I blocked off my EGR valve with a metal plate in the fall. The truck runs great and it got rid of the back smoke problem I was having, however it throws the EGR code and the engine light is on. I have ignored it for the winter but I should likely get it fixed so...

Turbine Doc had suggested either replacing the ECM and programming out the EGR system or replacing the solenoids and baro. Would these throw the code with the EGR blocked but not throw the code when it was not blocked? It is frustrating because I take the plate out and the truck smokes, put the plate in and and runs good but the engine light comes on. I replaced the turbo boost solenoid and am now getting 9-10 psi boost on my gauge when putting my foot down and 4-5 cruising so I think the vacuum system is working okay.

As much as I would like to get the Max-e-tork for more power (and program out the EGR system) I am a bit worried about the life of the engine. I currently have 278km on it. What would you do???

You should leave the plate in and also block the rubber hose at the solenoid. Clear the code and see if it come back. Normally they shouldn't, but on some trucks they'll come back, especially on those with a MAF sensor equipped. On these you have to swap to an F-engine ECM or re-programmed your ECM.

I left my EGR valve installed, but removed the hose between valve and solenoid. Block the short rubber hose at the solenoid. No codes and no problems with.


Cu,
Sven

Doesn't work that way on OBD-II, the firewall baro sensor on S is also used to monitor vac flow sort of as feedback to EGR position, if you just plug it the sensor will know it's not flowing & set a code

Thanks Turbine, so I guess this begs the question should I just break down and put a new EGR valve on instead of spending the cash on a new ECM?

What do you think about a MAX-E-Tork on a truck with 278Km?

Not necessarily, I have some private thoughts on EGR :bigglasse, bettter discussed in PM meet me there ;), if engine is healthy otherwise an reflashed PCM will work just fine