So I got my 2 sets of injectors I ordered from Tim (Accurate Diesel) on Friday. They are new Bosch and all test perfect. Other than the stupid $60 duty charge, which no one has any control over, all is good. Thanks Tim!

I started to install them at 2pm this afternoon. I removed the turbo but left the inner fender in place. This is the same way I do all injectors on our trucks, removin' only the turbo. I used the original return lines and steel clamps to hold them on. 5pm rolled around and I was done. 3 hrs for full install removin' only the turbo, 15 minute coffee break, and testin' of the 8 injectors I took out.

I'm not braggin' about the time, just pointin' out to the skeptics that it can be done in short time if you know what your doin', cuz I know there are skeptics.

I've attached a few pics of the turbo side, showin' that I did use the clamps and original hose, not the push on stuff. Also shows that you can get a torque wrench behind the manifold with turbo removed. The socket I use is 1/2" drive, 1-3/16", works perfectly for me. Also is a pic of the 3 needle nose pliers I use. If you plan on usin' the original return hose, these will be your best friend for the clamps.

And I'd also like to wish everyone today a great big friggin' HAPPY ST. PATTY'S DAY!!! :beerchug: Why is this not a holiday???

awright, I guess you sold me on having to yank the turbo. I was going to try doing it just by sacrificing most of the flesh off my knuckles.
one question though. Those four bolts that hold the turbo on, do I need to worry about snapping them off, then doing the old drill and tap routine? Or are they pretty strong bolts? Mine are a bit rusty looking, and I F'ing hate breaking bolts. I can soakify them with PB weasel pi55 first.

awright, I guess you sold me on having to yank the turbo. I was going to try doing it just by sacrificing most of the flesh off my knuckles.
one question though. Those four bolts that hold the turbo on, do I need to worry about snapping them off, then doing the old drill and tap routine? Or are they pretty strong bolts? Mine are a bit rusty looking, and I F'ing hate breaking bolts. I can soakify them with PB weasel pi55 first.

Soak'em and try. They are studs. If they break, you can remove them once the turbo is off and on the bench. Then you can buy a new set of studs or put it back on with bolts. I used bolts cuz I had them.

Awesome!!! Great snapshot of the injectors. What size bolt is for the turbo?

Thanks.

So I got my 2 sets of injectors I ordered from Tim (Accurate Diesel) on Friday. They are new Bosch and all test perfect.

How did you test the injectors?

I would have liked to see pics of the torq wrench on the last injector on the passenger side. That's the toughest one to work on even with wheel well removed.. Why would you reuse the hoses? Didn't your new injectors come with new hoses?

I put my new injectors in a few days ago and also had no trouble getting my torque wrench on all the injectors. Also it doesn't take that long to pull the inner fender out and i found that the turbo mounting nuts are easier to get to and see with the fender out. I'm skinny so once the fender was out (tire was off too) i was able to stand up in throught the fender to work with turbo removal and injector work making it much easier to reach. but whatever floats yer boat....

Awesome!!! Great snapshot of the injectors. What size bolt is for the turbo?

Thanks.

3/8" X 1"

How did you test the injectors?

Used to have a pop tester, it broke. We made one from a body jack, pic is attached.

I would have liked to see pics of the torq wrench on the last injector on the passenger side. That's the toughest one to work on even with wheel well removed.. Why would you reuse the hoses? Didn't your new injectors come with new hoses?

Pic below of the torque wrench and extension I used on #8. I didn't order new return hoses with the injectors cuz the originals are fine.

I put my new injectors in a few days ago and also had no trouble getting my torque wrench on all the injectors. Also it doesn't take that long to pull the inner fender out and i found that the turbo mounting nuts are easier to get to and see with the fender out. I'm skinny so once the fender was out (tire was off too) i was able to stand up in throught the fender to work with turbo removal and injector work making it much easier to reach. but whatever floats yer boat....

This is true. If you want more room to play with gettin' the turbo off, remove the inner fender. The next set of injectors I have to install are goin' into our '95. It has 568 000km's on the original injectors :eek: and turbo has never been off. I will probably remove the inner fender on it cuz I think I'm gonna want the extra room.

Well I put the second set of injectors in the '95 today, which just rolled over 570 000 km's. I pulled the inner fender since the turbo has never been off and figured I was gonna need the extra room. I was wrong, everythin' includin' the 4 studs on the turbo came out very easily. I was totally amazed how easy it went.

I tested all 8 of the old injectors. #6 and #8 were still useable. 570 000 km's and they weren't shot. The rest were crap!

The hardest part was gettin' the injection lines loose. Every one that I tried to loosen turned the line and injector, so I had to hold the injector to break the lines loose. That's kinda a PITA to do on some of them.

The only real problem I encountered was some of the clamps broke easily, and one return line was shot. I usually have spare return lines lyin' around but couldn't find them today. I had to bite the bullet and buy one from the stealer. $24.50 before taxes for one line! Can you say "bend over", lol. The GM # is 14066305 if anyone is ever stuck and needs one. They are long enough to cut and make two by the way. Napa had the clamps in a pack of 16 for $8, the # is 705-1220. I know everyone usually goes with the clampless lines when buyin' injectors, but if you're stuck, there's the #'s.

Sorry no pics, forgot the camera at home!

"$24.50 before taxes for one line! Can you say "bend over", lol".

Stealers probably didn't even supply the lube when they got you to "bend over"

Here is a whole set from Heath for $33. It says sold out but I'm wondering if that is wrong because it has said that for months along with the injectors.

http://www.heathdiesel.com/P/HDP1131/

"$24.50 before taxes for one line! Can you say "bend over", lol".

Stealers probably didn't even supply the lube when they got you to "bend over"

Here is a whole set from Heath for $33. It says sold out but I'm wondering if that is wrong because it has said that for months along with the injectors.

http://www.heathdiesel.com/P/HDP1131/

Nope no lube, that cost an extra 5 bucks!

We needed this truck back on the road ASAP or else I probably would've bought the line kit from someone.

Thanks for the information. I’m doing mine for the first time tonight/tomorrow :think: ..trepidation!
Your write up and the pictures will come in handy as will that of another thread I found (love the search function).

I guess if it starts to go ugly early I can always stop and pull the fender well on the passenger side for better access. I might anyway as I need to pressure wash some of the heavy grease on this thing to better pin point the leaks. So much for saving time.:blahblah:

Question on the oil return line, any issues with the gaskets; good / bad or did you replace them regardless.

Thanks,
Paul

i'm about to do this install with my cousin who's 3rd year apprentice in mechanics. I have no doubt that we can get it done, but i was wondering if you could quickly tell me what i might need because my injectors didn't come with instructions.

first off my mounting kit came with only two metal clamps and two plug looking things, i'm assuming the plugs are for install protection, but the clamps in your pic look like you have two for each injector for the return lines.

it also came with two gaskets the first i'm 99% sure is for the head gasket (should i put this in even if my old one seems fine or just keep it for if the old one fails?) and the second in about the same size but a perfect circle, what is this one for?

Fineally i know the copper rings are a gasket for the injector but i remember reading that i should put something on the ring, or not on the ring but on the injector. I think it was lock tight, is this correct?

anyways i'd really appreciate any help, i have faith in my cousins ability but i just want to make this as dummy proof as possible because i can't afford to screw this up.

s_abercromby,
Don't use the plugs during install, the plugs and clamps are for the rear line on the furthest rear injector(basically dead ending the return lines). The rest all connect from one injector to the next.

Don't know about the gaskets without seeing them but I would guess they are for the upper intake.

Use anti-seize compound not lock tight on the injector threads, lest they become a permanent fixture in that engine.

Also adding to others above I changed mine in about two hours and I found that it was not necessary to remove the turbo, just remove mounting bolts, oil drain, and exhaust downpipe mounts and prop them all out of the way to perform R&R of injectors. this can all be done if you take 10 minutes to remove inner fender and pass front tire and access from inside the front fender. Drivers side is easy, simple change out, since nothing is in the way.

Have Fun!

teroma25, I bought my injection pump from Tim with Accurate Diesel and he was great. I would definitely buy from him again if needed in future.

Heya

1 - The plugs and clamps do indeed go on the the return fittings on injectors #7 and #8 (the 2 closest to the cab), and the return lines start at the steel collector lines in the front, and daisy-chain to the rear injectors. The rest of the return lines do not need clamps, although your stock lines may have them.

2 - (without seeing pictures) The 2 gaskets are likely for your turbo, since most people take the turbo out of the way during installation. The rectangular one is for the base of the turbo, and the round one is for the oil return line on the bottom of the turbo. (Head gaskets are about 25" long x 9" wide... what you got isn't a head gasket.)

3 - make sure when you remove the old injectors, you get the copper compression rings out with them... they help create a seal to the head. Remember, there is 22:1 compression in the cylinder, and you don't want to let it out. Make sure the threads are clean (a brush and a shop-vac has been reported to work really good to suck the carbon out of them). If the new copper rings fall off the new injectors, you can use a bit of loctite or copper-kote to hold them on... just a bit. Do NOT use anti-sieze on your injector threads - same with loctite, unless you have the right stuff (there are different kinds; the wrong stuff would be bad, and I'm not sure if AANY of it is the right stuff)

Bandaids, bandaids, bandaids. And turn up the ghetto blaster so the old folks next door can't hear you swear.

Don't ask how I know.

sorry, haha i didn't realize i said head gasket, i meant upper intake gasket, the other gasket is about the same diameter but it's circular and has no holes in it. i probably won't use em anyways so it's not a big deal, just curious.

about the lock tight and anti seize, let me see if i got this right, use anti seize on the threads so you can remove them next time, and use lock tight on the copper ring if you can't get it to stay on there while installing.

sorry, haha i didn't realize i said head gasket, i meant upper intake gasket, the other gasket is about the same diameter but it's circular and has no holes in it. i probably won't use em anyways so it's not a big deal, just curious.

about the lock tight and anti seize, let me see if i got this right, use anti seize on the threads so you can remove them next time, and use lock tight on the copper ring if you can't get it to stay on there while installing.

The round one is for a non turbo engine for the round air cleaner, pretty sure anyway.

Use anti-seize just under the threads, just a dab to hold the copper ring in place. No need for it on the threads. I dab 2 spots across from each other, put the ring on and turn it to coat itself in anti-seize. Won't fall off this way.

No. DO NOT use antiseize on the threads. You really don't want your injectors coming loose on you. Just clean the threads up real good before putting the new injectors in.

The loctite on the copper ring is used as 'goop' just to hold the ring in place while you put the injector in the hole. If you don't need it, don't use it.

Thanks for the information. I’m doing mine for the first time tonight/tomorrow :think: ..trepidation!
Your write up and the pictures will come in handy as will that of another thread I found (love the search function).

I guess if it starts to go ugly early I can always stop and pull the fender well on the passenger side for better access. I might anyway as I need to pressure wash some of the heavy grease on this thing to better pin point the leaks. So much for saving time.:blahblah:

Question on the oil return line, any issues with the gaskets; good / bad or did you replace them regardless.

Thanks,
Paul


The gasket stayed on the oil pipe on both these installs, and was still all there with no rips. I left it and used some rtv and they're both fine. If you have a new gasket def use it tho.

ok thanks a lot for the help

Hey where is every one getting their injectors from? I guess Heath is still out of them so where is the best place to order them?

The gasket stayed on the oil pipe on both these installs, and was still all there with no rips. I left it and used some rtv and they're both fine. If you have a new gasket def use it tho.

Thanks. I got the driver's side done and in only 3 1/2 hours! No worries, this is actually good for me considering every job I start seems to spawn at least 2 more. :nutkick:

:cool:For sale: Slightly used injector return lines; only 145k miles on 'em; cheaper than 'stealer' at $20 each; buy 'em by the set. Some are shorter than others, customized with knife. First come first served. S&H TBD. Sorry, bad sense of humor.

[quote=teroma25;2508311. Other than the stupid $60 duty charge, which no one has any control over, all is good. Thanks Tim!

[/quote]

I think that must have been applicable taxes or a shipping fee. IIRC there is no duty on diesel parts.

I think that must have been applicable taxes or a shipping fee. IIRC there is no duty on diesel parts.

Your right. The package was valued at $400, so we got charged the good ol' GST and PST on that $400. Since NAFTA we aren't supposed to pay duty on anythin' made in the US or Mexico. If they can prove it was shipped from the US but made overseas, you get the duty fee.

I bet the $60 was the infamous 'Brokerage Fees'.

USPS charges $5.00 ... FedEx charges $15 ... UPS charges an arbitrary amount.

Talk to your vendor about shipping USPS and either affixing a NAFTA certificate or certifying it as US Auto parts.

Well I put the second set of injectors in the '95 today, which just rolled over 570 000 km's. I pulled the inner fender since the turbo has never been off and figured I was gonna need the extra room. I was wrong, everythin' includin' the 4 studs on the turbo came out very easily. I was totally amazed how easy it went.

I tested all 8 of the old injectors. #6 and #8 were still useable. 570 000 km's and they weren't shot. The rest were crap!

The hardest part was gettin' the injection lines loose. Every one that I tried to loosen turned the line and injector, so I had to hold the injector to break the lines loose. That's kinda a PITA to do on some of them.

The only real problem I encountered was some of the clamps broke easily, and one return line was shot. I usually have spare return lines lyin' around but couldn't find them today. I had to bite the bullet and buy one from the stealer. $24.50 before taxes for one line! Can you say "bend over", lol. The GM # is 14066305 if anyone is ever stuck and needs one. They are long enough to cut and make two by the way. Napa had the clamps in a pack of 16 for $8, the # is 705-1220. I know everyone usually goes with the clampless lines when buyin' injectors, but if you're stuck, there's the #'s.

Sorry no pics, forgot the camera at home!

When I checked the local Nappa the clamps were $8 for 6.
Does anybody have a better source for these?

Hey where is every one getting their injectors from? I guess Heath is still out of them so where is the best place to order them?

X2
I need a set of new injectors for the 95 Tahoe

Tim from Accurate Diesel. He is a sight vendor and has several packages availible and from what I can tell from the ones I bought(And still not installed) they are genuine Bosch. Goldsburg ran the numbers on mine somehow to confirm. He sells them on gaybay as well as direct. Just watch the tune up combos with glowplugs. He carries WAP glowplugs not Bosch and from what I have heard about them they are not good. BTW he is an excellent vendor to deal with. I will buy my next set from him without hesitation. I like Heath but think Tims are a better deal

X2
I need a set of new injectors for the 95 Tahoe
And why are you not a member of the Elite two door owners club ???:D

And I'd also like to wish everyone today a great big friggin' HAPPY ST. PATTY'S DAY!!! :beerchug: Why is this not a holiday???
That is a damn good question.
Tioc Faidh ar lugh!!!
I probably spelled that wrong:D

It appears from Tim's website he is out of stock. No surprise there . Kickin myself in the as$ for not buying two sets.

When I checked the local Nappa the clamps were $8 for 6.
Does anybody have a better source for these?
If your part store has a HELP! Section, they are available in a package of 16 for $10 up here, probably cheaper down there. The Dealer up here is only $10 per clamp.:eek:
I have heard that using the no-clamp return line kit is the better way to go.

If your part store has a HELP! Section, they are available in a package of 16 for $10 up here, probably cheaper down there. The Dealer up here is only $10 per clamp.:eek:
I have heard that using the no-clamp return line kit is the better way to go.

We have the no clamps but could easily pull them off by hand and trhat made us a little cautious. I'd rather buy clamps than have areturn line cut loose

And why are you not a member of the Elite two door owners club ???:D

I guess I never saw the club. I frequently can only get online on the weekends. Just because that's the only time I'm home.
Sign me up.
I love my Tahoe. It's supposed to be my weekend machine. Lately it seems everybody else is using it. Mostly because of the intermintent dying of the 96 burb.

Snap-On makes a socket that makes changing the injectors much easier. The end of the socket is made to get a wrench on if you can't get your ratchet or extension on. We have lots of injectors in stock so give us a call. We also have return line hose that does not require those pesky clamps. The hose has a weave on it that works much like a Chinese finger clamp. We sell it by the inch. I do recommend using the clamps on the end caps. Call us on Monday and we would be happy to help!

And why are you not a member of the Elite two door owners club ???:D

I went to join & it said the club was closed

I went to join & it said the club was closed
club closed ?? It's just something we put in our signatures. I don't think there ever was an "official" club. I forgot what number were up to. I think Number 5 is availible.
OTC also makes the same socket for injectors. I have it. It's OTC # 5060. Was 40$ One of these days I'll use it.:D