: Upper Coolant hose weird fitting - busted
Pillow 03-17-2008, 10:59 PM Very scientific title there ;)
I know there was a great thread on the repair of the upper coolant line oddball fitting... But I am not sure what to search under to get the correct results.
Any help in figuring out where the post went or an update on how the oddball fitting works would be excellent.
Currently the fitting is snapped off right at the coolant crossover inlet... Not good. The plastic is just crazy brittle and will crumple with little effort, it basically fell apart when I touched it... How it stayed together on the highway is beyond me.
Thanks!
Turbine Doc 03-17-2008, 11:08 PM It's not plastic, it's "pot metal" acts like a zinc corrosion annode and rots away, some replace with new made of steel some parts stores have them under the "Help" carded stuff, others choose to use hose barb/pipe thread fitting. I posted thread with pics last year why I don't like OEM style and replacement pics have to search maybe somebody remembers it off hand where post is located I don't
carefully as best you can with punch break out remaining metal, and run 1/2" npt pipe tap thru it to clean threads
Turbine Doc 03-17-2008, 11:14 PM It's not plastic, it's "pot metal" acts like a zinc corrosion annode and rots away, some replace with new made of steel some parts stores have them under the "Help" carded stuff, others choose to use hose barb/pipe thread fitting. I posted thread with pics last year why I don't like OEM style and replacement pics have to search maybe somebody remembers it off hand where post is located I don't
carefully as best you can with punch break out remaining metal, and run 1/2" npt pipe tap thru it to clean threads
Pillow 03-18-2008, 08:02 PM Thanks TD!!!
The post you did a while back was excellent... If I could find it again :)
I will tap it out and see what happens.
Thanks!
drewkeen 03-18-2008, 08:28 PM Just put a barb and hose on there and get rid of that stupid fitting that will leak again.
jifaire 03-18-2008, 08:55 PM There is a couple of ways to get the fitting out of there... some guys use a cut-down hacksaw blade to slice into the fitting and then a screwdriver to just pop the slices out of the hole... seems to be about the easiest way. Easy-outs tend to clake the stuff off.
Here's a thread on the whole thing, including pictures:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=205708
There is a restrictor in there that is reputed to be necessary for the heater core, and NAPA carries a steel fitting to replace the magnesium one for about $8, so I wouldn't go putting a hose barb in there, just yet. You can fix it right for cheap, too.
All the information you need is in that thread.
Ax Subman 03-19-2008, 01:05 AM I had posted this in one of the other threads...
I replaced my quick connect with the barbed fitting with restrictor.
GM#15963984 AC Delco#15-30569 I'm told this is the fitting that GM used in the 6.2 before they changed over to the factory assembly time saving quick connect.
tommystunes 03-19-2008, 01:04 PM Has anyone that replaced with a hose barb had heater trouble?? Sounds like an engineer trying to justify his position to me...t
irelandd 03-19-2008, 01:09 PM No heater trouble on my replacement. I bought the part from autozone and took the restrictor out.
No problem with the heater after I replaced the factory quick-connect (aka "quickly-rotten-connect") with the barbed fitting and heater hose. I found the solution to be a great work-around. In light of full disclosure I use the heater but do not leave it on all day- I live in Southern California :). Now if I could only get my AC to work.. I think my AC compressor went out!
Jon
Has anyone that replaced with a hose barb had heater trouble?? Sounds like an engineer trying to justify his position to me...t
jifaire 03-19-2008, 02:40 PM Has anyone that replaced with a hose barb had heater trouble?? Sounds like an engineer trying to justify his position to me...t
Yeah, there actually were a couple of people who posted about that, and about replacing their heater cores; I remember reading their posts, 'cause I thought like you do.
If you can get the fitting with the restrictor in it, and it's cheap, why take a chance?
The steel quick-connect from NAPA has been reported to work well. personally, I like the idea that Ax Subman posted above, where he used the barbed fitting with restrictor from the 6.2L ... best of both worlds!
Thanks for the part #, Ax!
jmiller 03-19-2008, 06:46 PM x2 on the Steel fitting from Napa, replace mine, no issues. was under $10
Pillow 03-20-2008, 12:22 AM Does anyone happen to have the NAPA part number on that item? I tried thier website, but the search sucks.
... And the local NAPA closed and turned into a JK Auto Parts... So I have to drive into the next town to get to a NAPA. Arg!
Thanks!
jifaire 03-20-2008, 12:35 AM Adrian, I just did a quick search with the terms NAPA HEATER FITTING and got the earlier threads about replacing it (with pics) and the thread about the restrictor in the line.
But no NAPA part number.
However, the GM steel part number is in there... and it's like $10. Cheaper than driving to the next town to get the NAPA one for $8
Pillow 03-20-2008, 08:09 AM Thanks Jifaire.
The GM part number mentioned is: 15963984 (which seems to be from the 6.2)
When I tried to order it on GM Parts Direct it said that the NEW part number is 12597484... But I am not sure what this new number is. I definitely do not want to end up with the same cruddy fitting :(
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