.....First, I remember reading an article about changes made to the LBZ verses previous models. One was the addition of a fueling event during the exhaust stroke to lower emissions in conjunction with the EGR. Can the EFI guys or anybody confirm this?
.....Second, I'm not 100% sure but it seems my engine coolant temps stay cold for a longer period at start-up since I blocked my EGR. A few times the engine will turn over more before starting too. Anyone else notice this? I may temporarily remove my blocker to see if there is any difference.
.....Third, it seems that the LBZ was engineered with the EGR instead of just slapping on an EGR as with some previous models. What do you think?
.....Last, how many miles do you have on your LBZ with a blocker?

Think I can only answer #2 with any certainty.

EGR opens a lot less then you think and couldn't imagine it changing the time to warm . Certainly shouldn't effect how it is turning over. Even yesterday with the truck outside all day in 5 degree weather I was pulling heat in 7 minutes or so, 10 max. Let it warm for 3 or 4 minutes then took off slowly. I use the grill cover as long as it is under 35. I have wanted to block but with my extended warranty I'm chicken to do it.

".....First, I remember reading an article about changes made to the LBZ verses previous models. One was the addition of a fueling event during the exhaust stroke to lower emissions in conjunction with the EGR. Can the EFI guys or anybody confirm this?"

I believe what you are referring to is called post injection. You can turn it off with EFI Live as some of us have done with little effect.....

My truck takes longer to get warm as well with my blocker. I have about 20000 miles with it installed.

At the end of the day i Know it will keep things cleaner so i will never remove it, especially now that i got rid of the codes and prevented it from operating.

The extra cranking time is from your Edge...

All but the first 600 miles on mine have been blocked. Now approaching 30K miles....

Guys,thanks for the responses.
Thats good to know about the "post injection" thing. I was hoping the EFI guys would have some insight on that. With my truck, my main goal is longevity and some better fuel mileage. I always thought of EFI as a "race" tune but I can definitely see other advantages the more I learn about these motors.
On another note, I took my blocker out before I came home from work today and did notice a few differences. It does seem to start a hair quicker without the blocker. Also on the road cruising between 1400-1800 RPM's the motor seems quieter and smoother with no blocker. With the blocker the motor sounds different- throatier, or a bit more "rattle". I don't know if thats bad, just different.I can say this, after just 2 days with my blocker in it already had a black circle on it from blocking the soot from going in the motor....
I'm still on the fence about which way is better for the motor, but I like the idea of keeping the soot out.
I think Haulin-RV had 280,000+ on his LBZ with no blocker- pretty good. I wonder if any LBZs are approaching that with a blocker?
Again, thanks.

I took mine out with the same results. But the reason I took mine out was because of mileage. I lost 2 mpg with the thing in and now I'm trying to see if the mileage creeps back up.

i have had my LLY blocked for 160k miles. The truck has 190k miles on it. I still have the original injectors and brakes on it. the truck has towed a 12k lbs trailer both highway and in major metropolitan areas. The diablosport has been on it for the same amount of time. my dad is now enjoying the truck.

my LBZ has been blocked and diablosport on it for 40k miles on it. I have 54k miles on it. No issues at this time. Yes warm up is a little longer, but I am fine with keeping it clean internally. At least, no soot being recirculated back into the motor. to me that is like flushing your toilet and reusing the waste to fill the tank. Not in my house, nor in my truck.

Remember, one of the main failures the ,has been experiencing, is the EGR failures. what are these failures from? I have seen soot buildup and clogg the lines even in the gas engines. EGR is my sense is bad on diesels.

It is a personal preference and what you should be comfortable with. If you are ok with choking your engine, by letting it breathe soot, then you should leave it unblocked. I see your muffler is deleted, is your kitty gone yet? If not, then the blocker plate will be meeting more resistance as the back pressure is still there. If you still have the kitty, then running it without the blocker will make it run more normal to you. For me normal is no kitty and blocked as is both of my trucks.

I took mine out with the same results. But the reason I took mine out was because of mileage. I lost 2 mpg with the thing in and now I'm trying to see if the mileage creeps back up.

Has anyone else noticed this? Could it be the colder temps this winter? I did not gain any mpg (maybe even lost 1-2) after I installed a turbo-back exhaust and blocked and fingered my truck. But, it turned off cold after I did all of that and I just thought that the losses were because of the colder temps. Could it be because of the blocker plate?

Can't for the life of me see how a EGR makes the truck warm up easier. All in all it is supposed to be reducing combustion temps. Counter intuitive if you ask me.

I have always been on the fence on blocking it just due to my warranty. I would be stupid to throw away $1700. All in all though if you guys are loosing mileage then I won't do it but instead will put a oil by pass on to clean up the oil a little. Won't do anything for a dirty intake but it will do something.

My truck will sometimes take an extra crank or two. It doesn't seem to be temperature related. I never gave it much concern. I attributed it to where the engine stopped previously. These new diesels also need to get alot of sensor info before they will fire. The fact that they start as fast as they do tells you somethihg about their processing speed. Pretty impressive IMO.

Can't for the life of me see how a EGR makes the truck warm up easier. All in all it is supposed to be reducing combustion temps. Counter intuitive if you ask me.

I have always been on the fence on blocking it just due to my warranty. I would be stupid to throw away $1700. All in all though if you guys are loosing mileage then I won't do it but instead will put a oil by pass on to clean up the oil a little. Won't do anything for a dirty intake but it will do something.

The EGR actually acts as another heat source for the coolant. The coolant passes through the EGR cooler and is heated by the exhaust gasses as it passes through. It's the same reason that the trucks run a little cooler in the summer. Less heat load with a blocker.

[quote=dntfxr77;2398333.....Second, I'm not 100% sure but it seems my engine coolant temps stay cold for a longer period at start-up since I blocked my EGR. A few times the engine will turn over more before starting too. Anyone else notice this? I may temporarily remove my blocker to see if there is any difference. [/quote]

I'm thinking this happens because the hot exhaust gas is not returning back to the engine when the egr is blocked. In order for exhaust temps to go down before being released into the atmosphere the heat needs to be absorbed somewhere.

I see your muffler is deleted, is your kitty gone yet? If not, then the blocker plate will be meeting more resistance as the back pressure is still there. If you still have the kitty, then running it without the blocker will make it run more normal to you. For me normal is no kitty and blocked as is both of my trucks.

I'm new to this all so I never knew this. I hear of egr block plates which I think I have somewhat an idea about. Didn't know your cat needed to be deleted too in order for it to work right. Is this necessarily true?

What do you guys do for warranty work? Do you take it out every time you go to the dealer? If I put my truck back to stock (from the PPE), I would then get a CEL. So I would be forced to uninstall it everytime......

:help::banghead: I just wish that we could get some expert opinions on this matter!!! Like "DAN" does some of your PPE trucks run the plates or not? And any other guys that own/work/sell out of some major shop's like "BANKS" what are your opionions?:confuzeld

Alright another update. I drove some more with the blocker out and then decided to put it back in.:o:Again. I don't believe there is as much of a difference in the sound as I thought.Maybe the cooler weather made a difference before? With the Attitude monitor I probably just keep an eye on things more than I did before.

One thing I did notice today that may be affecting fuel mileage with some- When I first put the blocker in today, according to the DIC:rolleyes: my mileage dropped to like 11mpgs (the lowest its ever shown with that driving style). I didn't have a check engine light on, but I checked for codes anyway and it showed a "EGR insufficient flow". So I cleared it and reset the DIC and it showed a jump to about 19-21.I know the DIC isn't accurate, but it stands to reason it would give some indication as to a decrease in mileage?Maybe thats why some have lower MPGs with a blocker?Anyway it may mean nothing, but I figured I'd pass that along.
I see your muffler is deleted, is your kitty gone yet? If not, then the blocker plate will be meeting more resistance as the back pressure is still there. If you still have the kitty, then running it without the blocker will make it run more normal to you. For me normal is no kitty and blocked as is both of my trucks.
Yeah I do still have the cat but maybe not for long. I didn't realize how that would affect the EGR but it makes sense.

And about taking the blocker out for warranty, its much easier the second and third time;) so no worries there. I takes me about 5 minutes now.:)

My truck will sometimes take an extra crank or two. It doesn't seem to be temperature related. I never gave it much concern. I attributed it to where the engine stopped previously. These new diesels also need to get alot of sensor info before they will fire. The fact that they start as fast as they do tells you somethihg about their processing speed. Pretty impressive IMO.
I think you're right. My extra crank the other day may have been completely unrelated (it was below freezing). Today with the blocker it fired right up as normal.

The Fingerstick is what "fools" the computer into thinking everything is ok, hence no CEL. I had this installed while I noticed the mileage drop.

The Fingerstick is what "fools" the computer into thinking everything is ok, hence no CEL. I had this installed while I noticed the mileage drop.
What I experienced was No CEL, but there was a DTC. Still, maybe no difference.
Edited to add I have no fingerstick yet.

Has anyone had any "issues" with their warranty by removing the blocker plate and but leaving the fingerstick in? I really hate to kiss a 100k mile warranty good-bye, even if it is Valentine's Day! :p:

Like I said is there any "PRO" advice out there?:rolleyes:

40k miles and there is excessive amounts of oil buildup coming from everywhere. wasn't like that 5k miles ago. installed at 15. its just a work truck though, who knows what my mexicans do to that shit

40k miles and there is excessive amounts of oil buildup coming from everywhere. wasn't like that 5k miles ago. installed at 15. its just a work truck though, who knows what my mexicans do to that shit
That leads to another question- Who has rerouted the PCV valve after the blocker?

I'm new to this all so I never knew this. I hear of egr block plates which I think I have somewhat an idea about. Didn't know your cat needed to be deleted too in order for it to work right. Is this necessarily true?


The blocker plate will work right with the cat in, just defeats the purpose. With the cat in, you don't need the blocker plate unless you just want to block soot. the fingerstick was developed for the free flowing exhausts. If you delete the cat and keep the muffler, you may not need the finger stick as well. My thing is if you are going to block it, you need to fingerstick it, unless you programmer will take care of the codes for you. If you are going to go that far, lose the kitty and keep your EGTs down. Leaving the cat in place, you still have back pressure. My LLY is straight piped and I have had no issues. My dad is driving it now and it has 193K miles on it. MY LBZ has 54K miles on it and I have the MBRP 4" turbo back exhaust. I left the muffler in bu since this is a free flowing muffler system, the back pressure is too low for the EGR to operate normally without codes. But, I like no soot being recirculated so I blocked it and fingersticked it.

Has anyone had any "issues" with their warranty by removing the blocker plate and but leaving the fingerstick in? I really hate to kiss a 100k mile warranty good-bye, even if it is Valentine's Day! :p:

I leave them both in as they are hidden enough. The techs at the dealer don't look for them nor do they stand out. The dealer has to prove that your mod caused the failure for them not to warrantee the issue. If it is related to the EGR, remove the blocker plate and as long as your install of the fingerstick appears to be stock, they'll never even look.

Thanks for the info NCMIC

The blocker plate will work right with the cat in, just defeats the purpose. With the cat in, you don't need the blocker plate unless you just want to block soot. the fingerstick was developed for the free flowing exhausts. If you delete the cat and keep the muffler, you may not need the finger stick as well. My thing is if you are going to block it, you need to fingerstick it, unless you programmer will take care of the codes for you. If you are going to go that far, lose the kitty and keep your EGTs down. Leaving the cat in place, you still have back pressure. My LLY is straight piped and I have had no issues. My dad is driving it now and it has 193K miles on it. MY LBZ has 54K miles on it and I have the MBRP 4" turbo back exhaust. I left the muffler in bu since this is a free flowing muffler system, the back pressure is too low for the EGR to operate normally without codes. But, I like no soot being recirculated so I blocked it and fingersticked it.

I have the blocker and Finger but an MBRP cat back exhaust. My county tests emissions so I'm not sure about removing the cat. I drive my truck lots around town so I'm not sure if removing the cat would be a good idea or not. I've heard people on here say the removal of the cat gives them less low end and more mid range torque...?
I also have my PCV vented... I got sick of the oil leaking out of the tubes and my truck only has 12K on it...
Do you think it's worth getting a cat delete pipe and simply removing it and replacing it with the cat if the truck has to be tested?
I definitely felt like the truck was more responsive with the blocker but I too have had warm up issues and I think the truck never really gets warmed up enough to get good MPG. I also run a Hypertech on Level II.

I had 37k Miles on my LBZ when I did my first mod: EGR block and Fingers stk. I did that mod because of what I read here in DP. And read I did...for a month before deciding to do so. To date, there has not been even an inkling of an issue (Thanx to MPL motorsports of L.A.), and I do believe that my intake is relatively clean. Pristine..?, well I don't know if I would go that far...but clean, yea you bet.

Just the way is should be... No.??

Blocking it and adding a fingerstick is in my opinion just one of the things one could conceivably do to help increase a motors life...adding an oil bypass (and changing oil regularly & when required), along with secondary fuel filtration, kind of complete the circle...my .02 only. I'm not a mechanic and don't really know $hit about diesels...but common sense I gots....and these things are in that particular ball park.!

Regular Maintenance & working it from time to time will do wonders for your truck. Adding an exhaust and a system (programmer), that allows you to monitor the trucks performance will enhance the experience.

Similarly, doing some small mods to the Allison will reap benefits as well.

All these potenital mods are an investment in a, not so cheap vehicle...but one that should last a lifetime if so desired.

cheers,
stk

I had 37k Miles on my LBZ when I did my first mod: EGR block and Fingers stk. I did that mod because of what I read here in DP. And read I did...for a month before deciding to do so. To date, there has not been even an inkling of an issue (Thanx to MPL motorsports of L.A.), and I do believe that my intake is relatively clean. Pristine..?, well I don't know if I would go that far...but clean, yea you bet.

Just the way is should be... No.??

Blocking it and adding a fingerstick is in my opinion just one of the things one could conceivably do to help increase a motors life...adding an oil bypass (and changing oil regularly & when required), along with secondary fuel filtration, kind of complete the circle...my .02 only. I'm not a mechanic and don't really know $hit about diesels...but common sense I gots....and these things are in that particular ball park.!

Regular Maintenance & working it from time to time will do wonders for your truck. Adding an exhaust and a system (programmer), that allows you to monitor the trucks performance will enhance the experience.

Similarly, doing some small mods to the Allison will reap benefits as well.

All these potenital mods are an investment in a, not so cheap vehicle...but one that should last a lifetime if so desired.

cheers,
stk

Good way to look at it.