I had another thread going on this that got sidetracked, and stagnet, so I am running it again.

My 95 with a 6.5 sputters when you hit the gas more than halfway...It does it more so when its cold, but does it all the time. Sometimes I step on it, and it either acts like its not getting enough gas, or I floor it, and nothing happens...it just maintains the same speed like im not even hitting the gas.

I have replaced the OPS, lift pump, fuel filter, wastegate solenoid, injectors and injector lines and no change. On the airflow side, I have a new K&N and new 4in exhaust.

If I drive like a little old lady, and baby it...its fine. I am not a little old lady, and dont drive like that. Sometimes the "check engine" light comes on when I hit the gas hard, but as soon as I back off, it goes off.

Its driving me nuts, can somone please help. I dont know if its relevant, but the gas mileage is HORRIBLE....like maybe 9-10 mpg with no load. I drive into town for some milk, and I burn a quarter tank of fuel...

I am not a mechanic....I have a 3 month old, and dont have the cash to keep pumping into this truck. Somone please help.

Did you clean the screen in the bottom of the fuel filter ? Have you checked the fuel pressure at the t-Valve ?

Steve

If the check engine light comes on sometimes - WHAT IS THE CODE ?
On a 1995 (OBD-1), you could read codes with a paper clip.

HOW TO READ CODES ! (http://www.kennedydiesel.com/readcodes.html)

Get the code and post them here.

Could be a lot of things :

OPS
Lift Pump
Accelerator Pedal
....


No codes -> only guessing



Cu,
Sven

When I changed the fuel filter, I didnt see any screen...but I did suck all the crap out of there....

I have to do the paperclip code thing to see what codes its throwing....I just found out how to do it now....I will get back in a bit

put a hose on your t-drain open it 5 turns and start the truck ...you should get a quart of fuel in about a min....if you don't then your sock in your fuel tank is plugged up

OK...just went and read the codes.....it just keeps repeating code 78 over and over...

that is if Im reading it right....7 flashes...pause 8 flashes.....longer pause....7 then 8 again.....

78 Waste gate solenoid fault

Now I replaced the small vaccum module...that black plastic thing at the end of the black and orage vac lines....is that the wastegate solenoid?

Where do I go from here?

I guess thats good that its only showing one code....

Now I replaced the small vaccum module...that black plastic thing at the end of the black and orage vac lines....is that the wastegate solenoid?

Yes.

Do you have a boost gauge?

I have an autometer boost gauge in the box I got the other day, but havent installed it yet. What is the easiest place to install it? Ive heard the pipe between the turbo and the intake. I guess I just take those 5 or 6 bolts that hold it on off...and drill and tap it, and then replace it. Is that correct?

Turning the T handle, and seeing if the truck stalls....isnt that the lift pump test? I did that, and the truck failed, so I replaced the lift pump. I should have done the test again I guess.

It does kinda seem as though my turbo isnt working, or at least not all the time....

That's where I tapped mine. I also thought I had a bad lift pump or clogged auxilary fuel filter but, thanks to TurbineDoc, realized my tank sock was plugged.

I didnt think that the sock could be plugged, only because the tank and sending unit was replaced a few moths before I got the truck....but I guess it could happen....

Im going to re-do the T handle test thing again....see what happens...if it would ever stop raining....

Is there a gasket on that intake thing? I got some gaskets with my injector install kit that looks kinda like it would fit....Im kinda scared to take that off, and not install it right....do they get torqued down?

Do you have a good vacuum supply from the vacuum pump? Put a gauge on the line coming from the pump right at where it connects to the waste gate solenoid. The colored line, I think. You should have above 20 inches. Maybe you are not getting any boost.

78 is wastegate solenoid fault.
You replaced yours already, but does it work? Can you move the wastegate arm at the turbo with the truck runnin'? Is there power at the solenoid? When your jammin' on the throttle and it seems like it's not speedin' up, is it blowin' black smoke?

New sendin' unit in the tank is good.
If the tank had crap in it and never got cleaned when the sendin' unit was replaced, that's bad. If you do the LP test again and get no or little fuel, take the fuel line off at the LP and put it in a clean pail of diesel and see if its better. If it is, you'll need to drop the tank and clean it. If you don't wanna do that, blow some compressed air back into the tank, which should blow the sock off. CAUTION:TAKE FUEL CAP OFF FIRST!!!

when the truck is off...I can move the arm...when its running I cant.

I believe the tank and the sending unit were replaced...I have to check the old bills that were in the glove box, but its a polyethelene tank thats on there now. It may not have been a direct replacement since when I fill the tank to the max, it only reads 3/4 full...and when I drive and the fuel sloshes around, the needle bounces.

If you can't move it, that means its workin'. The 78 must be from before you changed it then.

Like I said before, if the LP test results little or no fuel, take the line off and run it into a pail and check it again. At least that will help to determine if you've got a prob in the tank, or line to tank.

ok...so if the arm doesnt move when its on then the turbo is working?

Why would the SES light come on when I step on it if the code is old?

Did you erase the code? If not you can do that by disconnecting the batteries for a few minutes but an easier way is to hold the brake and accelerator pedals to the floor simultaneously when you have the paper clip in to retrieve codes. Leo

Interesting.....ive never heard that before....yeah thats a lot easier....I will do that....

No I didnt erase the codes, but would it still keep popping up if the problem was solved?

IMO you are chasing two seperate problems....

Fuel to the IP is problem number 1. Put a pressure tester in line to the IP...that is the only true way of seeing what kind of pressure your IP is seeing....

IMO you are chasing two seperate problems....

Fuel to the IP is problem number 1. Put a pressure tester in line to the IP...that is the only true way of seeing what kind of pressure your IP is seeing....

I'm with him, wastegate issues will not cause a stumble or miss of any sort as you have described.

Yer lackin fuel, at times...odd though, with a new tank, sending unit, lift pump and OPS.

Check the pressure, and check you lines from the tank right to the IP for kinks, holes, or any such.

Or, get your milk in the jetta.

when the truck is off...I can move the arm...when its running I cant.

I believe the tank and the sending unit were replaced...I have to check the old bills that were in the glove box, but its a polyethelene tank thats on there now. It may not have been a direct replacement since when I fill the tank to the max, it only reads 3/4 full...and when I drive and the fuel sloshes around, the needle bounces.

Camel413, who really helped me a lot, replaced his fuel sender and sock too. His problem was that the parts store gave him a gas fuel sender (ok except that the fuel sock won't pass enough diesel fuel) instead of a diesel one. Chris and Chickenhunter have made good suggestions.

Sock in tank cleans up pretty easy, I cleaned mine when I had "snot in stocking" as posted last year. For WG did you test the actuator on turbo, if vac from vac pump is sat. , and vac from wg solenoid is sat., possibly the diaphragm is leaking and vac is bleeding past it letting wg drift open under drive load pressures

Interesting.....ive never heard that before....yeah thats a lot easier....I will do that....

No I didnt erase the codes, but would it still keep popping up if the problem was solved?


You say the light comes on and then off again. You can't possibly be checking the light when its on with the paperclip, so what you are reading is Stored codes.

Clear it, and try again.

ok...now im really confused..

I went outside and started the truck. I popped the hood and turned that T valve, and nothing came out....and then a few seconds later the truck died.

I got back in, re-started it....it cranked for a while cause there was no fuel I assume, and it started.....I let it run for a minute and it died out on its own.....I checked to make sure that i closed the T valve all the way and restarted it. Same thing this time.

I had a friend that asked me if I bled the air out of the fuel filter when I changed it, and i said no....so I figured maybe Id check that. So with the engine running I opened the bleed valve on the top of the fuel filter....opened it a little, and nothing happened. Then I closed it, and as soon as I did, the engine died, and now doesnt want to restart. I have a brand new lift pump and ops....what the hell, why is it still failing the test?:mad:

you have a bad LP ,OPS or your sock is pulled...where did you get your LP and OPS from???....

I got the lift pump and OPS from autozone.

I just went and cleared the code 78, by pressing the brake and the gas down for a few seconds, and now that code is gone, but I am getting a code 12 that wont seem to erase. I finally got it started by cranking the hell out of it, and took it for a spin. I dont know if its just a coincidence, but no sputtering and no SES light came on. I just dont get it, is it possible that clearing a code could fix a problem? I dont see how.

is it possible that I had a big air pocket in the fuel filter housing, and by bleeding it out I released it and that was my problem? Should I do the lift pump test again?

I was just re-reading through this post, and I might be doing the lift pump test wrong. I start the engine....then turn the T valve....and then the engine dies. Am I supposed to be opening the T valve before I start the engine?

12 means no problem...and yes do the LP test agian.....i got a LP from napa and it would pump good pressure but no volume....so i got a HD LP from Heath and i get over a quart a min. and 10psi at idle.....from the t- drain

ok...I will do the test again, but am I doing it right.....opening the valve while the engine is running, and not before?

The lift pump I have is the HD one from ar earlier model....I dont remember which one, but somone recomended me to get one from like a 93 or something, its a direct swap and flows more.

I guess if I had an issue with not getting boost Id still be getting the code 78 right?

ok first off make a jumper out of a piece of wire(about 18" long) and strip both ends....find G or F on the OBI conecter and put 12+ to it and it will turn on the LP and then open your t-drain and see what you get.....this is done with the engine off

low boost not causing the problem...stick with me here!!!

yesterday I found a really great diagram that showed the ports on the OBD1 plug thing.....I cant find it now.....can somone post it...Im gonna go out and do the test now before it rains again.

put your glasses on...LOL ..the letters are on the connector


look here...http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16399

yesterday I found a really great diagram that showed the ports on the OBD1 plug thing.....I cant find it now.....can somone post it...Im gonna go out and do the test now before it rains again.

Go back to post #3 by Chevylover. Code reading link is there.
Ted

ok....you got me on that one LOL...they are marked, I just didnt see it.

OK...ran 12v to port G and the fuel came gushing out...and I mean gushing.

So now what?

leave it jumper and start it(shut the valve first)...then pull the jumper and see if it stays runnin'...if it does go and pull the power wire at the pump and see if you have power.....if you don't the check the OPS and the LP relay....

I forgot to post this earlier....I checked to see if the wastegate solenoid was getting juice, and at idle it isnt, but I can see a carrier signal of around .4 volts to the black wire.....is that normal? No one else is here to be able to press the gas so that I can check it under load. I just wanna rule it out.

the truvk was running great for two days, and today I installed a boost gauge, and when I was doing it, I lost one of the ferrules ( i think thats what you call those brass crush washer type things ) and when I test drove it, the gauge showed almost no boost...maybe 5 psi...and it started doing the same thing, not as much...but coughing, and the SES light came on. I know I have to put the ferrule in and stop the leak, but would a leak so small cause something like that, or is it a coincidence?

I know that people are going to jump on me for being an ass on this but pay close attention:

You are chasing 2 problems. The boost problem is NOT related to your stumbling problem, at all, ever....

Have you replaced the Lift Pump relay. it's like 15 bucks. had I checked it first on my truck it would have saved me from replacing the lift pump.

nope...where is the lift pump relay?

I know I am chasing two different problems....but I am trying to solve both of them......

problem 1

I think I have solved....I had a loose fitting on the hose for the boost gauge....just test drove the truck and it was fine....where is the lift pump relay....is there a way to test it?

problem 2

the gauge I installed shows 5 lbs of boost. That code 78 came up again. so I think there is still a problem with the turbo, or wastegate solenoid. Is there a way to test it?

I know I am chasing two different problems....but I am trying to solve both of them......


Good.

Now you can quit confusing the stumbling with the low boost problem.

You may want to keep this thread focused on the fuel problem (hence the title 'Fuel delivery problem' - and start a new thread for your boost problem.

You will get better help if the threads are titled appropriatley.

dezil....did you try to drive it with the jumper to LP power and see if still cuts out?

no I didnt try that, but it sounds like a good idea....my only question is if I run 12v to port G...and for argument sake the pump IS working normally will it burn it out getting juice from both sources?

no I didnt try that, but it sounds like a good idea....my only question is if I run 12v to port G...and for argument sake the pump IS working normally will it burn it out getting juice from both sources?

no...try it

OK...I jumped 12v to G....and nothing....jumped 12v to F...and I could hear the pump going....started the truck....no difference

Is the G port supposed to work as well? Does it mean something that it doesnt?

some use truck g some f...you took it for a drive and it still fallin' on it face?

It doesnt stall, it just hesitates, and lately it does it intermittantly.....but when I drove it, it didnt do it. Purging the air out of the fuel filter cannister made a HUGE difference. when I drove to lowe's today...it was fine....and then on the way home it was a little sluggish. I just dont get it.

What about the lift pump relay, is there any way to test it?

pull it out and check it with a ohm meter..

I know that people are going to jump on me for being an ass on this but pay close attention:

You are chasing 2 problems. The boost problem is NOT related to your stumbling problem, at all, ever....

X1000

I drove the truck for a good 50 miles this morning, and in 30 degree weather, it was fine. I am getting the new ferrule today, and installing it. It is still sluggish, but no stumbling, or coughing what so ever. I think for now this problem may be solved. I have opened a different thread for the other problem regarding the turbo.

....where is the lift pump relay....is there a way to test it?



It is in the box under the hood on the drivers side thats says fuses and realys on the cover (or something along those line). No way to test one but to change it. but it should only be about 15 bucks.

driving around today....truck is back to coughing and sputtering again. dammit...

driving around today....truck is back to coughing and sputtering again. dammit...

That is the way mine kept torturing me with the tank sock being plugged.

That is the way mine kept torturing me with the tank sock being plugged.

Exactly! And as I keep mentionin' Dezil, you need to verify pre LP what is goin' on.

well, you guys have never steered me wrong....so the next warm, DRY day we have, im gonna do that. I have a new lift pump, and OPS seems like its working. What the hell? cant hurt to try it....

It may be your problem, it may not be. When your troubleshootin' a problem you have to rule out certain areas before you can move on. If not it usually ends up gettin' costly changin' parts that didn't need it and also cost a lot of time.

I agree completely....and besides...Im out of money so might as well rule stuff out that I can do myself?

This may be a dumb question, but how bad of an idea is it to remove the damn sock, and install a heavy duty inline filter thats eaisier to change?

Dezil, do yourself a favor and just open the line right near the rear wheel and blow some compressed air (as light as possible) backwards through the line and see what happens. I can tell right away there was a blockage when I do it. Don't forget to remove your fuel cap first. Thanks to TurbineDoc and Camel for helping me find out that this was my problem.