Just wondering if anyone is runnins a 37" TOYO or Mickey Thompson with a 6" lift or not? Thanks in advance for any photos or info!!

Got 37 BFGs, but no Toyo or Mickey T's. The tire fit-ment will have a lot to do with wheel backspacing as well. I run a 20x10 with 4 5/8" inch b.s.

I had a 6" RCD on my '04 and I was running 37 13.50 17's (Mickey Thompson) Baja Claw Radials on 17 x 10 wheels. If you are willing to do a little trimming it will work fine.

is the RCD lift and the Pro Comp lift the same is there more adjustabablity it either of the two? I thought I had heard the pro comp had more adjustment because it was a full drop kit not just spindles hopefully somebody will chime in an help?

full drop will give you more adjustability because it drops the differential a full 6" without cranking the torsion bars therefore you can crank the tbars for an additional 2" of lift. thats why you see most full drop kits labeled as a 6-8" lift. now spindle lifts only drop the diff down 4.5" so to get the 6" out of the kit you have to crank the bars 1.5". running 37's on a spindle lift is very difficult, even a lot of 35's still rub with a spindle lift, so id say go with a full drop, thats what i have and i still had to do a pretty good amount of trimming to get the 37's not to rub. actually they do still rub on the back of the front fenders in certin situations like turning into a driveway and going over the gutter with any speed. sometime im going to trim the actual metal to get rid of that i just havent gotten around to it yet. as far as wheels and tires i run 37/13.5/37 Toyo MT's on 20x9 rims with a 4.5" backspace. more backspace and they wouldnt rub as bad but they wouldnt stick out as much and i like how they stick out past the fenders a little.
heres a couple pics:
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/foreman00081/100_1704.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/foreman00081/100_1717.jpg
here you can see the trimming to the front valence:
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/foreman00081/100_1712.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/foreman00081/100_1700.jpg

I don't have any new pics up yet but my pro comp kit is clearing 37's just fine. Haven't rubbed once. I also have mine cranked up pretty high. I'm going to run 38's whenever I can get some money together to buy rims and tires........again. I did have to stack another block in the rear to level it out though. I would do the pro comp kit because it gives you a true 6" lift straight out of the box. With the RCD you will have to crank the bars pretty far up to the 37's on there and trim some too.

I don't have any new pics up yet but my pro comp kit is clearing 37's just fine. Haven't rubbed once. I also have mine cranked up pretty high. I'm going to run 38's whenever I can get some money together to buy rims and tires........again. I did have to stack another block in the rear to level it out though. I would do the pro comp kit because it gives you a true 6" lift straight out of the box. With the RCD you will have to crank the bars pretty far up to the 37's on there and trim some too.

what size block did they give you with your kit and what size did you have to stack to level it? just curious cause i cranked my 6" kit to 8" up front but the 6" block that came with my kit was plenty to keep the back end just about level with the front, in fact its still just a tiny bit higher than the front without any additional blocks. also id say keep an eye on those stacked blocks, i dont think thats the safest idea as they could shift on each other which could be really bad if you were towing or hauling something heavy.

I used a 1 1/2" block ontop of the 4 1/2 that came with the kit. When we set it down the front was up pre-runner style. I know about stacking block's ........it's not the best idea and I do watch them a lot. I don't tow anythng heavy very often but I do take it as easy as I can when I do. I'm just too cheap to get springs for the rear, I'm planning on a SFA swap in the future so I don't want to try and get rid of them for half the money down the road. The second block has a center pin in it but I know still know what can happen. One good thing is the front diff is out and i'm finally doing the front gears. I wish I could actually see the fuel milage difference now that it's out. Diesel out here is $4.19 a gallon now.

2002 here. 6" Procomp cranked to about 7.5" with 7" Betts springs in the rear. I used to run a 5" block and an AAL to keep it kinda even. I have 37x13.50R17's on 17x8 MKW wheels with 4" BS. I wasn't rubbing a ton, but would rub the bumper off road, so I trimmed it. If I had 4.5" BS, I would have been fine.

Before trim:
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7z5f3/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/truck2506tire.jpg

After trim:
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7z5f3/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/TruckAfter.jpg

http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7z5f3/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/AlmostStuck.jpg

I think your truck looks badass. I have a 6" TC lift and I'm just itching to do the same thing to it. I want to run 37" on a 16" wheel. Did your ride get real ruff after you cranked the T-bars, and how are your CV angles?

I think your truck looks badass. I have a 6" TC lift and I'm just itching to do the same thing to it. I want to run 37" on a 16" wheel. Did your ride get real ruff after you cranked the T-bars, and how are your CV angles?


BigDmax, I've got a 6" TC lift with an add a leaf in the rear and minnor cutting running 37's. Check the Garage, I also took off the running boards that were on it since since the 245s. Shoulda took them off before I took these pics. It looks a lot taller now. You can do the 37s on the 6" TC.

My ride got a little worse, but nothing too bad.....dang truck rides like a bucking bronco no matter what! :D It's no worse with the lift on, thats for sure, it's almost better.

Here's a pic where you can kinda see my angles after I installed the Realifts (they are painted flat black now too):
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7z5f3/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/Realift.jpg

And here's a pic with no Realifts, just the ProComp and crank:
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7z5f3/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/truck2506cvangle.jpg

I have 135k on it now, and I've had to replace one wheel hub, and the pitman/idler in the front suspension. Ohh, and the upper balljoints, but that was done at the alignment as soon as I put the lift on. I ran from about 35k to 90k on 285's with a crank, and from 75k to now I've been on the 37s.