Assuming you don't do a lot of burnouts and spinning, does anybody else find that the stock rear tires on the single rear wheel trucks wear out kind of fast? Is it something that has to do with the locking differential? I wonder if the tires really slip a lot every time you turn, but its just not enough to notice.
Maybe having a long wheel base truck has something to do with it, too. My back tires are worn more than the front, and not uneven or chatter wear, just flat.

Are you pulling a trailer a lot or have a load in bed?

Usually not anything heavy enough to make much difference.

Of course, they were also like that when I bought it, too, so maybe the last guy towed a lot, or liked to do burnouts. :confused:

Then it's hard to say. I thought you were keeping track of the tire wear yourself.

Generally speaking the front tires should wear faster than the rears (especially with open diffs front and rear). Every time you turn the front tires are forced to "scrub". In addition to that, the brake bias and weight transfer means the fronts do more braking than the rear (under normal use....unloaded) which addes to tire wear in the front.

When you spin the rear tires (non of us do right ):h ......) it will add to quicker wear and tear. The G80 should slip enough under light throttle cornering to keep wear less or equal to the front, if it were a spool or aggressive locker it would be much more.

Things that will affect treadwear are weight hauled and weight towed, the more weight you have in or hanging off the back will increase rear tire wear.

Ideally you should have to replace the fronts (ASSuming no tire rotation) before the rears, but that has never been the case for me (a quick look at my username will take care of any questions).

Hope this helps.

Well, somewhat present when I got it, but the trend seems to be continuing with me, too.

Of course, I have done a little spinning on them, too (look at my username). But, honestly, not enough to make much difference.

Is this a trick question?):h ):h ):h ):h ):h

I didn't rotate my last set of tires (Dunlop Radial Rover A/T) and just had to replace the rears only. I don't do intentional burnouts, kept 50 psi in the tires, towed some, run an empty bed - but it does have a fiberglass cap, 43 gallon aux tank and a pretty heavy Slide Systems box in there. I was surprised that they had worn so much quicker and evenly. Fronts had plenty of wear left, so I just put on a fresh set of rears for winter traction concerns.

Well I dont know how they would last if I didnt keep an active rotation program(via the pedal on the right):h )

But I will say

1. The comment"Of course, I have done a little spinning on them, too (look at my username). But, honestly, not enough to make much difference." cracks me up when you are asking about tire wear of the rears):h

2. Even if you arnt activly spinning the tires if you are on the throttle hard you are making the rears work pretty good and causing wear.....or more so than taking of normaly.

BTW, I really try to drive sane and not abuse the tires.....ever sice a incident that involved doughnuts and 1k of pavers in the bed and extreme tire wear I have relized that that kinda stuff gets expensive. So now I dont rotate, I by 2 tires at a time and just stuff em on the back, even without doing any burnouts(I havent in a long time) jumping on it and getting a little scratch here and there or just driving hard seems to nuke the rears pretty quick.

The fronts have it easy, just freewheeling and an occasional turn. How would you like to be on the recieving end of 400+lbft of torque used to make sure the little ricer doesn't beat you to the next light? Not even intentionally smoking the rears, I can hear the rears scrubbing as I take off most times. Do the rears wear more than the fronts? IMO yes, just rotate more often.

Two Words..... Air Pressure

Two More Words.... Sidewall Flex

The Final Word.... Rotation....

On our trucks, you must find the proper air pressure to have the correct side wall flex in order to have the proper contact patch for the tire. Some tires have a stiffer sidewall (less flex) and require lower pressure to get the proper contact patch.

Do this... drive on a dusty road (slowly) and get out and look at the width of the dust stripe on the tread. You want a stripe that nearly completely covers the tread from sidewall to sidewall. When that happens, you have achieved a good balance between sidewall flex (strength) and air pressure. That is your baseline for that tire given the current weight you are carrying. Different weights (payloads) require different pressures. An unloaded truck will usually require more pressure in the front than the back.

Whatever you do, don't run the tires at max pressure unless you need the carrying capacity. One Ford driver I knew insisted this his new GoodYears were crap because he was wandering all over the road. Turns out the installer maxed out the air pressure in each tire. In effect, the guy was driving his truck around on just enough tread for a bicycle.

I rotate the tires every 5000 miles and reset the air pressure baselines on the tires using the dust stripe test.

L8r

I have to agree on the scrubbing and wear even without burnouts. I mentioned that I don't spin my rears and another DMax owner cautioned me that I might not "intentionally" be spinning them but doing it a bit without realizing it. Sure enough, I had to cross a busy 2-lane the other day and gave it a punch when I got an opening - looked in the rearview and there were two faint black stripes across the highway that weren't there when I pulled up to the intersection!

I had to pull out at the bottom of a fairly steep hill w/ 14,000# behind.
Had a new set of 285 on my H2 wheels, u could hear/feel the tread asking for mercy.
I'm sure it killed a 1000+ miles of life climbing the hill.

Two Words..... Air Pressure

Two More Words.... Sidewall Flex

The Final Word.... Rotation....

On our trucks, you must find the proper air pressure to have the correct side wall flex in order to have the proper contact patch for the tire. Some tires have a stiffer sidewall (less flex) and require lower pressure to get the proper contact patch.

Do this... drive on a dusty road (slowly) and get out and look at the width of the dust stripe on the tread. You want a stripe that nearly completely covers the tread from sidewall to sidewall. When that happens, you have achieved a good balance between sidewall flex (strength) and air pressure. That is your baseline for that tire given the current weight you are carrying. Different weights (payloads) require different pressures. An unloaded truck will usually require more pressure in the front than the back.

Whatever you do, don't run the tires at max pressure unless you need the carrying capacity. One Ford driver I knew insisted this his new GoodYears were crap because he was wandering all over the road. Turns out the installer maxed out the air pressure in each tire. In effect, the guy was driving his truck around on just enough tread for a bicycle.

I rotate the tires every 5000 miles and reset the air pressure baselines on the tires using the dust stripe test.

L8r
What he said! If you think the rears are wearing faster than the fronts, look closely at the raer tires. You will probably see it is the CENTER of the tread that is worn significantly, and the outside portion of the tread is not. The center of the tread will wear quickly if the tires are overinflated, forcing the tire to contact the pavement only in the center of the tread. If you drive unloaded, 80 psi is WAY too much. 55 psi is what the FRONT tires require, and they are loaded with a diesel engine. If you drive empty dump some air in the rears. I generally keep all 4 at 55 psi. I tow occasionally. My tires STILL wear faster in the center of the rear tires. I would go down to a lower psi in the rears but I don't want to have to refill them when I tow.

Even at 55 in the rears with 5k# in a trailer, my tires don't buldge. SPICER

I have the same problem. Factory tires lasted right at 10,000 miles, then BFG A/T that lasted 12k. Now I'm running Pro Comp A/t and at 10k now and need replaced. I pull 5,000 lbs daily stop n go about 80 miles per day. Rotate every 3k miles. Tread wear is always even. I do not do burnouts but do drive rather hard on them.

Jason

Yeah, my stock rear bridgestone's lasted right at 10,000 miles.

20k on my work truck stockers, empty 80% of the time and 65 psi, the other truck We have 75 psi and loaded about 75% of the time, changed right at 34k. Both will eat 2 sets of rears to 1 set of front unless rotated every 5k. The HD in my sig eats the rears at the rate of 1 set every 7500 due to 95% towing, my reason for a dooley this time, we'll see if that helps.

are you still running on them slicks there ratlover? it maybe time???

I don't have problem with rear tires. It the front tires that take a beating. There is no way to align the front end. Empty or 900 lbs plow on the front or towing or 4,000 lbs in the bed or combination of them, so what condition you align the next day it will be wrong. I never had a truck that didn't tear up the front tires. It not worth rotating the tires then you just have to buy 6 tires instead of 2.

I run my "signiture series" slicks in the summer for added traction):h Then throw tires on the back with tread for the winter. Its a mother plowing with bald back tires.

:badidea: , i was told the best tire on ice is a slick, it makes the most contact ):h

The cords from the tires actually do add traction, especially steel belted radials.:grd:

:funnypost :iamwithst ):h