Okay, we're planning on doing our first oil change this weekend. Owned it for just over 2 months and we have (I should say, I put) 5,017 miles on her. I pick up my Amsoil this Saturday morning.

In the manual it says to look for CI-4 or CH-4, does anyone know if AME is designated as one of these? Do I even need to worry about this?

I don't see anything in the manual that tells where everything is to change the oil-can someone give me the info I need to do this or point me in the direction?

First off I would get a Fumoto oil drain valve ( Part # F106-N) and install it while you have the plug out. It will prevent the oil from draining on to the skid plate and makeing a huge mess. If that is not an option then you might want to trim the aluminum skid plate around the area of the oil pan drain. Trust me it will make a mess. As far as the amsoil goes I dont know but I'm sure others will chime in soon. Yes you need to get an oil with the CI 4 and CH 4 rateings. The cheepest is probably the Rotella 15-40 (Walmart, Kragen, Autozone). Also at 5000 mi you should be changeing your spin on allison transmission filter.

Amsoil for the most part does not carry the API ratings of CI-4 or CH-4. They claim to meet the standard but do not submit to testing. I think the XL-3000? does carry the rating. Perhaps the only time you need to worry is if you have internal engine problems and the dealer wants to claim you used a non-approved oil.

Yes the user manual is a bit sparse on maintenace instructions. Fairly simple. Unscrew the plug on the bottom. Make sure your over a storm sewer so you don't make a mess in the street. If you have a skid plate the oil will run all over the plate for the last half of the drain. Now is a good time to install a fumoto valve or a Fram sure-drain. To advoid the messy skid plate use some tin foil to direct the oil into the storm drain. If you have not changed the filter, be aware that at the factory the guy the installs the filter has no neck. That sucker is on tight. A strap wrench will come in handy. After the oil is drained, and a new filter installed it is time to go top side. By the way, the torque spec on the drain plug is 62 ft-lb. Take the oil fill cap off and pour 10 quarts in. You need to run it a bit to fill the filter, and leave it sit for 5 minutes or so before you check the level.

Don't forget to grease all 11 zerks. Do a search on Zerk and you will find some pretty pictures. Good luck, it is not hard.

Jim

all I have to say is..the oil comes out FAST so be prepared so it doesn't get all over the place and you have to clean up a spill like I did.. LOL

good luck

Jholly..........I just dumped 10 qts out behind the house, I'll tell'um you said I could use the STORM DRAIN!!!!!..........Rick):h

Or better yet. Do your oil change in the WalMart parking lot. They have lots of room and your choice of sewer drains. If you need oil or tools, your just a short walk away. While your at it dump the RV Tanks just before you leave. That will help wash away any oil spills. ):h

:eek: I'm hoping J Holly was making a joke abouit the storm drain! I'm no tree hugger, but 10 qts of oil will foul a lot of water.

Amsoil markets several oils for diesels. Series 3000 comes in 5W-30 and is their best oil, rated API CI-4/CF/CF-2/SL, EO-N+83', DHD-1, ECF-1, ACEA A3/83/E3/E5, VDS-3.
Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil comes in SAE15W-40 and is rated API CI-4+CF, CF2-SL, EO-N+03', DHD-1,ECF-1, ACEA A3/B3/E3/E5, VDS-3.
Synthetic Blend Gasoline and Diesel Oil comes in SAE 15W-40 and is rated API
CI-4+/CF/CF-2/SL, EO-N+O3', DHD-1,ECF-1, ACEA A3/A3/B3/E3/E5, VD-3.
Synthetic Diesel Oil comes in SAE 30 and is rated API CI-4/CF/CF-2/SL.
I use the Series 3000 in 5W-30, it has a hot film strength that exceeds that of any dino 15W-40, and is much freer flowing in cold starts and short trips than 15W-40.
My DMax is used far more as an around town ride than as an over the road puller. And when I do tow, my TT only grosses approx 5700#:) . Had a talk with Amsol tech rep, who felt I would get better oiling with the 5W-30 under my use conditions. He said that as long as I had no excessive oil consumption or too low oil pressure at hot idle that all would be well. I have added 1 qt in 13K, and hot idle oil pressure is just under 30, so I'm happy.):h

I guess I should have explained a little better... I know how to change oil.

I really meant to ask where everything is located. I haven't had a chance to get underneath the truck and take a good look yet.

not to be a smart ass but the oil drain plug is at the bottom of the drain pan drivers rear corner. oil filter drivers side just inside the frame rail. trans filter pass side just in front of trans pan. dont forget the trans filter magnet. as far as gettign the right filters gmdieseltech.com

Do I need to change the tranny filter when I'm just changing the engine oil?

What about the magnet? Please remind me-I read it somewhere but its been awhile.

Muddywoman - As suggested, I would recommend getting a fumoto valve..It makes changing oil so much easier...Also, find a very stout filter wrench...if it's the oem oil filter, it will be extremely tight....

Not sure what the manual says, I think the first change is around 5K or so. Their cheap, transmission rebuilds aren't. I change mine on every oil change. I fill the new filter before I screw it on, don't really change the transmission level that way.

dirty old man - You need to take a trip over to eolcs.api.org and lookup amsoil. Only PCO 3000 carries the api license for CI-4. The XL-7500 series for cars carries the api license. The rest of amsoil does not carry the api license, and therefore do not meet the specification. I asked once why not. Very long answer basically said they did not agree.

Jim

J Holly, I don't want to get in a pissing match with you over semantics. I never said the oils I mentioned were api licensed, I said rated .And yes the PCO diesel blend and the XL 7500 line are the only Amsoil oils that are actually api licensed.

The rest of the Amsoil line is rated by Amsoil to meet or exceed the performance requirements of the api specs listed. Your manufacturer's warranty is protected by the Moss- Magnuson Act. Also, Amsoil has a bonded and insured warranty that offers full protection against losses due to oil related failure to the users of their oils and the extended drain intervals offered with use of Amsoil.

Incidentally, Amsoil has never, in over 30 years of the production and sales of synthetic oils, had an oil related failure.:D

The rest of the Amsoil line is not licensed under api because Amsoil and api differ on several points. Not the least of these are NOACK volatility and ZDTP, zinc dithiophosphate.

NOACK volatility is simply the volume of the oil that evaporates under controlled high temperature conditions. Amsoil limits their line of full synthetics to a range of 5-8%. API allows 15%, and naturally this introduces consumption of the additive package thru the PCV system.

This is where the ZDTP comes in. ZDTP is an anti wear comound and also inhibits oxidation and corrosion. However there is some concern in some circles that ZDTP may contribute to catalytic converter deterioation. Amsoil uses a higher amount of ZDPT than api allows, believing that the benefits outweigh the possible side effects. Amsoil also contends that the lower NOACK volatility of their oils negates and nullifies the use of higher amounts of ZDTP causing [problems with the catalytic converter. In fact, Amsoil users have reported unusually good test results on exhaust emission tests.

Sorry for the novel folks, but I feel that "The Rest of The Story" needed to be told. AS J Holly said, there is a much longer discussion of this available, both on the api site and on the Amsoil site.

Okay, picked up an engine and tranny filter for $43 and an extra used oil container. Thanks guys!

Where did you buy those filters at? I got an Allison filter for the tranny and a Baldwin oil filter for ~$15.00.

Got the tranny filter from the Allison dealer in town for just over $9.00 with tax.

HossKartrite and I split a case of Baldwin oil filters. He ordered them online, and the price with shipping came out to $5.25 per filter.

I went to local GMC dealership. Paid too much I'm sure but I didn't think too much about going to Allison or any other company.

Baldwin? Do they have a website?

Should I change my fuel filter too?

fuel filter at 10k. You need to learn how to search on the internet for filters. Baldwin are good filters. Mobil 1 303 a bit better. Wix is fine. Try a Napa store for Wix, and as they said, the Allison dealer for the Ally filters. I buy my Baldwins at the Peterbuilt dealer for very good prices. And yes, Baldwin has a site and will list dealers.

Jim

the guy on this thread are just trying to be helpful. a little humor for your day goes along way.while your down there you might as well change the trans filter . it has traped all the garbage that was floating around in the trans . its a good ideal to do so

yes the book sayto change trans filter at or around first oil change :grd: to keep warranty

Associated Diesel (http://www.adiesel.com/) has pretty competitive prices if you buy in quantites of 6. $15.44 for the tranny, $7.67 for the oil.