Looking for some advice on pulling a trailer, in regards to mileage.

I have a bone stock 2007 2500HD with the LBZ motor. Crew cab, 36,000 miles on the truck and 30k of those have been pulling our 6,000 lb rowing shell trailer. Goose Neck, heavy trailer.

Boats are 60 feet in length and do catch the wind. Cross wind makes things exciting! Most of our runs are across the country, from coast to coast, say 4-6k miles a trip. (Attached photo shows size of trailer)

With the trailer, I’m getting 8.5-9.5 mpg (Hand calculated). Being in the trailer mode for a whole trip and then one without it, = the same mileage. I avg 70 mph, ticking over right around 1900 rpm.

There are so many aftermarket parts, exhaust, computer chips and the like. I’m looking for better mileage both with and without the trailer. I don’t horse it.

Where do you start?
Which order do you do the mods? Exhaust 1st? Chip 1st?
Brands? Ideas?

I would start with exhaust so you can get the most out of your tuner. From what Iv read intakes dont do much. I did the PPE mod on my box.

I would start with exhaust so you can get the most out of your tuner. From what Iv read intakes dont do much. I did the PPE mod on my box.
X2, i dont know if a tuner will really help with the fuel milage. It didnt help alot with mine as far as towing but it did give me more power with no fuel milage loss. Empty it does make a difference, i have gotten 22mpg at 75mph with the A/C and cruise on. Before i got 20-21 under the same driving conditions.

1. Exhaust (MBRP almost everyone likes that brand)
2. Gages ( Boost, and Pyro To keep everything in check)
3. Tuner (Hypertech, Predator, or PPE For what you want to do)

Hope this helps

Like Timmy said, and remember when you do your research to try and look for towing specific tunes/modules/etc. That's your best bet to see better mileage when towing. These usually have horsepower gain ratings below 100hp.

I'm installing an aftermarket fuel tank to confuse myself into thinking I'm getting better mileage when I don't have to stop for fuel every 2-300 miles.

what do you guys recommend, exhaust then the turner or other way around? May not be able to outlay the cash for both at once.

I too am installing a 100 gal fuel tank in the bed. The small tank that comes with the truck is of no use pulling across the country. I have to stop every 200 miles or so. Trying to find some type of kit that would use quick disconnect lines so I can remove the tank when I'm not traveling, and be able to use the truck bed.

1. Exhaust (MBRP almost everyone likes that brand)
2. Gages ( Boost, and Pyro To keep everything in check)
3. Tuner (Hypertech, Predator, or PPE For what you want to do)

Hope this helps

I would go how I numbered it

I actually would say don't waste your money on mods. The load you are carrying is the issue. Do you get the same mileage as everybody else all being equal. For instance if you get nearly 17 mpg soft-footing it around town then your fine and then your towing and highway mileage would be fine too.

I noticed you said 70MPH when towing and that will cost you right there. There is this little thing called Aerodynamic HP and all the mods in the motor won't change it. Aero HP equals speed * drag coefficeint * frontal area. Although you don't have a large frontal area so to speak you likely have a heck of a lot of drag or turbulence. It takes very minimal HP to keep something moving but the difference between Aerodynamic HP at 60 and 70 is significant and I bet significant enough to get you down around 9 MPG for what I would normally say is like 13 MPG based on the weight of those boats and trailer. Get down to 65 MPH or even lower and you will go up.

So I say save your money!!! On fuel.

I've heard good thing about banks ottomind for towing that what it was designed for

i would at least get some gauges!!! monitor those egt's

I'd do an exhaust and a small tuner. Something around 40HP on a tow setting. If you only run a small tow tune, I wouldn't even bother with gauges. I'd also switch to synthetics (trans, engine oil, diff.) Run your tires at max pressure and always use the tow/haul switch.

exhaust & slow it down
55 mph = much better milage

I'd do an exhaust and a small tuner. Something around 40HP on a tow setting. If you only run a small tow tune, I wouldn't even bother with gauges. I'd also switch to synthetics (trans, engine oil, diff.) Run your tires at max pressure and always use the tow/haul switch.
x2..

maybe if you add those air deflectors on top of your cab you could get 16mpg?? :lol:

Thanks for the ideas and thoughts. all good. Not sure about the 55 mph thought, 8k mile round trip, I'd still be driving....

next question:

The small fuel tank that the factory puts into these short boxes, isn’t much account when you’re towing. 9mpg and I’m finding I’m stopping about every 200 miles or so. With 60 foot boats on the trailer, you really need a truck-stop otherwise everyday gas stations make things interesting. And it seems that truck-stops aren’t spaced every 200 miles.

Just picked up a 100 gal, transfer tank to put in the truck bed. It’s set up for a barrel pump. At best, I’d like to put an electric pump in the tank and have it hooked up to the truck, to be an extra tank. I could just flip a switch and fill up the stock tank when its low and never have to stop. The catch, I only drive across the country a couple of times a year, (when I want this big tank) the rest of the time, I want the truck bed back to be able to use it. Is their a way to set this up to remove the tank? Say with quick disconnect fuel lines? I can use the hoist in the shop to lift out the tank, but I’m not sure how I can plumb it all in? Am I crazy? I can’t seem to find anyone who will sell me in a kit the fuel lines and connectors. All worried about liability with me not putting it into one of their tanks. Any thoughts?

Is it true that these trucks don’t have a fuel pump in the tank, its mounted outside of the tank? If so could I just splice into the fuel line and run an extra hose back to this big tank in the bed?

I would go how I numbered it

Timmy,

How about a air cleaner in there?

Thanks.

Thanks for the ideas and thoughts. all good. Not sure about the 55 mph thought, 8k mile round trip, I'd still be driving....

next question:

The small fuel tank that the factory puts into these short boxes, isn’t much account when you’re towing. 9mpg and I’m finding I’m stopping about every 200 miles or so. With 60 foot boats on the trailer, you really need a truck-stop otherwise everyday gas stations make things interesting. And it seems that truck-stops aren’t spaced every 200 miles.

Just picked up a 100 gal, transfer tank to put in the truck bed. It’s set up for a barrel pump. At best, I’d like to put an electric pump in the tank and have it hooked up to the truck, to be an extra tank. I could just flip a switch and fill up the stock tank when its low and never have to stop. The catch, I only drive across the country a couple of times a year, (when I want this big tank) the rest of the time, I want the truck bed back to be able to use it. Is their a way to set this up to remove the tank? Say with quick disconnect fuel lines? I can use the hoist in the shop to lift out the tank, but I’m not sure how I can plumb it all in? Am I crazy? I can’t seem to find anyone who will sell me in a kit the fuel lines and connectors. All worried about liability with me not putting it into one of their tanks. Any thoughts?

Is it true that these trucks don’t have a fuel pump in the tank, its mounted outside of the tank? If so could I just splice into the fuel line and run an extra hose back to this big tank in the bed?
Google "diesel install kit chevy". If the tank has a drain plug, you can install it with this kit and it will gravity feed your main tank while you drive. It works great.

Google "diesel install kit chevy". If the tank has a drain plug, you can install it with this kit and it will gravity feed your main tank while you drive. It works great.
dave maybe PM him your setup from northern tool. its pretty straightforward