the 1995 in sig did something new today. I started it up, strapped the kids in the back seat, and as I was climbing in, it just sputtered and then died. The service engine light came on, fired right up and ran with SEL light on. The engine seemed to sound louder, but ran and drove just fine. Ran errands all day long, and the same pattern repeated itself. About 30 seconds after start up (no SEL light), the engine would sputter and die, then I could fire it right back up and it would run, seeming fine, with the SEL light on.

When the PMD went, there was no SEL light.

I changed the filter, cleaned out the bowl, there was some crap in it, and fired it back up. purged the air and drained about a quart out of the t-handle valve, and no SEL light, no stall, and running great.

I have never seen any water in fuel light on the dash, so would I be correct in assuming that the SEL light comes on with water in fuel, or plugged fuel filter?

anybody?

Louder usually means fuel supply issues. What code did you get?

Couldn't get a code, since I shut the truck off and the code goes away. When I re-start it, the CEL light is off until it dies. Would the code stay in the computer?

Couldn't get a code, since I shut the truck off and the code goes away. When I re-start it, the CEL light is off until it dies. Would the code stay in the computer?yep it will stay in the computer until the key on, key off cycle happens 50 times without the code tripping again. it is still in the computer. if you have a generic code reader it will not read all codes, especially tranny codes. Ed

The codes are:
17 - High resolution circuit fault
18 - Pump Cam Reference pulse error
35 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Short)
54 - PCM fuel circuit error

I cleared them and could not get the engine to die. After dinner I'll take it for a longer drive, because it seems like it only acts up after the engine has been up to temp is shut off and then restarted while still warm.

Please don't tell me that my IP is about to die.

by the way, my lift pump is working fine and there is no air in the system

thanks,
jason

the PMD is a D-tech and is about 2 or 3 months old

Just to close out the thread, since nothing is more frustrating that a thread that ends without a solution....

It looks like it was the Optical sensor/encoder. Local shop sold me a replacement, and the swap was pretty straight forward. Followed the descriptions laid down in that link on the board here that outlines the swap, and Truck runs good. I'll post again in a couple of weeks just to make sure that that actually solved the problem.

The pump shop said that 99% of the time the IP's are replaced because of PMD failure or OS failure. Of the four pump shops I called in town, only one actually did the rebuilds in house(the one I ended up purchasing the part from). I asked the guy if I should be concerned putting a $250.00 part into an old pump and he said, "I wouldn't be. When we rebuild these pumps 99% of the time, the internals are in really good shape, with the exception of the Optic sensor" His suggestion, was to replace the optic sensor, and if that didn't fix the problem, he'd rebuild the pump using the parts I'd already purchased. It pays to know a good shop, I guess.

Just to close out the thread, since nothing is more frustrating that a thread that ends without a solution....

It looks like it was the Optical sensor/encoder. Local shop sold me a replacement, and the swap was pretty straight forward. Followed the descriptions laid down in that link on the board here that outlines the swap, and Truck runs good. I'll post again in a couple of weeks just to make sure that that actually solved the problem.

The pump shop said that 99% of the time the IP's are replaced because of PMD failure or OS failure. Of the four pump shops I called in town, only one actually did the rebuilds in house(the one I ended up purchasing the part from). I asked the guy if I should be concerned putting a $250.00 part into an old pump and he said, "I wouldn't be. When we rebuild these pumps 99% of the time, the internals are in really good shape, with the exception of the Optic sensor" His suggestion, was to replace the optic sensor, and if that didn't fix the problem, he'd rebuild the pump using the parts I'd already purchased. It pays to know a good shop, I guess.


Does anyone know if a 95 Gvan with a Y motor 6.5L with a mecanical lift pump, no PMD would have an OS or not, as I have the same symptoms as what is described in this thread?

Thanks,

If you've got a mechanical pump (no PMD) you won't have an optical sensor. Are you getting the same codes? I don't know about the vans, but I thought all 6.5's produced in 1995 had electric injection.

If you've got a mechanical pump (no PMD) you won't have an optical sensor. Are you getting the same codes? I don't know about the vans, but I thought all 6.5's produced in 1995 had electric injection.

Unfortunately the vans lagged behind the trucks......


I will try to get codes in the morning.

If the battery has been dead for a while, will codes still be there or do they go away. I have to use that jumper wire deal, and count blinking lights on the dash to get the codes......


Cheers,

If the battery has been dead for a while, will codes still be there or do they go away. I have to use that jumper wire deal, and count blinking lights on the dash to get the codes......
Cheers,

Yep. Paperclip worked great for me. This week was the first time I've read codes. It was simple. Each code repeats three times. Make sure you've got a pad to write the codes on, as I forgot the first two by the time I got through with the whole process.

Good luck. If it is the OS, don't be afraid, as it is not as intimidating as you may sound.

Yep. Paperclip worked great for me. This week was the first time I've read codes. It was simple. Each code repeats three times. Make sure you've got a pad to write the codes on, as I forgot the first two by the time I got through with the whole process.

Good luck. If it is the OS, don't be afraid, as it is not as intimidating as you may sound.

Apparently, My Y motor 6.5, is more like the 6.2, and this is only in the vans...no PMD, NO OS, NO TURBO, NO ELECTRONIC LIFT PUMP!

I'd be looking at the shut off valve if it's a mechanical pump

Are you having no-start when hot? DB2 mechanical pumps tended to fail that way. DB2's give you good service with not a whole lot of failures, except when they've reached the end of their service life. No hot start is an indicator of worn head/rotor in the injection pump... aka, new pump needed... that is if that's what problem you are having. The way to check that is to pour some room temperature water over the top of the pump during a no hot start. However, by the time you would get everything apart in a van, it's practically the next day, and the engine has cooled off anyway...

Are you having no-start when hot? DB2 mechanical pumps tended to fail that way. DB2's give you good service with not a whole lot of failures, except when they've reached the end of their service life. No hot start is an indicator of worn head/rotor in the injection pump... aka, new pump needed... that is if that's what problem you are having. The way to check that is to pour some room temperature water over the top of the pump during a no hot start. However, by the time you would get everything apart in a van, it's practically the next day, and the engine has cooled off anyway...

Last time I tried to start it last year however, it would not even start cold anymore....so I had the no hot start symptoms first, than it turned into a no start period.....not sure if me trying to crank it a lot could have added to the no cold start now?

I have been told by others I could install a cheap inline fuel pump down by the tank and it could help the IP and give it extended life if it is "tired", not sure how this operation works, but interesting...

how many miles on the van/pump?

how many miles on the van/pump?

It is a rebuilt long block with 20K miles, and a rebuilt IP was put in at the same time.

I bought a new lift pump for it, and when I popped my head underneath, the old mechanical lift pump looks shiny enough that it must have been changed at the same time the motor swap out was performed, so I have yet to try replacing that.

I'd be looking at the shut off valve if it's a mechanical pump

Are you referring to the t valve on top of the motor above the IP with a drain hose leading down?

And if so, what should I be looking at?


Thanks,

I was speaking about the only electrical connection to your pump, the fuel shut off valve. It's what kills the engine when you turn the key off. I'm not sure where it would be at on your IP, but if the engine just dies like the key was turned, my thought would be that would have something to do with it.

However, I've never worked on a truck with a mechanical pump....