Check this out www.suspensionmaxx.com/ (http://www.suspensionmaxx.com/)

No more "what key do I use"... Its an adjustable key that fits almost everything... The best thing I have seen for the chevy IFS in a long time! It will lift trucks to whatever you want... within reason... SWEET!:ro)

From thier page:
<TABLE height=1 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="90%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width="100%">Our adjustable torsion bar levers / keys are designed to restore suspension travel on full sized Chevy and GMC 2WD and 4x4 trucks. Giving you the ability to adjust suspension clearance as needed to compensate for torsion bar fatigue or sag. More information is available in our technical section (http://www.suspensionmaxx.com/tech.htm). The Series 2 adjustable torsion bar lever is manufactured to fit these vehicles:


</TD></TR><TR><TD align=middle width="100%" height=50><TABLE borderColor=#c0c0c0 height=50 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=1><TBODY><TR><TD align=middle width="25%" height=50>Avalanche (http://www.suspensionmaxx.com/vavalanche.htm)</TD><TD align=middle width="25%" colSpan=2 height=50>Sierra (http://www.suspensionmaxx.com/vsierra.htm)</TD><TD align=middle width="25%" colSpan=2 height=50>Silverado (http://www.suspensionmaxx.com/vsilverado.htm)</TD><TD align=middle width="25%" height=50>Suburban (http://www.suspensionmaxx.com/vsuburban.htm)</TD></TR><TR><TD align=middle width="25%" height=50>Tahoe (http://www.suspensionmaxx.com/vtahoe.htm)</TD><TD align=middle width="25%" colSpan=2 height=50>Tahoe XL (http://www.suspensionmaxx.com/vtahoexl.htm)</TD><TD align=middle width="25%" colSpan=2 height=50>Yukon (http://www.suspensionmaxx.com/vyukon.htm)</TD><TD align=middle width="25%" height=50>Yukon XL (http://www.suspensionmaxx.com/vyukonxl.htm)</TD></TR><TR><TD align=middle width="34%" colSpan=2 height=50>Hummer (http://www.suspensionmaxx.com/vhummer.htm)</TD><TD align=middle width="33%" colSpan=2 height=50>Escalade (http://www.suspensionmaxx.com/vescalade.htm)</TD><TD align=middle width="33%" colSpan=2 height=50>Denali (http://www.suspensionmaxx.com/vdenali.htm)</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Cool,,, the question is, when are you going to buy me a set.):h

How does this differ from green keys?
Is it possible to use this for more lift than what is available through green keys(without bad suspension geometry angles) ?
and what is the spacer they sell used for?

Sounds good though....

its like a combination fo green keys, purple, blue, red......

???? so does that mean they work better than green keys? ARe they a better alternative in regards to minimizing unneccessary wear and tear?

All they do is allow different indexing with one key. They are adjustable. They will not be any better as far as wear and tear. They just give you the option to change beyond the capability of your current keys without having to buy more then one set of keys.

This picture should make it easy to understand.

http://www.suspensionmaxx.com/Maxxcam2004.jpg

Looks like they could strip out real easy.

I like the before and after shots. Why don't they show the control arms pointing to China in the after shot?

I put spacers on top of my coils on my Dodge. Freind told me it was a poor mans lift. With the issues I had, he was right... so I went with a real engineered solution.

The keys are a poor mans lift. No matter how you slice it. I would use the max the stock adjusting screws with the stock keys. If I wanted to go higher I would go to a well made suspension lift... probably 4". That way you put the control arms back to horizontal like stock. Less problems with CV joints, harsh ride and strange looking suspension angles. :D

Behold, the uni-key

& you all thought it was confusing before?

OK this is a cool idea but how often do we all change the t-bar settings that would require us to buy indexed keys? I'd personally rather buy multiple sets that are solid. This looks like the reduced amount of solid metal between the t-bar and the sidewalls of the key might develop stress fractures. What about the rest of you guys?

I like the before and after shots. Why don't they show the control arms pointing to China in the after shot?

The keys are a poor mans lift. No matter how you slice it. I would use the max the stock adjusting screws with the stock keys. If I wanted to go higher I would go to a well made suspension lift... probably 4". That way you put the control arms back to horizontal like stock. Less problems with CV joints, harsh ride and strange looking suspension angles. :D

I can remember reading about people putting hummer tires on thier GMC and saying the control arms were ok.... Only until dodge comes into the picture is it wrong?

Really, the way these go together, there is no slop at all.. The best part is you have multiple keys, an no need to guess with your application. I don't think this is a 3 or 4 inch lift, but a leveling kit, or a kit to help with additional weight on the front (plow, winch, ect)... It simply allows for more adjustment. I would think GM would be doing this instead of having a multitude of keys for each vehicle... They fit all the full size vehicles...:ro)

I guess I'm just skeptical. Sounds kinda like an advertisement to me:confused::rolleyes:

John

I guess I'm just skeptical. Sounds kinda like an advertisement to me:confused::rolleyes:

John
Im not advertiseing....I just bought a set for the wifes z71 tahoe... and thought they were great because I did not have to figure out what key to buy.... Thought you guys would want to know....:ro)

I can remember reading about people putting hummer tires on thier GMC and saying the control arms were ok.... Only until dodge comes into the picture is it wrong?


Yea the control arms are ok on the GMC. I didn't need any keys to raise it. The adjustment on the stock keys was plenty. Any more raising causes the a-arms to angle down farther than I preferred. I seen a few HD's coming down the raod head on with the front end jacked way up, probably keys. Looks stupid with the control arms angled down and the track width all sucked in.

I second hoot on the po' man's lift. One of the reason's that the ride suffers with t-bar cranking is due to lower a-arm angle change. Think about this. When the lower a-arm is horizontal, almost all of the force from the weight of the vehicle gets loaded onto the t-bar. With the lower a-arms vertical, all of the load would be on the bolts that hold the arms in. Now obviously you aren't going that high, for many reasons. However the concept still applies. The more you move the a-arm below the horizontal, the less the force that gets loaded onto the t-bars. This translates into not having enough weight to soften them up, e.g. harder ride. I've personally stayed away from t-bar cranking because I'm afraid of developing problems in the upper ball joints.

Just my $0.02.

For $180 bucks? That's expensive -- I think I'll stick with the green keys...