ok so i have done tons and tons of reading on the 6.5TD as that is what i want to purchase. I am familar with some of the issues and i am highly mechanically inclined and can do all work myself.

i was wanting a CC LWB DRW 2wd to lower down and daily but honeslty at fuel being 4 bux a gallon and the DRW having 4:10 gearing plus the additional rolling resistance from 2 more tires and wind resistance of the flares lets face it ill be most likely stuck around 16MPG. I am wanting to be fuel conservative (yes i know its a truck and wanst designed for fuel MPG)

I am now more thinking a C2500 extended cab (possibly CC) short or LWB not to picky there but must be ext cab.

I am aiming more towards the 3.42:1 gears if i can find em but am not opposed to the 3.73:1's either.

The truck will be used for some towing on occasion to tow my 84 toyota land cruiser to and from trails that are not so local in case i happen to break something i cannot fix there. the truck has a GVWR of 5360 when stock i would gestimate it is around 5500-5600 factoring in heavier tires and some of the things i carry in / on the truck. it is my understanding that a C2500 can tow 6500lbs with the 3.42:1 gears out back so im not worried about weight.

what i want to know is which engine or year should i aim at purchasing? a 92-93 with the mechanical injection pump (ive read slightly better fuel miledge fact or fiction?) or a 94-98 (dont think my budget will allow anything newer) with the electonic lift pump?

ok how about engines? one of the "S" vin coded L56 emisions engines or a "F" vin coded non emision "hd" chassis? again i have heard that one engine from another get fuel MPG diferences. I plan on adding a 3" straight pipe as well as giving it a nice free flowing intake and adding a boost gauge and pyro gauge before i get to hauling any sort of distance. I would like to do some mild performance mods but its not that important to me as i know it isnt a race car / truck.

lets hear it i want all yalls opinions. pro's and con's of each motor and years.

97+ have better cooling with dual t-stats. as for your 16mpg with a dually, i got 15.9 loaded with a camper and 18ft maxum, but that is in imperial gallons which are bigger than american gallons. ya'd think gm would get better with each subsequent year of manufacturing but that is not necessarily the case. some years blocks are better than others and 98 is prone to cracking. musta been a management change in 97. Ed

I think you might be right with the projected fuel mileage, and with the reasons why. 3.73s will make a difference to that, as would either a gearvendors or USGear auxilliary; you might be able to pick up a 3500 DRW cheap (for the reasons you mention) enough to afford the aux tranny... just a thought.

As for your other questions:

- from what I know, the 92/93 with the mech IP might be a bit more reliable (no PMD), but will likely have lower mileage (no computer control) and are not as efficient (GM-3 turbo). The PMD is an easy fix, it's nice to be able to 'chip' the computer to gain more performance and better tranny shifting, and with GM-x turbos, the bigger, the better, IAT wise.

"F" code engines are classed heavy-duty; the best part of that is the lack of an EGR, little bit better airflow (plenum) and ability to deal with higher boost pressures. From what I know, there's very little difference in fuel mileage between these; maintenance state and driving habits remain the biggest parts of the equation.

1997+ have better cooling dual thermostat setup, which is a good thing, especially if you're planning on towing at all.

2wd gets better mileage than 4wd, generally.

OK. That being said, I'd look for a decent 97+ F-code, 2wd; 2500 or 3500, (thinking about an aux tranny). If it was me.

whats an aux tranny?

and ED thats only 13.2 MPG us. so i would assume i am prolly pretty close on fuel mpg. I really want the CC, DRW, LWB but just dont think for my long distant driving i do sometimes would be effecient / cost effective (now if i get a good deal then ill get it reguardless). I plan on moving which would eliminate that long distance (400 miles round trip) every 2 weeks. maybe till then get the ext cab for a year then trade and get my DRW... thoughts.

so other than a 97+ for cooling reasons any more input?
I know what i want i know what to expect yall help me make the right choice now.

If you have interest and the desire you can always do a Veg. oil conversion, and then not worry about fuel prices. It is true that it takes time... but I enjoy doing the work, so it dont bother me none, and I get free fuel... if you go that route i HIGHLY recommend a 93 with the DB-2 injector pump (mewchanical) it will never have an issue with veg oil... the electronic pump can be picky

If you have interest and the desire you can always do a Veg. oil conversion, and then not worry about fuel prices. It is true that it takes time... but I enjoy doing the work, so it dont bother me none, and I get free fuel... if you go that route i HIGHLY recommend a 93 with the DB-2 injector pump (mewchanical) it will never have an issue with veg oil... the electronic pump can be picky


good to know.

i have looked into vegie for my cedes and if i go that route i would have an alternate tank specifically for the veg oil but the mechanical pump is a great point. my cedes is mechanical as well.

but i wont be doing that anytime soon as cost is a prohibiting factor tho good to keep in mind for later.

Check out JiF edit link to non-vendor lovecraftbiofuel removed

One tank Veggie Conversion, it's all under the hood. Runs WVO, VO, BIO or DIESEL.

They do tons of the Benz's.


US

What works on a Benz will not always work on a 6.5... especially an electronic 6.5... a mechanical benz will run off of just about anything remotly combustable, I've seen a guy start a benz his wife forgot to purge and it had gelled homogenated shortening/veg oil all the way from the liftpump to the injectors, and it started and ran until he was able to switch it back to diesel... the fuel wasnt even LIQUID! no 6.5 could handle that crap. Benz's are made different.

ok never said a benz and a 6.5 were the same nearly stated that the WVO is something i wouldnt mind doing.

US thank you for the web site i will check them out and see whats up and offered.

whats an aux tranny?

A gearvendors or USGear tranny is a gearbox that goes between your tranny and rear-end to add additional gears - sort of an under or overdrive that can be switched in or out. It's like adding another gear or two (or three).


and ED thats only 13.2 MPG us. so i would assume i am prolly pretty close on fuel mpg.

yeah, but 15.9 mpg (CDN) that EdZed reported is loaded right down... a big camper and a boat. 13.2 mpg (US) loaded down like that ain't all bad, amigo. I bet he gets 20-21 (CDN) = 16-17 mpg (US) empty, which is what you're talking about most of the time.

id love to see 17-18 maybe 18-19 if possible tho i know i may be pissing in the wind with my wishes.

i have been looking at Greasecar JiF edit link to non-vendor Greasecar removed for a WVO / SVO kit and it seems for around $1,500 i can get the whole thing then i just have to find someone who will let me have the old oil they dump then i can get my DRW for sure. tho only time will tell for sure to say what i get for my 2 old benzes.

Sorry guys, I have to remove non-vendor links. Mention the company, let google do the rest for those who want to go look.

While the greasecar system is the most affordable "system" out ther, I've worked on one and I'm not impressed. You can do a much better job on your own with the same money. My opinion of course, but some fo the stuff they use is just so small and weak, not made for a truck, it stuggles with a 240D, i dont think a 6.5 could do it.

While the greasecar system is the most affordable "system" out ther, I've worked on one and I'm not impressed. You can do a much better job on your own with the same money. My opinion of course, but some fo the stuff they use is just so small and weak, not made for a truck, it stuggles with a 240D, i dont think a 6.5 could do it.


even the "heavy duty" truck kit? as it shows they have a "light duty" and "heavy duty" kit for trucks.....

their definition of heavy duty is different from mine. They do have some good tihngs going for them, but for the price, they have nothing special. A 240 D is a VERY simple car to convert, and the kit barely gets hot fuel there, in fact the work I did was to install another plate heat exchanger pre IP so the fuel was actually hot enough. I did my 6.5 on my own for just about the same price, but my system is much more rugged and much better suited to a 6.5

yeah, but 15.9 mpg (CDN) that EdZed reported is loaded right down... a big camper and a boat. 13.2 mpg (US) loaded down like that ain't all bad, amigo. I bet he gets 20-21 (CDN) = 16-17 mpg (US) empty, which is what you're talking about most of the time.
the camper is kinda like a sailboat catching wind. takes some effort to overcome the wind resistance. and the boat probably weighed 2000 lbs. but even at that it takes more effort to overcome rolling resistance on the trailer. Ed

their definition of heavy duty is different from mine. They do have some good tihngs going for them, but for the price, they have nothing special. A 240 D is a VERY simple car to convert, and the kit barely gets hot fuel there, in fact the work I did was to install another plate heat exchanger pre IP so the fuel was actually hot enough. I did my 6.5 on my own for just about the same price, but my system is much more rugged and much better suited to a 6.5


could you send me some info on what u used / got parts ect. please im very interested.
always like to get best bang for the buck.

pm me is probally best.

thanks