This thread could also be called "what is the purpose of the air box that is missing from my truck and how necessary is it for me to find a replacement?"

You are missing a muffler and an air duct connecting the air filter housing to an air inlet besides the radiator. I found that without a connection between the air filter housing and the air inlet, the engine is much louder. Using a bendable aluminum air duct from home depot instead of the apparently restrictive muffler, it isn't so loud anymore. But don't get one of those, they are too easy to crush, so something else is needed.

Someone messed with the wiring.

The air box is also a water seperator. I have removed it from both of my 6.2's. I have also cut another hole in the filter housing to improve air flow. it's not necssary to have the box there. I agree with lee, you notice more engine noise without the airbox. I just turn up the radio a bit to compensate :)

Dryer vent works well, I gutted mine and just slipped the hose inside. Shut up the drone.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/Diesel%20van%20stuff/CanonCamerapics-workcamera027.jpg

I have removed it from both of my 6.2's. I have also cut another hole in the filter housing to improve air flow.

The disadvantage with that is that the engine is drawing the hot air from under the hood. I'm not sure what to do, go without the air ducting and drill some more holes into the air cleaner housing or keep some kind of ducting. But the ducting takes up a lot of space I might have better use for.

I have removed it from both of my 6.2's. I have also cut another hole in the filter housing to improve air flow.

The disadvantage with that is that the engine is drawing the hot air from under the hood. I'm not sure what to do, go without the air ducting and drill some more holes into the air cleaner housing or keep some kind of ducting. But the ducting takes up a lot of space I might have good use for.

BTW, stevemedcroft, if you go without the air ducting, it may be a good idea to take off the muffler-bracket because it can rattle.

The disadvantage with that is that the engine is drawing the hot air from under the hood. I'm not sure what to do, go without the air ducting and drill some more holes into the air cleaner housing or keep some kind of ducting. But the ducting takes up a lot of space I might have good use for.
.

Didn't really think about that. it's been so flicking cold I haven't really been thinking bout keeping things cool, just ways to warm it up. I don't know if it's in my head, but my K5 seems to have a bit more kick with the extra holes in the filter hsg. Could be the new IP I put in too:rolleyes:

I pulled the air box out to make room for my WVO stuff. I was trying to get a tank in the mtr compartment, but no luck. I wound up putting the tank in the back, kida takes up a lot of room in my K5 :(

The water is kept out mainly by the plastic "thing" mounted next to the radiator. The muffler really helps quiet the engine. It seems quieter with the muffler than with the dryer ducting although it is quieter with that than with nothing at all. You'll notice if you install some sort of ducting or muffler is that any leaks in the air intake make really funny noises...

Cold air is important. You'll notice if you look at a dyno chart that horsepower really takes a dive when intake air temps go up...

When I first put the engine in my truck, I did away with the air muffler and just had a hose going to the inside fender well.

It didn't take long to get tired of the air drone.

This was probably more pronounced in my old truck as the firewall insulation isn't as good as the newer trucks.

I went back to the air muffler and I'm much happier with it. .. Ray

mine had it removed when i got it...got used to the noise and if i did away with it...i think i'd feel a part of me was missing lol

There are actually 2 different styles of " mufflers " . The other one is more of an aluminum can with a vacuator ( rubber cap ) at the bottom that has a bracket the bolts to the fender well . The intake is the same , thru the radiator support . Got 2 of them from 3500 GMC CC diesel , of course .

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h125/CitizenCCW/Truck/100_0889.jpg
Nice! :D

):h

I didn't even see that the first time around...

Like I said, someone messed with with wiring :)

There's more of that kind of b/s work on the other side of the engine compartment. I have it in my mind that I'd like to buy two new batteries and re-dress the wiring. Anyone have a good shot of how the harnesses and battery cables should be routed?

Basically, the batteries are connected in parallel, usually by a wire going across the radiator from one to the other, positive terminals. Wires from the negative terminals go to the block. The passenger side battery is connected to the alternator and to the starter.

It may be a good idea to connect the negative wires on the block to each other as well and to run a negative wire to somewhere near the starter as well. The alternator is grounded via its housing, so having a negative connection close to the alternator is a good idea, too.

Use shoes on the ends of the wires and decent battery clamps on top-post batteries to ensure good connections. Use star washers on ground connections. Use wires with a large diameter and don't connect them to thin things like the muffler bracket.

There should be fusible links on some wires, like between alternator and battery, battery and starter, battery and glow plug main supply.

COLD AIR,

on that note, is very important. I notice the difference on the road on a 30 degree day, as opposed to summer. When it started getting cold here this winter, i was really taken back by the difference. My Sub doesn't like warm weather.... at least it doesn't overheat.

I'm using aluminum dryerducting. It works for now.

The wiring I see in that photo is all grounds. I'd cut them clean, strip them, crimp (make sure the crimp is tight) new terminals on, and connect to the alternator mounting bracket. Alternatively you could replace the cable, which is probably a good idea because not too many people have the equipment to make a crimp that is solid on a wire that big. Bottom line just run the ground from that battery to the alternator bracket, the ground from the other battery runs to the front intake mounting bolt.

You don't need a ground direct to the starter, if you do you really need to look at your starter mount. You should have a ground strap from the engine to the body and one from the engine to the frame however.