Can I remove the front drive shaft for repairs and still drive the truck in 2W hi? Would this cause any damage?

As long as you do not have a T-case that leaks oil when the shaft is out it is ok. IIRC there can be clutch damage if operated in auto mode but 2hi is OK.

thanks max, it seems that i do have the "fourth button" auto-4wd. Not that it matters but why does that make a difference? as long as I keep it in 2 wheel hi? Shouldn't the transfer case only send power to the rear? or is there an encoder dothingy that needs to be spinning for any of it work?

OK, may have answered my own question for a change! Local Chevy dealer service guy tells me that if I remove that shaft it will spew transfer case oil all over da place? I assume while driving? Could it be that the small rubber boot on the t-case end of that shaft is keeping all the fluid in? I dunno....

Max, how about just removing the shaft and NOT driving the truck? I'd surely be alright then ya?

You will be fine, just keep it in 2hi and no worries. But remember Murphy's Law... as soon as you disable your 4x4, it will snow a foot):h

The boot is to protect the slip yoke splines/grease on the front shaft. It will not spew oil because the seal is on the outside of the output shaft... Here is a crappy picture...http://service.gm.com/engif/000/000/749/749434.gif

Probably, thats the way it works in PA, lonnng falls, snows a foot or two, lonng spring! Thanks Max, I think I'll Pull the shaft out in the drive and see what happens, no leaks we drive her, leaking she sits. thanks man you are the best1

is that seal some thing i should replace whilst i am in there? easy job?

"If it isn't broke, don't fix it" applies to seals.

Cool on that. Shaft is out(no leaks, but opted for the other car to deliver) and over at my local wrench getting new u-joints pressed in. Couple of loose ends maybe you can help with those also?

1. What is the torque rating for the 4 u-joint clamp bolts?
2. What kind of grease should i use on the splines? (as it seems pretty dry)
3. Would heavy tie-wraps be enough to hold the spline cover in place or should I get some of those crimp style clamps like OEM?
4. What about getting the shaft balanced prior to re-install? (all the factory welded weights seem to be in place)

As always thanks, I hope that someday I can give back as much as I've taken from this bbs.

Propeller Shaft Replacement - Front


Tools Required

J 43218 Clamp Pliers - Narrow Jaw

Removal Procedure



Important: Before disassembly, observe and accurately reference mark all driveline components relative to the propeller shaft and axles. These items include the following components:
<TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>The propeller shafts </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>The wheel drive shafts </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>The pinion flanges </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>The output shafts </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Assemble all components in the exact relationship to each other as they were prior to removal. Observe all published specifications and torque values, and any measurements obtained prior to disassembly.




<LI type=1>Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. <LI type=1>Remove the transfer case shield, if equipped. Refer to the appropriate procedure: <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>Transfer Case Shield Replacement in Transfer Case - NVG 149-NP </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>Transfer Case Shield Replacement in Transfer Case - NVG 236/246-NP8 </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>Transfer Case Shield Replacement in Transfer Case - NVG 261-NP2 </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>Transfer Case Shield Replacement in Transfer Case - NVG 263-NP1 </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

http://service.gm.com/engif/000/000/363/363784.gif

<LI type=1>Remove the rear propeller shaft boot clamp (4) by prying up the exposed end of the clamp with a flat-bladed tool. <LI type=1>Reference mark the relationship of the propeller shaft to the front axle pinon yoke.
http://service.gm.com/engif/000/000/914/914933.gif

<LI type=1>Remove the bolts (6) and the yoke retainers (7) from the front axle pinion yoke (1). Notice: When removing the propeller shaft, do not attempt to remove the shaft by pounding on the yoke ears or using a tool between the yoke and the universal joint. If the propeller shaft is removed by using such means, the injection joints may fracture and lead to premature failure of the joint.

Important: Do not drop the bearing cap assemblies of the yoke end.


<LI type=1>Disconnect the propeller shaft (2) from the front axle pinion yoke (1). Wrap the bearing caps with tape in order to prevent the loss of bearing rollers. <LI type=1>Disconnect the boot from the groove on the OD of the transfer case output shaft.
Remove the propeller shaft from the transfer case output shaft by sliding the propeller shaft forward.
Installation Procedure

<LI type=1>Inspect the splines of the transfer case output shaft for a sufficient coating of lubricant. If the output shaft does not have a sufficient coating of lubricant, lubricate the shaft with grease, GM P/N 12345879 (Canadian P/N 10953511) or equivalent lubricant meeting GM Specification 9985830. <LI type=1>Install a new clamp onto the propeller shaft boot. <LI type=1>Install the propeller shaft splines into the transfer case output shaft.
http://service.gm.com/engif/000/000/914/914933.gif

<LI type=1>Install the propeller shaft (5) to the front axle pinion yoke (1). Align the reference marks made during removal. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.

<LI type=1>Install the yoke retainers (7) and the bolts (6).
Tighten
Tighten the yoke retainer bolts to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).

<LI type=1>Install the boot onto the transfer case output shaft until the boot snaps into the groove on the output shaft.
http://service.gm.com/engif/000/000/319/319738.gif

<LI type=1>Crimp the rear propeller shaft boot clamp using the J 43218 until the dimensions shown are obtained. <LI type=1>Install the transfer case shield, if equipped. Refer to the appropriate procedure: <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>Transfer Case Shield Replacement in Transfer Case - NVG 149-NP </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>Transfer Case Shield Replacement in Transfer Case - NVG 236/246-NP8 </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>Transfer Case Shield Replacement in Transfer Case - NVG 261-NP2 </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>Transfer Case Shield Replacement in Transfer Case - NVG 263-NP1 </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Lower the vehicle.

oops! - kidding! Well that sure makes it sound nearly impossible. Lucky for me I didn't move the truck, eh? Got the new shaft back this eve., will attempt re-install before the afore mentioned SNOW arrives in the afternoon! (working in the driveway @25F=sucky day) Max, you got a crystal ball or something? thanks, that's all I need to get'r done.