I have a buddy who drives a Dodge...he and I have been talking about bypass filters for a while....I saw a few posts on here about these type filters...haven't seen anything recently and didn't know if anyone was interested or anyone had any input on this. Perhaps just a discussion... (by the way, I tried to talk him out of the Dodge. Not everyone is perfect :cool:)

Neat idea, almost seems like the added potential for failure would outweigh any benefits though.

Anyone have any real world experience with these?

Did some reading....Million mile warranty, cleans down to one micron, it's cleanable (no throw-away filters)....Something to think about. I'm going to end up talking myself into one of these.....

Where did you find a dealer/distrubutor? I googled it to see how expensive it is and didn't come up with anything.

I just remembered where else I saw somthing like this, a company called diesel craft makes somthing very similar and has a kit made for the duramax, it replaces the oil filler tube and sits on top.
Jesse

Weird. I want more info! :D

The info doesn't show how they make the bowl actually spin, and it doesn't explain how they come up with the relation between oil pressure and flow used in the diagram. When used as a bypass filter, how do you know if it ever gets sufficient oil pressure and flow to work?

Now I got something going! Lots of great questions too! Here is what I know.
1. The Spinner II can be made to mount on top of your oil fill tube. It requires at least a 1" drain for adaquite flow. As for the pressure, it is equipped with a pressure sensative valve (ball and spring) that won't allow it to work under 20psi.

2. How it works: the unit has two jets mounted in the housing. Oil pressure causes it to spin which flings oil on the housing. this collects the nasties and lets clean oil flow down and back into the engine.

3. Vendors? Well....just so happens where I work...we sell 'em. I don't know how much to the public....but I would guess somewhere around $250.00. Keep in mind that this has no serviceable filters. Depending on use, about once a year, you take it apart and clean it. So you don't have to go buy filters.... etc. I don't think it uses too much oil either. From what I saw, it plumbs in just below the power steering pump and the line is run to the unit mounted on top of the oil fill tube....

I have seen a picture of the install....I'll look for it...

http://www.oil-tech.com/spinttl2.jpg Model 25 0.9 GPM at 60 PSI
Installation and
Service Instructions http://www.oil-tech.com/mod25cut.jpg OIL SUPPLY TO CENTRIFUGE Oil supply should, in general, be taken from the highest pressure, hottest source available on the dirty side of the full-flow oil filter. A 3/8" pipe (or #6 hose) supply line should be used. Preferred pressure is 60 to 80 psig but the Spinner II centrifuge will operate efficiently at 25 to 90 psig. CLEAN OIL RETURN TO SUMP Gravity Drain. The Spinner II centrifuge must be close-coupled to the sump with an unrestricted 1" ID (or #20 hose) drain returning above the normal sump oil level. The drain line must be sloped downward from the centrifuge outlet and be free of sharp bends or traps. On many engines, an access plate can be modified to provide a suitable drain opening as well as sturdy mechanical support. Be sure the sump side of the drain opening is clear and that the drain oil does not impinge on moving parts of the engine. Refer to drawing below for proper line sizing and routing. http://www.oil-tech.com/a1-4154.jpg MECHANICAL CONSIDERATIONS Spinner II centrifuges are high-speed devices and should be securely mounted to prevent excessive vibration. Operation up to 15 degrees from vertical is permitted. http://www.oil-tech.com/md25dem.gif MODEL 25 SERVICE INSTRUCTIONS 1. Shut off oil supply (or stop engine) and allow centrifuge turbine assembly to come to a complete stop.

2. Unscrew cover nut and remove cover assembly.

3. Partially withdraw centrifuge turbine assembly from the housing and allow oil to drain from nozzles before removing completely. Hold the assembly in one hand and remove bowl nut. Carefully separate centrifuge bowl from turbine. Remove stand tube.

4. Carefully remove sludge from centrifuge bowl using a wooden spatula or other non-damaging tool.

5. Wipe out bowl with solvent and wash stand tube and other parts.

6. Clean turbine and examine top and bottom bearings for excessive wear. Check turbine nozzles to ensure free passage of oil. Replace centrifuge bowl seal.

7. Seat stand tube in turbine, replace bowl and reassemble centrifuge, tightening the bowl nut securely by hand and making sure that the bowl seal is uniformly seated all around.

8. Examine spindle journals for damage or excessive wear. Replace base assembly if journals are damaged. Spindle is pressed into base and aligned at the factory and cannot be properly serviced in the field.

9. Replace centrifuge turbine assembly on spindle, being careful of bushings. Be sure it rotates freely.

10. Clean and inspect cover, paying special attention to cover nut assembly. The seal should be replaced if it shows signs of leaking.

11. Examine the base-to-cover seal and replace if damaged.

12. Replace cover assembly and tighten cover nut securely using small end wrench. Make sure that cover seats on base assembly evenly all around so that cover seal is properly compressed. Check all centrifuge mounting bolts for proper tightness.

13. Open oil supply to centrifuge. With engine running, check all connections and joints for leaks. Repeat assembly if vibration is excessive.

http://www.oil-tech.com/gm_duramax_spinner1.jpg
SPINNER II, Model 25 GM Duromax installation
The installation
- Overview
The Duromax diesel in the GM pickup installation of the Model 25 Spinner II centrifuge is a slick looking and performing installation



http://www.oil-tech.com/gm_duramax_spii_close_up_return.jpg http://www.oil-tech.com/gm_duramax_supply.jpg - Oil Supply & Return The oil supply is taken from the oil pressure sender port located under the power steering pump on the left front side of the block. Use a hydraulic grade single braid 3/8" ID hose for the oil supply to the Model 25 Spinner. The existing sender is removed and a tee installed with the sender being re-installed into the tee. The oil supply line in this example is run along side the driver's side of the block and up where you can see an inline tee with a ball valve is installed for oil sampling duties.

The oil return for this installation is incorporated in the mount for the Spinner. The oil filler tube has been replaced with a local muffler shop mandrel bent piece of pipe with a piece of 1/4" plate welded onto the top, drilled with 4 mounting holes and a 1" center hole to form the flange for the Spinner to mount.
The generic Model 25 installation guide (http://www.oil-tech.com/md25nstl.htm) indicates a 22mm , (7/8") inside diameter is the minimum fitting size on the engine's block needed to insure the oil exiting the Spinner doesn't back up the return oil hose into the centrifuge, contacting the turbine and dragging the rotating rpm down severly with resultant loss of centrifugal force and oil cleaning ability. This event is termed "flooding" and a successful installation will never do this. Using the oil filter tube is a great installation idea provided you don't mind unscrewing the Model 25's cover to add engine oil. With a bit more work a fill tube can be made from a 'Y' pipe, one side for the Spinner, the other for the filler.
These instructions are guidelines, use your own good judgement in your particular installation.


http://www.oil-tech.com/gm_duramax_sample_port.jpgThe Results <LI type=disc>You'll be amazed at the amount of wear causing debris the Model 25 catches.
<LI type=disc>Remember, this debris past straight thru the existing full flow oil filter before it was caught by the centrifuge.

Using Amsoil's Extended Drain 15w-40 diesel engine oil and this Spinner combined with oil analysis will deliver MAJOR extended oil drain intervals and as our field testing has proven, HUGE savings to your bottom line.

How so? Well, for one, your truck and driver, continue to do useful work month after month instead of costing you money waiting in some lineup for monthly oil changes!

That's really cool. Great idea, wonder if it actually works. And thank you, bzduramax, for all the great legwork!!

Not all my leg work....I have been searching for a while about these...I see a few other guys have mentioned this before.. (didn't see it before I posted originally).... Looks to me like it does work. We have trucks in here (Semi trucks) that have this style filter and it does work. I can see pro's and con's to all filters.....but one thing is for sure...something is ALWAYS better than nothing! Anyone else have any idea's or input?

Are these made by the same guy who makes the Tornado or the fuel magnet? :p:

I'll pass....... :)

Its funny you say that Tom, but this isn't by any means a new technology. I see you do have the amsoil setup. I can't say I haven't thought about a system like that, but figured this would be an interesting topic to discuss. Keep in mind that the amsoil system is set to go down to like 2 microns, the spinner will go down to a few tenth's of a micron. Again just a topic for discussion. But like I stated before, something is better than nothing. I like the little maintenance that these require....and have seen some positive feedback.......

I have a problem accepting 'positive feedback' as I have seen that type of feedback on the two worthless items mentioned in my post. I would be fr more interested in testing from an independent source.

Particulate matter will settle, given a chance, and I'm betting you will find some in the bottom of this apparatus, but I'm not willing to accept that it will out perform a good filtration system and I am concerned that the matter contained in it will remain so, and not be 'sucked' back up during operation.

Here is a followup....read this:

:whip:Well....let's swing her back to the top.... I see lots a lookers....anyone else wanna chime in?

I just want to know the price and where to get one the quickest.:D

The pics of the sludge are pretty convincing. I have used a home built centrifuge made from a cream separator to clean up vegetable oil and home brew biodiesel and my experiences have been that a centrifuge will take stuff out that a filter won't. I have been looking for something like this.
Where is the best place to get one? There are several different kinds, which one works the best? Please, tell me more!

I'll bite.....the centrifuge bypass is another bypass filter setup that removes some of the smaller micron particles in oil.

I've seen a particle count on TDR on the particular Spinner model above on a Cummins 24 valve and the filtering ability for a bypass filter was fair at best.

With that said, you also have to question if the person took the sample properly? Did he take two wash samples first, then keep the third? Who knows? All I can go on is what the particle count results were, and they weren't that great.

IMO, there are much simpler designed bypass filters out there that will do a better job and are less 'involved'.

I think what I hate the most about all of this is lack of hard data. Also like posted by Arkapigdiesel, who and how the sample was taken. I need to see about contacting Spinner and see if they have an actual side by side with a bypass filter element. I like the idea of the spinner, but am also pressed on the idea of a filter being a better way to filter. BUT on the other hand, I like the servicability of a centrifugal style filter. Anyway, I'll keep researching and see what I can see. Just as another bit of info, my buddy found that Cummins actually makes a bypass setup similar to the Spinner. The setup that Cummins has, has a small paper filter for the "stuffs" to stick to. Something else to think about. (I'd never put something that says "Cummins" that close to my Dmax, she's too used to see'n them behind us! LOL)

looks cool to me

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=368040