Okay, now I am really stumped!

The 96 has been cutting out irradically just like a PMD stall. No SES light. Just BAM dead. Usually this occurs when idling/coasting. General low RPM stuff.

To get it back started, I usually have to wait a few minutes for the glow plug solenoid to kick back in and get the fuel pump spinning.

Right now I have a new OPS in (on Sunday), and a Heath PMD kit. So I doubt these are the issue.

The only thing odd is that something will "click" under the hood and she will start right up, which I think is the Glow Plug controller.

I am completely stumped. Could there be something with the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid? Also I have considered the grounding eye for the PMD on the pump, but it seems snug to the finger.

Help!!!

check the shutdown solenoid on top of the IP itself, if the power is interrupted, or a bad coil, or poor gnd that solenoid could be closing intermittently same reaction as switching off ignition key

Verify that your lift pump is running and change your filter. You can get a bad tank of fuel at anytime.

Pillow,
Have you checked the fuses under the hood, spades clean?

Turbine Doc, can you please ellaborate on the "coil" you are referring to? I am a little lost on that. And I think the solenoid you are reffering to is what I am calling the fuel shutoff solenoid.

Corolla, the truck is very clean overall so I doubt an issue. But I will be sure to check and make sure. Maybe a good excuse to dab some dielectric on there anyway.

Thanks!

yes silver thing on top of IP hex head, has a coil in it that pulls up a spring loaded plunger, shutting off fuel,

if not getting power or the coil in it is bad it won't open,

remember don1969stang about a year ago he had intermittent voltage to his and it was tripping him off line.

it can be gutted for temporary as FSD loses power with key off will shut down the truck by itself, shutdown soleniod is primary shut off though with FSD/PMD de-energizing; fuel solenoid at head of IP doesn't get command either

i had the exact same issue, now get this : cables on the battery posts were not quite 100% torqued down, torqued them and since then (2 weeks) no problems !

Did not want to post this earlier so I would not jinx it :-)

( wish me luck on the way to work tomorrow :-) )

The only thing odd is that something will "click" under the hood and she will start right up, which I think is the Glow Plug controller.
Help!!!

On a warm engine, glowplugs aren't doing anything.
Check all the battery connections, and all the grounds on the block
and firewall - just pulling on them and looking at them is not enough,
could be corroded but not visible unless you pull it apart

Pillow,
Have you checked the fuses under the hood, spades clean?



good thinking.

also check for power to ecm1 fuse when this happens. If no power, then the ignition switch is most likely faulty. If there's power to ecm fuse, then it's either a bad ground connection, or a problem with the ecm (rare).

think of the WTS light as an indicator that you've got power going to the ECM. No WTS light= no power going to the brain (or no ground connection)= no go.

check the shutdown solenoid on top of the IP itself, if the power is interrupted, or a bad coil, or poor gnd that solenoid could be closing intermittently same reaction as switching off ignition key

This sounds like what is going on with our 1995 Suburban. It's been dieing very intermittently.
I replaced the PMD for lack of time to do any checking and because with the number of 6.5's I have I wanted a spare.

Update:

Stalled Monday morning and I proceeded to open the hood and check every fuse and relay in the underhood fuse box. Well something worked (so far) as I have not stalled since.

I suspect one of the ECM fuses was loose or not making a good contact and when I reset them it fixed the issue.

Again it is just a theory at the moment, but so far so good!

dirty blades on the ecm fuses did this to me once. It's worth a couple minutes of quality time with some sandpaper to take the oxidation off the blades.

Okay, I was wrong... It still stalls. The fuses and relays are fine. Which is logical since at least mine were very clean when I took them out, go green corrosion and stuff.

More updates later.

Pillow, have you run a temporary, or permanent, fuel pressure gauge to see if you had vacuum when you stalled?

Pillow, have you run a temporary, or permanent, fuel pressure gauge to see if you had vacuum when you stalled?

What is the significance of of this question? Please explain. I'm still trying to figure out my 96 burb. It dies sporadically. At least once every 2 weeks.
It has no Wait to start light when it dies. If you hit the key enough times sometimes once the WTS light will come on and it will start immediately. No light no start.

I had an F450 that would do the same thing. EXACT same thing. No wait to start light...turn the key on and off a bunch of times until it clicked and the light came on. You could crank all day long if the click didn't happen, and it would stall running down the road...had to do the whole process all over again. Never did find out what it was. Sorry, I'm no help here, just sparked an awful memory.

I had an F450 that would do the same thing. EXACT same thing. No wait to start light...turn the key on and off a bunch of times until it clicked and the light came on. You could crank all day long if the click didn't happen, and it would stall running down the road...had to do the whole process all over again. Never did find out what it was. Sorry, I'm no help here, just sparked an awful memory.

What stuff did you try to fix the issue?

What is the significance of of this question? Please explain. I'm still trying to figure out my 96 burb. It dies sporadically. At least once every 2 weeks.
It has no Wait to start light when it dies. If you hit the key enough times sometimes once the WTS light will come on and it will start immediately. No light no start.

Sound EXACTLY like mine did when i needed a new Iginition switch.

Sound EXACTLY like mine did when i needed a new Iginition switch.

Did yours die randomly like that and have no wait to start light? I would like to match up symptoms. Right now I'm leaning towards the ECM but if yours was the ignition switch doing the same thing that might be a good place for me to start.

Did Yours crank with no wait to start light? No codes? When mine dies it does not have WTS light. If you hit the key enough times the light will come on and it will start immediately.
I guess I didn't know the ignition switch would randomly kill the engine. It's one of the things I've been tossing around in my head. If it'd quit and not restart the problem would be easier to pinpoint.
Anybody else that would like to chime in is more than welcome.
Thanks

Did yours die randomly like that and have no wait to start light? I would like to match up symptoms. Right now I'm leaning towards the ECM but if yours was the ignition switch doing the same thing that might be a good place for me to start.

Did Yours crank with no wait to start light? No codes? When mine dies it does not have WTS light. If you hit the key enough times the light will come on and it will start immediately.
I guess I didn't know the ignition switch would randomly kill the engine. It's one of the things I've been tossing around in my head. If it'd quit and not restart the problem would be easier to pinpoint.
Anybody else that would like to chime in is more than welcome.
Thanks

Yes it did, I can remember sitting there cycling on and aoff, on and off, on and off, on and off, until, BAM, Dash lights, fire right up.

Yep it would defanately crank but no start. It would also stall. But not nearly as often as it did when my PMD problems began. At first i was confident that as long as i didn't turn it off i would be fine. But as everything else electronic that also experiences physical wear, it got worse. (My headlight switch comes to mind).

Now I am pretty sure its not a slider type switch like ford has, but it defanatly makes a connection when truck is in ON position. When you go past on to CRANK, it runs the starter, (ON connection should still be made), if so truck starts.

Now if ON connection is worn out, Key looks like ON, but no connection. Pushing farther to CRANK position, it runs the starter, but still no ON connection, truck doesn't start.

Cycling the key rubs the connectors back and forth, back and forth, back and forth, until one magic time it connects and BAM, startrs up.

This additional wear only accelerates an already worn problem, and to me it makes complete sense that if the ON position stops making contact while driving down the road, the truck basically thinks you turned the key off, causing stall, with no SES light.

Unfortunately I don't remember this being a cheap part, but for stuff like this I always go to ACDelco. Chinese switches just seem to be garbage.

Ac delco is the only way to go for those parts. I agree 100%.

Did you have the same issue with the WTS light?

I have all my other dash lights but no WTS light.

check the shutdown solenoid on top of the IP itself, if the power is interrupted, or a bad coil, or poor gnd that solenoid could be closing intermittently same reaction as switching off ignition key

Would this cause the WTS light to not come on?

My Suburban is a 96 not 95 that I posted earlier in this thread.

Ac delco is the only way to go for those parts. I agree 100%.

Did you have the same issue with the WTS light?

I have all my other dash lights but no WTS light.

I DEFANATLY had the WTS light issue.

I even can remember watching my fuel guage check back and forth with contact waiting for the WTS light to pop on for a confident key cranking start.

I DON"T remember about the other lights other than it set no code.

Dive into the the ol' search archives and see what other threads have indicated about ignition swtich problems. I always find it easier to back search by means of a possible problem (ignition switch), PMD, OPS etc, then to back search by the good ol (truck stalls) criteria.

My problem was over 2 years ago, before i found this site.

Thanks Matt,
I must not be a good searcher. I've been searching and reading about this for a couple of months. I would clean all connections and check stuff and then it would go a week without dieing. Then the next week it would die again & I would start searching again

What is the significance of of this question? Please explain. I'm still trying to figure out my 96 burb. It dies sporadically. At least once every 2 weeks.
It has no Wait to start light when it dies. If you hit the key enough times sometimes once the WTS light will come on and it will start immediately. No light no start.

I have a stalling problem with my '97 burb. I've been fighting it for a few months. It passes the lift pump test, so I went on. Yesterday I decided to backtrack and I put a fuel pressure gauge before the IP. I found I have little to no pressure, even though I am getting enough flow to get it to start and run intermittently. So, to answer your question, it is quite significant & can tell you many different things about the health of fuel flow. Had I done the fuel pressure gauge as BUYBB3 is suggesting to you, I'd have found this problem much sooner.

I have a stalling problem with my '97 burb. I've been fighting it for a few months. It passes the lift pump test, so I went on. Yesterday I decided to backtrack and I put a fuel pressure gauge before the IP. I found I have little to no pressure, even though I am getting enough flow to get it to start and run intermittently. So, to answer your question, it is quite significant & can tell you many different things about the health of fuel flow. Had I done the fuel pressure gauge as BUYBB3 is suggesting to you, I'd have found this problem much sooner.

Somehow in my bleary eyed state I read that to mean vacuum gauge instead of fuel pressure. I had never heard of testing for vacuum on the fuel line before and could not figure out what was meant. In my mind if you have a vacuum on the fuel you would definately be having a problem.

No WTS light.
Then you probley don't hear the glow relay clicking on and off.
Also the volt gage takes a dive when relay is on.

Another note with the lift pump is, a good one will put out 5-7psi.

Would this cause the WTS light to not come on?

My Suburban is a 96 not 95 that I posted earlier in this thread.

I don't think so should be independent of WTS I don't recall if continuity of this solenoid is part of a check circuit I'll have to see if schematics show it as a flow path, IIRC it's single wire putting 12V to solenoid and gnd thru the body completes circuit so coil opens the pintle valve plunger allowing flow into IP, so look with meter for 12V to coil with key on

I was experiencing the exact same issue and one of the following things fixed it:

- Gunk in the Filter bowl was cleaned out and...
- New computer installed (PCM)

Since those two steps, I have had no stalling issues, no starting issue, nothing wrong at all. I went through a LOT with this issue, new PMD, new IP, checked and rechecked all electrical. I finally just made the dealer give me a new computer because I was convinced it was an electrical problem.

good luck to you!

I had the same problem. New ignition switch ,pdm and new ground wire to computer too. Still stalling with no wts light. Put in new ecm and all works good two months later.

I also have the WTS ghost and besides the WTS light.......the "Service Throttle Body" light is not on, as well as the WTS light.

Also when this whole WTS dilema is present, the LP is definatley not running.
Is WTS and STS connected some how? and were does the LP fall into this combo of events?

Thanks,
Louis

I had the same problem. New ignition switch ,pdm and new ground wire to computer too. Still stalling with no wts light. Put in new ecm and all works good two months later.


What year and model is your unit?
What type of ECM did replace the old one with (dealer, Heath)?