There used to be on this forum a procedure for flushing your transmission where you’d remove one of the cooler lines and fill the transmission while it was pumping the old fluid out. I’ve searched and can’t find this exact procedure any longer. There is something very close relating to swapping out for the deep pan but not the same thread. Does anyone know where this thread went? I believe (although don’t quote me on this) it was one of the Hoot methods. I’ve gone as far as to check the links in Hoot’s signature which lead to another web site, and while this is a good article it’s not the one I found previously (about 6 months ago) which I used to flush the tranny on my fathers truck.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1070

Ratlover,
Thanks for checking, but that's the same one I found. I know there was a more in-depth (or was) thread on flushing the tranny. In fact I think that link is part of the thread I'm referring to. If you look at the directions it states:

Tools Needed:

1. Two feet of 5/8 heater hose
2. 13mm & 15mm socket, and 3/8 ratchet or equivalent
3. Torque wrench- 3/8”
4. Empty three gallon containers—2 ea
5. Safety Glasses
6. Plenty of rags
7. Very small screwdriver

Now if you read through the entire post it doesn’t mention using the two feet of heater hose, nor does it mention using the empty three gallon containers??? Wierd huh? Does anyone know if the original post was modified and re-posted? I remember part of the post I’m referring to having you measure and mark quarts on the side of a 5gal container to measure the fluid coming out of the tranny. In fact I'm bettin if SparkyTX is still around he may remember what I'm talking about because it looks as if he performed the same procedure I did. Am I just blind and can’t find this or am I smoking something real good:confused:

Thanks all

I felt the instructions on the listed thread was incomplete also. Anyone care to help with the complete instructions?

I think Hoot posted it once. Not sure though.

Looks like hoot got the boot. I have searched every way I can think of and can't get the complete instructions. Can any of you vendors help out?

Found it in a hoot post on the 2500 & 3500 HD forum under 'Allison flush'. You have to look in Hoots sig for the information.

I recently searched for an unrelated Post and couldn't find it either. I was told that when the recent changes were made to the forum, that the posts were re-numbered, but could still be found through the search feature. I found the one I was looking for, but it too looked like some of it was missing. I wrote it off as "faulty memory" on my part.

http://www.getdieselpower.com/my01dmax/

Hoot's X Duramax site. Go over there and take what you can you have my permission,he don't need it,he's slumming. Censored :D :p Censored


Thats right...That's right

Take a look at that sig,right down there,Hoot,That's "Ride'n" :D

I’ve found it! The full directions which tell you why you need two feet of heater hose, the empty containers, etc. I knew I had printed the directions out when I performed this service on my father’s 04.5LLY, I just put them in a place I wouldn't loose them (which of course means a place I would almost certainly not find them):D

The procedure described is more than just replacing the fluid in the pan, it describes pumping the old fluid out of the converter, lines and cooler as well. I can (if the moderators will allow) re-post the information if anyone would like.

I would sure like those instructions also ,Thanks ahead of time

I'd like to see them too. Thanks

Is it just me or was no one able to log in this weekend? Hmm must have been that 4" exhaust I installed ):h I'll get that procedure copied up here soon, lotsa typing.

Here's the article as promised, a few things to note:
1. the black text below was copied from the do it yourself article on this forum.
2. the blue text I copied from the origional article I printed, I did an exact copy minus embedded pictures (sorry)
3. READ THE ENTIRE PROCEDURE BEFORE YOU BEGIN, it's important to note you need to drain the tranny and measure the ammount you drain out!
4. I performed this procedure on my father's 04.5 and my 05 without issue, the only change I made is I used a 5 gallon bucket vs. the 1 gallon containers, I simply marked the side of the 5 gallon bucket at 1 quart i.e. I poured a quart of fluid in the bucked, marked it, added another quart marked it, then measured the difference and repeated this measurement up the side of the bucket.
5. again READ THE ENTIRE PROCEDURE BEFORE YOU BEGIN!!!
6. ok off my soapbox now ):h read and enjoy.
___________________
Thanks to steeltech for contributing this article.

Allison Deep Pan/TranSynd Synthetic Fluid Replacement Procedure

Here are the standard and deep pans, side-by-side..



Notes

Cleanliness is extremely important.

If the o-ring stays in the bore when changing the suction filter—don’t jam a screwdriver
up the hole to retrieve it. Use some finesse and it will come.

The assumption is that the transmission was at the correct level before beginning this procedure.

Wearing safety glasses is a good idea—the fluid really stings in your eyes.

Previous posts indicate: Stock shallow pan capacity-7.4 qts when drained.
Large pan capacity-7.4 qts. + 3.2 qts.=10.6 qts.
Total capacity-(dry system) shallow pan=12.7 qts.
Total capacity-(dry system) deep pan=15.9 qts.

When I drained I measured approximately 8.2 quarts (including residual fluid in factory pan,
oil out of spin on filter, and oil that ran out when pulling suction filter and disconnecting transmission line.


Parts Needed:

• Pan #29536522
• Suction Filter# 29537966
• Transynd fluid #27101-four to five gallons
• Transynd dipstick label #00SA3316EN
• Spin-on filter-#29539579

Tools Needed:

1. Two feet of 5/8 heater hose
2. 13mm & 15mm socket, and 3/8 ratchet or equivalent
3. Torque wrench- 3/8”
4. Empty three gallon containers—2 ea
5. Safety Glasses
6. Plenty of rags
7. Very small screwdriver



Procedure:

Drain pan. Would not recommend doing this with hot oil. Keep track of how much oil you drain in this pan.


Reinstall plug in pan finger tight and remove 12 bolts.

After dropping pan, inspect gasket and set aside for re-use if O.K.

Remove suction filter with o-ring. More oil will come out when you pull the suction filter.

The “O-ring” is not the traditional o-ring but instead an orange colored very thick ring.
If the ring stays in place when pulling the old suction filter off, just wipe clean, reinsert in
hole and cock the filter a little sideways while removing.
The o-ring should come out with the filter.

Remove and replace spin on filter—prime if you like.
Don’t forget to transfer magnet from old to new filter, wipe magnet clean before
installing in new filter.


Install new suction filter, don’t forget the o-ring.

Install new pan with gasket.
Torque pan bolts to 20 foot pounds.

Install drain plug and tighten to 25 foot pounds.

Pour approximately 11 quarts of oil in transmission.

Disconnect upper line from trans cooler at the transmission.
These lines are on the passenger side of the transmission, near the torque converter.
The lines are also identified on the side of the transmission

Quote from Hoot: “In case you haven’t seen the Jiffy-Tite style connector before: Slide back the plastic cover over the c-clip-shaped spring, then use a small screwdriver to pop the spring out of it’s groove. KEEP A FINGER ON THE SPRING AS YOU DO THIS, because those springs love to go flying off into some dark hole where you’ll never find it. Once the spring is out, just pull and wiggle on the line until it comes out of the fitting. As soon as you have the line out you can put the spring back into its groove so you don’t lose it-the line will snap right back into place when you’re done, even with the spring there. Be careful not to damage the o-rings when re-installing.”

Attach the two foot hose to the line you just unhooked and run into your other container. Make sure to push the hose on far enough to go past the ridge in the line. Have one person hold the hose while another starts the truck (unless you have remote) and a third person pour oil in the filler tube.

Turn the truck on and off until you run about one and a half gallons out of the line.

You will have empty transynd containers (if you bought the one gallon size) that you can set inside of your second container, which you can run the hose directly into to measure your progress. Be careful the oil comes out pretty fast.

At this point check how much oil you drained initially and how much you drained in the flush. Subtract how much you drained from how much you added and shoot for a difference of 3.2 quarts. In other words you want 3.2 quarts more in the transmission then you drained out. If you have too much in the transmission run a little more out of the cooler line.

Once you are satisfied the oil level is close, reconnect the cooler line and make sure the line is firmly attached.

You should have the c-clip back in its original position before reconnecting the line.

When reconnecting the line it will “click” in position and may squirt you in the face with a touch of oil.

Start truck and look for leaks, then run the transmission through the gears a few times.

Put truck back in park and check level with dipstick. Should be full cold-if not add fluid.

Drive the truck enough to get the transmission warmed up and then check again-should be to full hot mark.

Thanks for the post. Very complete and informative. I feel like I could do this no problem and I'm a diesel dud.

Thanks very much for taking the time to respond to the requests. (My truck will thank you too!!)

No problem at all, I'm happy to help out the community where I can.

Heck I'm just glad I printed them so I could do this in the first place, I've been hot roddin gassers for a while but I'll admit when you crack a line or drill a hole on a $40k vehicle it will increase your pucker factor :eek:

BTY Reading through tranny fluid stained paper to re-post this was fun ):h

I did the flush yesterday. Must say if you follow the instructions exactly, you will be amazed how easy it is. VERY important to measure EXACT total fluids in and out. If you do this then you should have no trouble getting close to the right volume in the tranny. I used old 5 qt Mobil 1 oil containers at the end of the 2' hose with every quart marked on the bottle. this way when the wife started the truck I knew how much came out. It comes out fast! I kept a running log of every quart I drained and every quart I added. I flushed a bit more than needed. I used a total of 4.25 gallons of transynd.

Be sure to include ALL fluid drained including the fluid from the filters, etc... I put my 5 qt containers on top of my oil pan. This way I did not loose any fluid. I had my truck up on ramps. This made access excellent, and I drained 9 quarts out of the drain plug, maybe because of the angle the truck was at. I liked the 1 gallon containers, they made it pretty easy to poor fluid into the fill tube. A good funnel is key. I wrapped the fill tube with a big towel before I started to save spill mess.

I was AMAZED at how CLEAN my old fluid looked at 38k miles! Looked crystal clear! I have 2 very powerful rare earth magnets on my external filter. Maybe this is why it looked so clean. I also noticed Allison uses a square magnet "patch" in the bottom of the pan. Magnets EVERYWHERE! SPICER

I replaced the fluid with Chevron Dexron III at 25.000 miles. At my next change at 50.000 miles will be using the TranSynd fluid and a deep pan kit.
Mark

Here's the article as promised..........

Allison Deep Pan/TranSynd Synthetic Fluid Replacement Procedure

Drain pan................

Install new pan with gasket
Torque pan bolts to 20 foot pounds.

When reviewing the transmission flush procedure that Enigma was kind enough to recreate, I noticed the torque spec say 20 foot pounds for the pan bolts.

However, the Transgo Allison manual that MikeL made available last summer has the following information on page 6:

"Torque pan bolts to 7 - 10 lb.ft."

That's quite a difference between specs. Does anyone know the "correct" torque number?

Thanks.

Follow Transgo instructions, they are real world specs I use. 20 ft lb is way too tight for a pan bolt.
mike

Got under there yesterday to take a look, and not wanting to force or break anything, I grabbed the plastic cap on the line and wasn't sure if I pushed it toward the tranny or away from the tranny to get to the spring clip?

Filters are in the mail, so need to have this point clarified. thanks

Please try to repost as it is time for me to do my 03. :)

Got under there yesterday to take a look, and not wanting to force or break anything, I grabbed the plastic cap on the line and wasn't sure if I pushed it toward the tranny or away from the tranny to get to the spring clip?

Filters are in the mail, so need to have this point clarified. thanksIf the cap you are referring to is the one I’m thinking of (will expose the spring clip) you will need to pull that away from the tranny, it’ll slide down the cooler line which will allow you access to the spring clip. And watch out them puppies are REALLY spring loaded and will shoot off into the great unknown if you don’t keep hold of em.

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Ahh the meaning of a picture is worth a thousand words eh? ):h

Did the flush yesterday (4/16/05) found a little problem. Have a MBRP front pipe on and found that the cooler line would not pull out of trans unless pipe was pushed out of way. It's a little more work, but doable. Strarted the truck up without muffler connected and surprised how quiet it was (compared to a gas motor). those guys running straight exhaust can live with the noise, may try. Have fun.

The turbo really muffles the exhaust sound. That why you can put an STS turbo on a gasser in place of the muffler and you don't need the muffler.

DEWFPO