I just replaced my leaky lines with hyd, hoses. $65, I wanted to go with braided lines and a new cooler but needed to fix it now for a road trip. Leo

I just replaced my leaky lines with hyd, hoses. $65, I wanted to go with braided lines and a new cooler but needed to fix it now for a road trip. Leo
I got the braided kit from Greg, and while a good kit, for the price you can't beat $65 :D

did the go onto the oem fittings?
i need a set for my suburban they drip on my driveway and i have to put cardboard down where I park

Looks good! Can you share your shopping list for the fittings and hose. Where did you get the parts?
Thanks
I still need to do this to my suburban!

I got the hose and fittings at our local Bumper to Bumper/ tire shop/ farm supply place. Castor is a small town so one store supplies many things. The hose is 1/2" double braid hyd. hose. The block 90* fittings have 3/8" male npt. on one end and 1/2" JIC. on the other end. One end of the hose has a crimped on fitting that has a 1/2" compression fitting to go on the original 1/2" aluminum pipe that was cut below the rad. The other end of the hose has a 1/2" JIC. female swivel that is crimped on the hose. I don't know brand names or part #'s as it was just put on my account so I haven't got the receipt. The total length of one hose with fittings is 42" the other is 44". I had to remove about 1/8" of material off of the filter housing edge because of interference with the hoses. Turbine Doc has a picture of that in his thread about the oil filter housing. Leo

What is the temp rating of that hose? I don't want to be the nay-sayer but I looked into using hydraulic hose and found that it's not rated for high enough temps for that application.

If it is then good for you...great job at a great price.

Dave

Will you please post the part numbers once you get your receipt. I need to do this to mine and this seems like a good alternative if it will withstand the heat as Dave12 said above.

What is the temp rating of that hose? I don't want to be the nay-sayer but I looked into using hydraulic hose and found that it's not rated for high enough temps for that application.

If it is then good for you...great job at a great price.

Dave

I would have to look into that but i know I've had hyd. hoses so hot you couldn't touch them. And I've welded until blisters formed on my fingers so I can take the heat. That or I'm stupid.:D

Will you please post the part numbers once you get your receipt. I need to do this to mine and this seems like a good alternative if it will withstand the heat as Dave12 said above.

I'll do that. Leo

The most common hose you will find used will be rated for 212*F. High temp hoses are good for 275-300*F. That being said, some of our equipment will run on the high side of 200*F during the summer (usually from 2:00-5:00pm) and we run the 212* hoses and don't have any problems.

Dave how hot does your engine oil get?

Dave how hot does your engine oil get?

I have not idea. I just know that when I looked into this last year I was told that hydraulic hose is not rated high enough. I can't remember who it was that told me but it was here on the site.

Dave

10-4, just thought you might know.

Anyone have a temp guage on their engine oil?

Had a temp gauge on my 6.5 in the pan. If pulling hard it would go to 275* in a heart beat. Average was 180-200.


Greg

would a hose shop have the parts?

They should. I got mine in a small town shop where hyd. repairs is only one part of the business. Leo

the 1/2 compression fitting is what I doing but I'm just replacing the hose part using Two comp fitting, leaving the rest there. Any good farm store is going to have them or can get them there just like copper comp fittings.
But there designed for steel lines or alum and they climp right on the hose
cost me right at 35$ I'll get the pics when the cam get sto the computer.

I keep it in the shop so I get the whole build up.

very easy fix

Had a temp gauge on my 6.5 in the pan. If pulling hard it would go to 275* in a heart beat. Average was 180-200.


Greg

Pay attention to this info guys before everyone runs out and makes up oil lines using hydraulic hose. Most hydraulic hose is only rated to about 200* F max.

Dave

When a steel compression fitting is used on soft thin wall tubing you usually use an I.D. sleeve to support the tubing. This I.D. sleeve improves sealing and reduces stress on the thin wall tubing. If your adapter fittings on the cooler end were clamped in place I would worry less about the aluminum tubing failing. Possibly a better fix would be to flare the aluminum tubing and use a JIC (SAE 37 degree flare) fitting. The O.D. sleeve normally used on tubing flared for JIC fittings will help support the thin wall. I could not find a picture of an I.D. sleeve, look here page 204 for JIC & ferrule type seal.
http://hydraulics.eaton.com/products/pdfs/fc/A-HOOV-MC001-E1_196-293_Adapters_LR.pdf

Several times I have seen soft thin wall tubing break at the ferrule from vibration & flexing. Eaton recommends a max fluid temperature of 250F for synthetic rubber & thermoplastic elastomer hoses carrying low pressure lubricating oils and a max ambient temp. of 180F. For PTFE the max temps. are 450F fluid & 400F ambient.

The hose is 1/2" double braid hyd. hose. The block 90* fittings have 3/8" male npt. on one end and 1/2" JIC. on the other end(part # JCM06-NPM08). One end of the hose has a crimped on fitting that has a 1/2" compression fitting to go on the original 1/2" aluminum pipe that was cut below the rad (GoodYear part # B2-FTM-0808). The other end of the hose has a 1/2" JIC. female swivel that is crimped on the hose (part # B2-JCFX-0808). The total length of one hose with fittings is 42" the other is 44". I had to remove about 1/8" of material off of the filter housing edge because of interference with the hoses at the 90* fittings. All the fittings are "Goodyear", sorry I didn't do this sooner, I had forgot. Leo