I recently discovered that I've developed a leak from the front of the trans. It dumps about 2-4 oz of fluid on a cold start but then stops. There is no inspection cover and it is not getting on the converter. Just rolls off the front of the trans. I assumed it is a front seal but searching threads discovered a pump seal may be the problem. I'm not familiar with this pump seal and am curious whats involved in the repair (assuming this is the problem) and the parts required. Could I just pull the trans back or will it require the complete removal. Thanks, Jeff

Jeff You really need to remove the transmission. IMHO The shaft is too long and in the maintenance world the longest way usually turns out to be the easiest way. I kinda wonder if it isn't the input shaft seal instead of the pump seal, either case just replace them both. False economy to replace the pump seal and forego the input shaft seal. Don't split the pump apart.

Thanks for the reply GenBiltstein. I really don't want to tackle this until spring. As fast as it dumps it, would it be a waste or counterproductive to attempt using some kind of trans sealer preparation?

IMHO NO! Trans sealers make me run and not walk to the nearest exit. I believe its the input shaft seal rent a transmission jack or you can come to the east coast and borrow mine.;)
Take off the inspection covor and have a look see.

IMHO NO! Trans sealers make me run and not walk to the nearest exit. I believe its the input shaft seal rent a transmission jack or you can come to the east coast and borrow mine.;)
Take off the inspection covor and have a look see.

hi, by removing the inspection cover you should be able to conferm if the seal is leaking. yes the tranny will have to come completly out for inspection. first pull out the convertor. check the hub for wear. if you feel a groove, it will need replacement. next you should stand the tranny on end and pull the pump. if there is wear on the convertor hub the bushing will be wore out too! remove the bolts, use a slide hammer[metric threads] to pull the pump. remove the bolts on the backside. seperate the halfs and when removing the pump gears, note the placement of the inner gear very important! wash parts in solvent blow dry. i find that once you have removed seal and bushing the easy way to install the newones is to have the pump body faceing seal up. using a flat driver, hammer the bushing in flush, just a couple of taps should do it. next the seal. some like to fill the backside with vasolene to hold the spring in place. i like to use locktite on the od before install. use that flat driver again because trying to install with just a hammer damages the seal. flip the pump over,replace gears dipped in atf .bolt cover back on by aligning the holes and using a large hose clamp tocenter halfs. replace gasket and o-ring.lube o-ring [i use stp] make a dowl to scew into case, align your holes and drop in carefully. once in place, give the pump a quick push and it should snap into place,that is if you have the halfs aligned. i know it seems a lot to do but i only like to do it once. i'am here if you have any questions.

Thanks for the additional info zijmer. It had never occured to me to set a trans on end but it make perfect sense. If inclined feel free to make me a list of gaskets/seals/sealants I will need so I can have them on hand when the time comes. Otherwise I think i have everything I need except a level surface but I think I can borrow one.

Thanks for the additional info zijmer. It had never occured to me to set a trans on end but it make perfect sense. If inclined feel free to make me a list of gaskets/seals/sealants I will need so I can have them on hand when the time comes. Otherwise I think i have everything I need except a level surface but I think I can borrow one.
you will need a pump reseal kit, pump bushing, filtre and it should have a reuseable pan gasket. one thing i didn't mention, there is an o-ring onthe input shaft you have to remove before you pull the pump. save it in case you cant replace it. how do you borrow a level surface? all we have ever done was use a 20 litre pail and put a flywheel over top and stand the tranny on that.

Theres a product called "Swell Seal".. It works wonders, it doesn't make seals get hard, or to swelled. It is nothing compared to throwing in brake fluid.

seal swell would only be a short term fix if it works at all. but it does work wonders on old fords.

how do you borrow a level surface?

Use my neighbors driveway.

Use my neighbors driveway.
good thinking, iam sure that you will donate the kitty litter for free!

the bolts that hold the pump in the trans are toqued to 22-26 ft/lbs? iirc, they have an o-ring under them and did come loose on me once. pulled trans, saw they were the problem, installed new rings and retorqued.

For some reason the leak has at least temporarily stopped, perhaps giving me a reprieve untill it warms up a bit. I haven't been driving it much due to a ping/spike/lifter noise. I just received a compression tester and have plenty to keep me occupied for the time being. Hopefully it just needs injectors or an IP adjustment. I also need to find out why it's been snowing on my feet. I suspect a bit of rust in the cowl, rats. Thanks for the additional resonces, Jeff

Jeff You really need to remove the transmission. IMHO The shaft is too long and in the maintenance world the longest way usually turns out to be the easiest way. I kinda wonder if it isn't the input shaft seal instead of the pump seal, either case just replace them both. False economy to replace the pump seal and forego the input shaft seal. Don't split the pump apart.

What is an input shaft seal? On another note, I bet the pump bushing is gone or spun out and has pushed itself forward hindering the seals lip ability to keep fluid behind it.

Mike L you could be right. You have prolly been doing this since I was knee high to a tree toad.;)

Mike L you could be right. You have prolly been doing this since I was knee high to a tree toad.;)

43 years and counting.:eek::D I could be wrong also but I see a lot of this on high mileage 4L80's. The pump seal rarely fails.