The owner's manual is very specific on the procedure for checking the transmission fluid level cold. It also says the cold check is just to make sure it's safe to run it long enough to do a hot check. A hot check is the only accurate measure. Then the hot check procedure is very vague. It doesn't specify if the engine is running or the position of the gearshift. Can someone provide a more detailed hot check procedure? Thanks. <!--IBF.ATTACHMENT_283307-->

trans/engine at operating temp, in park, level ground

Engine running? Shift to reverse and drive before Park like the cold check? Thanks.

dmaxalliTech,

I found the procedure in a similar thread. I should have searched more to start with. Thanks for your help.

:d

Yes. Make sure your tanny temp is between 160 and 200 degrees for the normal check

Yes. Make sure your tanny temp is between 160 and 200 degrees for the normal check
You will not see 160-200 unless you are working the Ally. Check fluid at normal engine operating temps. You do NOT want the level at the top mark,
mike

Mike,
What kind of problems are created -at or above- the full hot level?

Durasky
When fluid level is too high it can cause planetary gears to be partialy submerged in fluid which causes cavitation (churning of fluid causing bubbles). When this happens the fluid no longer lubricates properly because it is partialy air.
mike

Thanks Mike,

I understand what you're talking about with cavitation and premature wear.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/rockon.gif

Can it also effect how the Alli downshifts? Posted before about downshifts in normal mode being similar to tow/haul mode. You advised to have tap cells reset, I've had that done with a tech II and changed the spin-on at the same time. Fluid level since SC was installed has been a little above full hot(at the most 1/4") corrected this to the top line when changing the spin on. I've driven the truck approx 500 miles all in city driving since then, enough I would think to get it through the re-learn process. The upshifts have settled down and shifts as expected, but the downshifts are hard, abrupt and irregular still. Fairly new SCIII --7K now, 1st 4k miles everything was ok, last 2-3k been having the downshift problems. 305/70R16 since new--66k now. dealer says this is the problem, I don't buy this cause it shifted fine for over 50k on stock trans. Do you think it's related to a fluid problem or would a re-flash on the TCM help this? 02 never been re-flashed

Durasky
I will bet that whoever cleared your TAP cells, cleared all of them at once. That rarely works. You have to clear them one at a time to do it right. You probably still have a couple in slow learn and they could take forever to relearn on their own.

Mike,

Hmmmm! I have no idea how they were done "all at once or individually"?
Honestly didn't know there was a difference---so I didn't ask or request it.

I can tell you how they will be done this weekend--Individually... I'll have them re-set again

My only question is what changed? I know for a fact that the first 4k the trans shifted perfect after the SC install and initial relearn, this downshift problem has only shown up the last 2-3K, only other problem was the overfill on fluid.

I appreciate your help, I'm kinda like the Alli--still in the learn
Thanks again