just wonderin if anybody has the specs for the 6.5 injectors. im gonna pull mine soon and test em at school.

opening pressure, closing pressure, seat leak, back leak, and what is the spray pattern supposed to be like? thanx.

anybody got a clue on this? im readin the auto repair reference center on ebsco host and it is sayin 1700psi opening pressure.

i think thats pretty close for stock, IIRC my hi pops are set @ either 2150 or 2250, i'd have to do a search here for hi pops to be sure as my mind is going!

I was thinking the 6.2s were 1700 and the 6.5s were about 1900, but don't quote me.

Just reading the Chiltons manual and they state that the minimums for the 6.2 are 1500psi opening and if below to replace and 1700psi for the 6.5's.
Again this reads as minimum psi's and if they do not open, to replace that injector.
Hope that helps.
mark

Bosch spec for the 6.5 turbo injector is 142Bar (2060PSI)

TDG,
Was Bosch the stock injector for these vehicles during the earlier years? I do understand that they were for the D-max's(I think).
Was there another brand that had different specs from then.
I am only asking this in a learning perspective and confusion from the book. I need to know these things as I'm trying to do alot of the work on my truck myself(and with the great help from you guys on this site and gm-diesel.com).
I do realize that the book can be incorrect and of course any kind of mods will throw the book in the trash(for the most part).
Mark

Bosch is the OEM yes, Lucas/Delphi makes the injectors too, identical in look performance and specs.

Thanks.
One of these days when I change mine out, I'll try to see what the MFG is. I would assume if Bosch in OEM then that is what it would be since I know the origional owner was by far any kind of modifier...
Mark

QUOTE=Diesel Pro]All GM injectors use a Zero degree spray angle. The pattern does not change with pressure increases. The Zero angle means it sprays straight out from the nozzle whereas some spray out at a slight angle, like an inverted cone. The naturally aspirated engines pop at 126bar./1827 PSI. The turbo injectors pop at 142bar/2060 PSI. The pressure is adjusted by adding or subtracting shims. A shim thickness of about 0.002" equals ~100 PSI.

Early 6.2's O SD248 nozzle 126 bar.

Short Body 6.2's OSD253 nozzle 126bar.

All 6.5's OSD304 nozzle 126bar. (turbo popped at 142 bar)

Higher pressure does not equate to more fuel. Actually put out less at much higher pressures.

How does one know if their injectors are doing so properly(without any expensive gadgets)? Cause I don't have any. I just want to know where my truck is.
Mark

How many miles are on them? They usually go ~100,000 miles, sometimes longer. Rough idle is the biggest sign, they can cause black or white smoke, or a knock when they go bad.

88,250 +/- a couple of miles. I have been wondering.
How difficult of a project is it to change out the injectors? What would be a good replacement for the origionals?
Mark

On your truck, go with plane-jane rebuilds or new ones if you gots the $$$$. Do it yourself project, it can be done, no prob, it might take you a full day to figure out how to get everything out of the way and back together again. A shop that does them on a regular basis could probably change them in 2~3hrs.
Have you checked all the basics, fuel filter, supply pressure, pump timing? You might be able to remedy the problem and get some lost HP back without buying a new set, they might not even be your problem.

how much do new nozzles cost? maybe ill just rebuild my own.

TDG,
Fuel filter is new. changed it 5 times over the last year due to me thinking the tank was bad and emitting metal pieces into it. So far it turned out to be a bad lift pump and bad OPS. During that time, I was getting about 14.9 MPG and now it has gone down to about 12.9 MPG. I don't understand why it would go down after making thing work correctly. Again I am confused.
Also, How do I adjust my Idle on this DB2? Is it the screw on the drivers side of the IP with the spring on it, and if not, what is that screw for?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Mark
P.S. Yes I do need to go as inexpensive as possible.

I have received a price for (new)??? injectors from a KOI Auto parts shop for $32.00-$35.00 a piece and from an authorized Stanadyne shop(injector shop) for about $38.00 a piece. I would assume they are rebuilt.
Mark

They're probably NEW from DELPHI, just as good as the Boschs IMHO.
and Yes, thats the L.I. adjusting screw with a spring under it. Check your Fast Idle solenoid to make sure its not interfering with the lever returning to L.I. position too. Same thing to adjust Fast Idle speed, turn the screw on top of the solenoid in to make high idle faster, push on it to see how fast it will idle when energized, when not energized, it should fall out of the way.

Is that how the fast idle solenoid works?????? I think I broke mine although I believe it was bad anyway. I have it disconnected for now until I can afford a new one. I use a cordless circular saw to idle higher in the morning.
What if I adjust the idle screw to 700 rpm at running temp in neutral, and the next day the idle goes back down to 550 to 600? I do think I have a timing chain issue since when I open the oil fill cap during idle and I hear a ring-a-ding ding going on and I have a small leak coming from the front crankshaft seal. Again, when I have the $$$$ I want to change the seal, and while it's all out, the HB, timing chain and gears. That way I'll know where I'm at from this point on and it should last for a while from there. Could this be where my MPG loss has come from?
Mark