I have my first analysis which I have attached and I have high copper 721. Not sure what that means at this point. I have read heare where it is believed to be the cooler lines but I assume there is bronze bearings used as well.

Anyone like to comment on what they see in the report.

It also showed low viscosity for the Amsoil 5-40 CJ-4 oil.

I have 26500 miles on the truck mostly around town but with some towing (~6000miles)of a 6000lb camper. The last 10000 have been with the Amsoil the previous 6000 with regular oil (dealer) and the fist 10000 on what the truck came with. Changed the first when the oil change indicator came on but early for the second. I have the same Amsoil in now and have changed the filter to an Eao Amsoil filter.

I have my first analysis which I have attached and I have high copper 721. Not sure what that means at this point. I have read heare where it is believed to be the cooler lines but I assume there is bronze bearings used as well.

Anyone like to comment on what they see in the report.

It also showed low viscosity for the Amsoil 5-40 CJ-4 oil.

I have 26500 miles on the truck mostly around town but with some towing (~6000miles)of a 6000lb camper. The last 10000 have been with the Amsoil the previous 6000 with regular oil (dealer) and the fist 10000 on what the truck came with. Changed the first when the oil change indicator came on but early for the second. I have the same Amsoil in now and have changed the filter to an Eao Amsoil filter.i had engine wear with amsoil in my boat, wear on the crank, i dont trust the stuff.....

721 is WAY high. Some of the Cu very well may be from the oil cooler, but a 721 PPM reading is excessive for just an oil cooler. I'd dump the oil, change the filter and resample in 2500 miles or so to see what the Cu reading looks like.

...I have high copper 721....low viscosity for the Amsoil 5-40 CJ-4 oil....I have 26500 miles ... mostly around town but with some towing ... last 10000 with the Amsoil, the previous 6000 with regular oil (dealer) and the fist 10000 on what the truck came with....

Your Iron (Fe) and Silicon (Si – dirt) were also on the high side for a Duramax UOA. Not that you shouldn’t be concerned but this could be explained by your driving conditions and somewhat long OCIs for a new engine. Short trips and towing are more stressful on the oil/engine. Seeing you ran with the factory fill for 10k, the oil could have a higher concentration of Si and other left over manufacturing debris. (I did three short 1k OCI’s with mine when it was new to “flush” the engine”). You might want to shorten your OCI to 5-7kmi and resample... also add TBN ... You could also switch to 15w40 Delo 400 – its produced some of the best DMAX UOA’s on the BITOG UOA forum...If you go over to the BITOG you’ll find other DMAX UOA’s with high copper. There’s a post there for a DMAX with 960 ppm Cu but poster’s UOA history shows it trending down to single digits after more miles.

i had engine wear with amsoil in my boat, wear on the crank, i dont trust the stuff.....
Been tring to tell you guys ...schaeffers but you dont want to listen

Or Delo as stated...get the Amsoil outta there- don't know if it pertains to your issues, but if the DMax is a japanese built engine, you (MAY) also need higher calcium levels- that 5w40 amsoil ppms are quite low. Heated thread about that at BITOG right now.

Or Schaeffer's...

I have my first analysis which I have attached and I have high copper 721. Not sure what that means at this point. I have read heare where it is believed to be the cooler lines but I assume there is bronze bearings used as well.

Anyone like to comment on what they see in the report.

It also showed low viscosity for the Amsoil 5-40 CJ-4 oil.

I have 26500 miles on the truck mostly around town but with some towing (~6000miles)of a 6000lb camper. The last 10000 have been with the Amsoil the previous 6000 with regular oil (dealer) and the fist 10000 on what the truck came with. Changed the first when the oil change indicator came on but early for the second. I have the same Amsoil in now and have changed the filter to an Eao Amsoil filter.

First off, you don't need to run a CJ-4 oil in a 2006 engine. I would switch to AmsOil 15-40. I had high copper for a while also. I run Series 3000 5w-30 with dual remote filters and let oil analysis rule my filter changes. At 59,000 total miles, all I have done is filter changes. My drain plug hasn't been removed since the truck had 11,000 miles on it. My truck uses NO il between filter changes.

i had engine wear with amsoil in my boat, wear on the crank, i dont trust the stuff.....

dude.....whatever.

Or Delo as stated...get the Amsoil outta there- don't know if it pertains to your issues, but if the DMax is a japanese built engine, you (MAY) also need higher calcium levels- that 5w40 amsoil ppms are quite low. Heated thread about that at BITOG right now.

Whatever you guys....it's called break-in period for any diesel which is usually about 10-15k. Ask any TRUE diesel mechanic.

Or Delo as stated...get the Amsoil outta there- don't know if it pertains to your issues, but if the DMax is a japanese built engine, you (MAY) also need higher calcium levels- that 5w40 amsoil ppms are quite low. Heated thread about that at BITOG right now.
I've read that some Japanese diesels running oils with low calcium showed more pitting than normal. I don't know if that applies to our Duramax or not?
I think most GM show elevated copper initially from the oil coolers.
I wouldn't sweat it.:cool:

BTW, why not just change your oil every 5-8 thousand miles, unless your trying to sell something?:confused:Your oil has nothing to prove....
just my 2cts

Switch to Schaeffer's. Not only will you save money, you'll be getting a better lubricant... :D

Rob

Switch to Schaeffer's. Not only will you save money, you'll be getting a better lubricant... :D

RobiI AGREE, OR MOBIL, WOULD NOT RUN AMSOIL IN MY LAWNMOWER......

yep no aimsoil in my lawnmower or my wifes sewing machine ,I save the aimsoil for my truck,evrything else gets the cheap stuff

I've read that some Japanese diesels running oils with low calcium showed more pitting than normal. I don't know if that applies to our Duramax or not?
I think most GM show elevated copper initially from the oil coolers.
I wouldn't sweat it.:cool:

My apologies- didn't mean to say that the copper leaching was a cause of the additive levels, just as an FYI.
I know a few guys who own DMax's and they have also mentioned about the Copper levels...guess it's normal, maybe. Somewhat like the 6.0 Ford PS shears oil terribly, and the newer Cummins are hit or miss with Amsoil...

Whatever you guys....it's called break-in period for any diesel which is usually about 10-15k. Ask any TRUE diesel mechanic.

What is a "true" diesel mechanic?

My apologies- didn't mean to say that the copper leaching was a cause of the additive levels, just as an FYI.
I know a few guys who own DMax's and they have also mentioned about the Copper levels...guess it's normal, maybe. Somewhat like the 6.0 Ford PS shears oil terribly, and the newer Cummins are hit or miss with Amsoil...

:)No, I understand. My post was a bit confusing as I was addressing two separate issues.
BTW, I run Rotella 5w40 in part because the Ca is over 3000 ppm.

What is a "true" diesel mechanic?

When you walk into a "repair" shop or dealer, the guy doesn't come out from under the hood of a Chevy HHR and say "oh yeah buddy, sure you can run the he%! out of that thing for the first 1000 miles....IT'S HEAVY DUTY!!!!!! Duramax's are built to run boy, not walk!" :eek: Yes, this is a real story. Just clarifying....

Whats up with the aimsoil getting trashed show some prof back it up

I Have No Pics To Show As This Was 3 Years Ago, But I Was Running 20w50 Amsoil Racing Oil In A 454 Mag Boat Engine, The Cylinders Were Fine But The Crank Was Scuffed Up And It Should Not Have Been....

I had high iron with it....

Plus too many others have had issues with it- combined with my own experience is enough for me.

First off, you don't need to run a CJ-4 oil in a 2006 engine. I would switch to AmsOil 15-40. I had high copper for a while also. I run Series 3000 5w-30 with dual remote filters and let oil analysis rule my filter changes. At 59,000 total miles, all I have done is filter changes. My drain plug hasn't been removed since the truck had 11,000 miles on it. My truck uses NO il between filter changes.

PS, Did I mention I have been using Amsoil products for 29+ years in the freezing cold of Michigan and Minnesota and for the past 14 years in "Hotter Then Hell" Texas. And yes I put it in my lawmower, weedeater, trinmmer, etc.

1lbz4me - let's start from a reasonable point, and discuss a few things, and then I'll suggest an action plan.

First of all, it's true that new Dmax engines throw out a lot of copper in the first 25k miles or so, but your copper count is WAY high. This is indicative of a few possibilities. First, the reading could be wrong. Second, you could actually have a true mechanical problem. Third, you've applied no consistiency to your approach.

With that in mind, NEVER take one UOA and use it for making a decision. It's not unlike getting bad news from the doctor; GET A SECOND OPINION!

Here's my suggestion. Dump the sump and filter. Fill it with your choice of oil brand and filter. Stick with this brand and filter for the next several successive 5k mile oil/filter changes. Do a series of UOA's. See where you stand. Share it with us. Make sure to repeat, using the same brand oil and filter, over and over again for a total of 25k miles. Make sure to use the same lab. Share with them your concern over the copper readings, and have them make sure of their equipment calibrations.

UOA's are a great tool, but ONLY when used with respect for their inherent limitations. You cannot use just one reading and make assumptions. Get several, start charting your results, and look for ranges and trends.

After all that, share with us your info and we'll all be in a better position to advise you. It's not time for panic, nor is it appropriate to blame one brand of oil yet.

......Schaeffers Oil......:rolleyes:

My first oil analysis came back with a "999" copper reading. The next one was in the 150 range.

After that, copper levels dropped to low/normal ranges and are holding there.

If your engine is new, then I would change your oil & re-sample at the normal interval. I also would not worry.

If the engine is NOT new, then you may have problems.

1lbz4me - let's start from a reasonable point, and discuss a few things, and then I'll suggest an action plan.

First of all, it's true that new Dmax engines throw out a lot of copper in the first 25k miles or so, but your copper count is WAY high. This is indicative of a few possibilities. First, the reading could be wrong. Second, you could actually have a true mechanical problem. Third, you've applied no consistiency to your approach.

With that in mind, NEVER take one UOA and use it for making a decision. It's not unlike getting bad news from the doctor; GET A SECOND OPINION!

Here's my suggestion. Dump the sump and filter. Fill it with your choice of oil brand and filter. Stick with this brand and filter for the next several successive 5k mile oil/filter changes. Do a series of UOA's. See where you stand. Share it with us. Make sure to repeat, using the same brand oil and filter, over and over again for a total of 25k miles. Make sure to use the same lab. Share with them your concern over the copper readings, and have them make sure of their equipment calibrations.

UOA's are a great tool, but ONLY when used with respect for their inherent limitations. You cannot use just one reading and make assumptions. Get several, start charting your results, and look for ranges and trends.

After all that, share with us your info and we'll all be in a better position to advise you. It's not time for panic, nor is it appropriate to blame one brand of oil yet.


This is some excellent advice.