Looking at a couple used air compressors and ran across an old Ingersoll Rand 60 gal. century and a new husky pro. I was hoping some of you guys could help me out on the decision. It will be used daily to run an impact wrench for mower maint. and maybe an occasional grinder.

Husky Pro:

3.2 Hp
11.5 SCFM @ 40 PSI
10.2 SCFM @ 90 PSI

I couldn't find any info about the Ingersoll Rand online.

Both are listed for $350. Here are pics of the units.

The only thing that would stop me from buying the Ingersoll is if the motor is single or 3ph and power availability back at your shop.

The IR is an industrial machine and will last longer. If there is a 3 phase motor and you have only 1 phase available, changing the motor isn't hard or too expensive.
The Husky is basically made to be inexpensive.

would you rather buy the real deal or a knock off?

The Husky's I've looked at have been repainted Campbell-Hausfelds.

get the IR, you'll be happy with it in the long run.

Can't go wrong with the IR.

Go with the I.R. if it sounds solid, that is a single phase motor on it. Make sure you get a magnetic starter for the install, if you try to run the power through the pressure switch you will smoke the motor. Parts are available for those pumps, use a quality 30wt oil and you will be much happier.The only real issues with those pumps are the valve plates/gaskets. Good luck

Ingersoll Rand industrial compressors are very, very good.

Mine was in use 9 hours a day minimum for 10 years. Total cost of maintenance is perhaps $200 so far. Nothing has ever went wrong with it. It is now a backup compressor and I'm using a rotary compressor.

PS - If something says "Oil-Less" on it, what they really mean is "Disposible". Last one I blew up shot the piston (looks like a valve) through the head and top of the shed. Sounded like a .30-06. It was a "7HP" (har-d-har-har) "Industrial" DeViebliss? that was 9 months old.

oil-less air compressors make me want to go insane!!

Okay, I guess my next questions is if I go with the IR what is everything I need to hook it up to 220v and where can I get it at? What motor do you recommend swapping it out with so it's no single phase? How hard is it to replace a valve plate/gasket on it?

Single phase is preferable. It is the most common and your house likely has it. Three phase is primarily used in industry and usually is not available for residences.

You just need standard electrical supplies from Lowes or Home Depot to install it but if you are not familiar with electrical wiring I'd recommend getting an electrician to do the hookup for you.

oil-less air compressors make me want to go insane!!

Actually the two types shouldn't compete - doesn't make sense. Wet compressors run the impact, dry ones can run the sprayer, or maybe the grease gun. Why not have both, it's not like that's a big investment. Could be cheaper than having dedicated clean lines.

for a 220v hookup, you'll need a 30 amp double breaker(get the same brand as your service panel) and 12-2 wire. If it's a long run, consider 10-2. Flip off the main breaker. On the service panel end, hook up the ground wire to the ground bus, and the two hot wires to the two poles on the breaker and install the breaker. At the compressor end, white hot to white, black hot to black and hook up your ground.

Add: if that doesn't make any sense to you, then get a qualified electrician.

PS - If something says "Oil-Less" on it, what they really mean is "Disposible". Last one I blew up shot the piston (looks like a valve) through the head and top of the shed. Sounded like a .30-06. It was a "7HP" (har-d-har-har) "Industrial" DeViebliss? that was 9 months old.


That's actually funny because they make the compressors for Sears ( Craftsman ) and mine did the same thing only it was 3 days over the warranty. Sears wanted 368.00 to repair a 299.00 compressor :cookoo::wtf::wtf1: I got pissed and went next door to Home Depot and bought the 60 gallon 7 horse Husky and it has been perfect for the last 3 yrs.

The picture of the I.R. you posted was difinitely a single phase motor. As I stated earlier you want a magnetic motor contactor (starter) with a thermal overload and not operate it through the pressure switch. You can purchase these through Grainger or any electriclal supply, shop arround.Maybe whoever you are getting the compressor from has the old contactor
Replacing the valve plates is simple if you are using it for shop use you will figure it out quick. Just make sure everything is clean and use a torque wrench. If it wasn't abused you will probly never have to touch it. Use a high quality oil I like synthetic because even if it passes alittle oil past the rings it won't carbon up the valves.

Well that one ended up getting sold before I could get to it. Thank you for all the helpful info. Do you uys have any recomendations on certain brands to be keeping an eye out for all the used market, 60 gallon size?

Try the yellow pages for "Air Compressors". You can find a local company that has some used units that were taken in trade. The prices should be good, and someone will stand behind it.

These are some of the best you can buy......www.eatoncompressor.com

That would be nice to have but a little out of the budget at the moment. I'm looking for something in the $400 ballpark.

I have never heard of Eaton air compressor's.
For what you get for the price it sounds too good to be true.
Are they as good as they say they are?

what about campbell hausfeld compressors?? they seem to be pretty good, no??

I have a small campbell hausfeld compressor, maybe a 2-3hp motor. It's been running ok for a long time now, probably 20-25 years. Always used to keep it on to get air quick. I don't like the plastic valve and fittings on it. They are a real bear to find a replacement for. I like the looks and pricing of the eaton ones and am now saving my pennys for one.

the Eaton compressor is just a company that appears to purchase different compressor pumps and build thier own package, the one 25 h.p. unit appeared to be a saylorbeal pump. campell hausfield is a ok company, the thing to look out for is the cheap aluminum throw away units almost all of the cast iron units are good. Alot of companies that always built real solid units have gone to cheaper designs that don't last as long as the old designs example Quincy has built one of the best pumps out there and still do but they also have thier economy units.

At the shop I have a IR UNI-15-150

here is some info. HERE (http://air.ingersollrand.com/IS/product.aspx-en-12827)

These are some of the best you can buy......www.eatoncompressor.com (http://www.eatoncompressor.com)

Breadburner, have you used Eaton? I have been looking at their portables just for home use. They have the highest pressure rating in 90PSI for that size and good price.

Probably too late but Quincy Compressors are quality pcs.

http://www.quincycompressor.com/

If you go with the IR (which I recommend) and do in fact use the advice given to start/stop the motor through a starter (contactor), pm me and I will get you one at our cost. I am a designer for a control panel manufacturer and keep dozens in stock...starters and overloads (if needed - motor may have its own internal overload) are expensive if you just buy from grainger or other supply house.

Just trying to help out.

Buy larger than you think you'll need. 60 gallon is a good size for what you're talking about, 5HP minimum if you can swing it.

Looking at a couple used air compressors and ran across an old Ingersoll Rand 60 gal. century and a new husky pro. I was hoping some of you guys could help me out on the decision. It will be used daily to run an impact wrench for mower maint. and maybe an occasional grinder.

Husky Pro:

3.2 Hp
11.5 SCFM @ 40 PSI
10.2 SCFM @ 90 PSI

I couldn't find any info about the Ingersoll Rand online.

Both are listed for $350. Here are pics of the units.

Scoop up that IR. For $350.00 it's a steal.
Even if there is something wrong with it, I'd take the IR over the Huskey. That old IR was built to be rapaired the Huskey was built to be tossed out.

If you need more info on the IR please feel free to PM me. I was an IR dealer for over 15 years and get get you what ever you need to get it running.

Buy larger than you think you'll need. 60 gallon is a good size for what you're talking about, 5HP minimum if you can swing it.

Spot on!! It'll only be weeks before you'll be needing a bigger compressor and will wish you had spent a little more. Compressors are just one of those things you need to get the biggest and best you can afford. You may not need it now, but next thing you know, you want to sandblast this, paint that, and you don't have the air to do it. After making that mistake twice myself, and basically flushing hundreds and hundreds of dollars I stepped up to the 7.5HP eaton unit. I love NEVER running out of air, regardless of what I'm doing or if a friend is helping. I realize this is extreme for most home shops, and hobbiests, but seriously, go as big as you can, and avoid the "oil-less" like the plague. They are far noisier, heat the air significantly more, and run at a much higher rpm. Also be very weary of HP claims, as many companies rate their HP at startup, vs running. The other one to be cautious of is SCFM; many companies do not give you "free air" but a tanks assisted number that doesnt mean anything once the tank is low.

Best of luck! :cool:
-Brandon

Stick with the recommendations - 220v, 5 hp, 60 gal, oil lubricated. avoid sears at all costs!! I am fighting with them now for a new pump head ...

I'm surprised no one has commented on the air delivery specs. The numbers on that used IR are what I would consider the absolute minimum for air delivery to run any kind of rotary air tool. Double that would really be better... I have a 5HP IR that delivers a touch over 18CFM at 90, and it will still run constantly when i'm using a die grinder or air sander for an extended period of time. Now, I'm using el-cheapo harbor freight versions of these tools, and their air consumption is through the ceiling, but I had a choice to make: get a good compressor and a dozen cheap die grinders for $10 each (who wants to keep changing bits all the time), or get a bunch of quality die grinders for $100 each and have to blow in them to get them to spin because I spent my compressor budget :)

Anyway, if all you plan to do is use an impact wrench that IR will be OK. if you plan to use high-RPM rotary tools, I would look for something with better air delivery numbers, even if you have to pay double for it.

Another note on IR compressors, at least newer ones--they are quality units, relatively inexpensive, but they are LOUD. Not loud like a cheap oil-less compressor, but loud nonetheless. If I had to do it again, I would have spent a few hundred more for a quincy or an eaton with similar air delivery specs.