trucks. Management was oh so proud of this machine, it would save them so much money in fuel and waste oil. Then reality sunk in within the oil change cycle of the fleet which was 30 days we started having injector problems. These injectors in the Cummins were as basic a unit as they come and had a very large holes in the tip, three times what they use in the 90's models. The Detroit's ran the old high valves and had a very low popping pressure and large holes as well. We had trucks parked waiting for injectors. at first we were changing them as a matched set then we were just changing the ones that seized or blew the tip. The machine was used for about two cycles 60 days I was changing Injectors and PT fuel pumps for a year after that. I made a fortune in overtime. So if you think it is a good idea then do it and when you have all your fuel system replaced a couple of times, that includes the fuel tank and lines as the acids will eat them also, and with the learning curve on your tune up your fuel mileage will be right up to snuff by then. IGNORANCE IS BLISS, IT'S GOOD FRIDAY. lets try and be a little less blissful. PLAY SAFE!
I know this much and that is you really blow smoke,I drove for a company that bought into this system in the 80's,I can remember they put the oil threw the filtering system and them dumped it into the main fuel tanks then they filled our trucks with the mix,I'm not sure as to the running but the stores we went to complaned about the smell and the smoke,really bad so this soon went the way of the trash and no money saved.
I have the 2007 3500 Duamax and I'm not sure,but standard diesel is only thing I will burn till there is none just not safe to try.
Diesel is high but not to the point of messing up my truck.
The day we can't get fuel is the day I will start running anything that flows and combusts.

I run my waste oil from my truck through a paint filter in a funnel and dump that into my bed tank. About 2 1/2 gallons of used oil per 80 gallons of so of fuel for the last 15k miles. The fuel is double filtered before getting to the engine, once through a 1R0749 and once through the factory filter/water separator. The only side affect from using waste oil is that when it's cold out, the viscosity increases and I don't seem to get quite as much power or smoke from the exhaust as I do when running straight #2. EGT's also climb higher a little quicker with waste oil, but not bad enough to make me stop using it.

i mix waste oil into my fuel tank, old oil, tranny fluid, old kerosene, whatevers sitting around the shop. exhaust smells funny, but not as funny as saving four+ dollars a gallon at the dang pump!

The old mechanical injection system typically ran at around 1,500 to 2,100 psi and had much larger tolerances than current common rail engines.

The injection pump and injectors in a Duramax engine run at very high pressures (as high as 26,000 psi) and have extremely close tolerances. Engine oils, particularly used engine oil has all kinds of trace elements that are not found in diesel fuel. They can create havoc with the injection system.

Below are some of the elements that can be found in used engine oil
Aluminum: Pistons, bearings, cases (heads & blocks).

Chromium: Rings, a trace element in steel.

Iron: Cylinders, rotating shafts, the valve train, and any steel part sharing the oil.

Copper: Brass or bronze parts, copper bushings, bearings, oil coolers, also an additive in some gasoline engine oils.

Lead: Bearings.

Tin: Bearings, bronze parts, piston coatings.

Molybdenum: Anti-wear additive, coating on some new rings (washes off as break-in occurs).

Nickel: Trace element in steel.

Manganese: Trace element, additive in gasoline.

Silver: Trace element.

Titanium: Trace element.

Potassium : Antifreeze inhibitor, additive in some oil types.

Boron: Detergent/dispersant additive, antifreeze inhibitors.

Silicon: Airborne dirt, sealers, gaskets, antifreeze inhibitors.

Sodium: Antifreeze inhibitors, additive in some gasoline engine oils.

Calcium : Detergent/dispersant additive.

Magnesium: Detergent/dispersant additive.

Phosphorus: Anti-wear additive.

Zinc: Anti-wear additive.

Barium : Detergent/dispersant additive.
How can you tell how much harm any of these can cause? GM strongly advises NOT to use engine oil (new or used), 2-cycle oil or ATF in the fuel for obvious reasons.

In my opinion, the risk of damage strongly outweighs any saving that could be achieved by burning the used diesel engine oil as fuel.

I think a military IP for a 6.2 would be the one to have. I heard those were built to handle nasty fuel.

The old mechanical injection system typically ran at around 1,500 to 2,100 psi and had much larger tolerances than current common rail engines.

The injection pump and injectors in a Duramax engine run at very high pressures (as high as 26,000 psi) and have extremely close tolerances. Engine oils, particularly used engine oil has all kinds of trace elements that are not found in diesel fuel. They can create havoc with the injection system.

Below are some of the elements that can be found in used engine oilAluminum: Pistons, bearings, cases (heads & blocks).

Chromium: Rings, a trace element in steel.

Iron: Cylinders, rotating shafts, the valve train, and any steel part sharing the oil.

Copper: Brass or bronze parts, copper bushings, bearings, oil coolers, also an additive in some gasoline engine oils.

Lead: Bearings.

Tin: Bearings, bronze parts, piston coatings.

Molybdenum: Anti-wear additive, coating on some new rings (washes off as break-in occurs).

Nickel: Trace element in steel.

Manganese: Trace element, additive in gasoline.

Silver: Trace element.

Titanium: Trace element.

Potassium : Antifreeze inhibitor, additive in some oil types.

Boron: Detergent/dispersant additive, antifreeze inhibitors.

Silicon: Airborne dirt, sealers, gaskets, antifreeze inhibitors.

Sodium: Antifreeze inhibitors, additive in some gasoline engine oils.

Calcium : Detergent/dispersant additive.

Magnesium: Detergent/dispersant additive.

Phosphorus: Anti-wear additive.

Zinc: Anti-wear additive.

Barium : Detergent/dispersant additive.How can you tell how much harm any of these can cause? GM strongly advises NOT to use engine oil (new or used), 2-cycle oil or ATF in the fuel for obvious reasons.

In my opinion, the risk of damage strongly outweighs any saving that could be achieved by burning the used diesel engine oil as fuel.


I do understand the concern about used oil which is why I filter it 3 times before going to my pump (paint filter for big stuff which I've never had, 1r0749 for 2 micron filtering, plus my stock filter). If anything, I've noticed that my engine runs much quieter and smoother with a 70:1 diesel/oil mix than without it. I'm no expert, so I can't say that it is or isn't good for the fuel system, but if 2 2 micron filters can't clean the fuel up enough to make it at least half way useable for the injection pump, then what is the point to having 2 micron filters?? I may pay for this down the road, I might not.... but for me it works good, my balance rates are better, and it's what I'll keep doing until my personal experience tells me otherwise. Not trying to start a pissing match, but this is my honest 2 cents to the thread :)

So far mine has run good with oil in the tank once I got a new filter in. I had quite a few miles on the one that was in it and it got clogged up quick.
A well known vendor on here ran from Vegas to Denver once on 100% filtered hydrolic oil in an 03 D-Max. Hydrolic oil may be safer due to the fact it probably doesn't have so much crap in it but with the miles some of us run saving $$$$ is important.
If fuel gets down to $3 again I won't be so concerned but at $4 it's rediculous :mad:.

So far mine has run good with oil in the tank once I got a new filter in. I had quite a few miles on the one that was in it and it got clogged up quick.
A well known vendor on here ran from Vegas to Denver once on 100% filtered hydrolic oil in an 03 D-Max. Hydrolic oil may be safer due to the fact it probably doesn't have so much crap in it but with the miles some of us run saving $$$$ is important.
If fuel gets down to $3 again I won't be so concerned but at $4 it's rediculous :mad:.

I couldnt imagine running pure hydraulic oil in it. And it a Dmax, thats crazy or he has $ to spend on parts. But I do see what you mean by it should be cleaner.

He gets it free and no it hasn't had any ill effects other than extra smoke ):h.

I couldnt imagine running pure hydraulic oil in it. And it a Dmax, thats crazy or he has $ to spend on parts. But I do see what you mean by it should be cleaner.

I would imagine that smokes like a cold, angry freight train! I want to see that!

i started testing this used oil thing tonight 50 50 mix is very thin next batch is going to be 70 30 and we will see how she does as long as its filtered there is no issue i am going to under a micron so i am way clean and for all of you scared to do it save your used engine oil for someone that can use it all it has to do is make it past the injector nozzel and the rest is smoke coming off the tires

Keep us posted, I am interested. I've never gone over 12 qts in a 26 gallon tank. Let us know what happens.

A well known vendor on here ran from Vegas to Denver once on 100% filtered hydrolic oil in an 03 D-Max. Hydrolic oil may be safer due to the fact it probably doesn't have so much crap in it but with the miles some of us run saving $$$$ is important.


Could you find out what weight/viscosity of oil that was? I know the some of our hydraulic oil is pretty heavy stuff, but then some of it is like auto tranny fluid. I might try to run some of the oil in my pickup. I want pictures of any truck running on straight used oil!:eek: Sounds very interesting!!
later,
robert

Could you find out what weight/viscosity of oil that was? I know the some of our hydraulic oil is pretty heavy stuff, but then some of it is like auto tranny fluid. I might try to run some of the oil in my pickup. I want pictures of any truck running on straight used oil!:eek: Sounds very interesting!!
later,
robert

Alot of newer equipment uses a thiner hydraulic oil. The old stuff used 80-90 gear lube, I wouldnt want to dump that into the tank. :D

now on tank 2 of 50 50 mix only notick problem when cold like 40 degrees fuel rail pressure gets to low and limps truck but at 65 on up no issues have pulled 13600lbs no issues exhaust does smell bad and at idel it smokes like its got 500000 miles on it but hey i am buring oil just put the lift pump on today and drilled the drivers side injector rail fitting from the pump so i will see if this helps on colder days like tommrow AM hope it starts:D

ok i just changed my oil can i filter it and mix it with diesel and pour in tank sounds crazy to me :cool::cool: where do i get the proper filters and any ideas on this would be appreciated

Call me crazy but for the last year I just dump my oil fresh from the pan into a clean bucket and dump that into my fuel tank. The fuel runs from my tank through a 1R0749 Cat filter then through my factory filter and from there feeds the engine. That'd be about 2 1/2 gallons of oil per tank. Sometimes I also put it into the tank in the bed of my truck as well (90+ gallons) if it's other people's "clean" used oil. So far so good, the engine is less noisy with some oil mixed in.

napa can set you up with what you need just filter it at or below 2 microns i got a harvard filter set up that is doing under a micron but its really expensive to buy and slow it only does 1 gal a min. or so